/ NEW ARTICLE: Exclusive Interview: James Pearson

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UKC Articles - on 29 Nov 2010
James relaxing on a Barcelona Rooftop, 4 kbJames Pearson - one of Britain's brightest climbing stars recently relocated to Innsbruck in Austria.

Whilst there he has been training hard. His climbing focus has changed and he has started a new phase of his life.

UKC Editor catches up with him and discovers what he's been up to and what he has planned for the future.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3118

Tom Last - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks good interview, wondered why he'd dropped off of the radar. Good on him for getting stuck in.
Morgan Woods - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Excellent article, good to see the pros struggle with motivation too. And what a climbing CV!


I mean (hithertoo under the radar) Caroline.
Oli - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

From the article, it can be read that James onsighted or flashed one of 8c's? Is this correct, as if so surely that's one of the best British performances on bolts.
Adam Lincoln - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to Oli:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> From the article, it can be read that James onsighted or flashed one of 8c's? Is this correct, as if so surely that's one of the best British performances on bolts.

First go doesn't mean flashed/onsighted.

In reply to UKC Articles: Interesting article. "French fag" seems to be unnecessarily quick way to be rude to both French and gay people though. I have a gay climbing partner and his technique is crap. He clearly isn't French enough! :-)
JLS on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to Oli:

>"First go"

For "First go" read "First proper go i.e. redpoint attempt". Which doesn't count dogging sessions while he worked the sequence.
Ramon Marin - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Inspiring stuff, way to go James! Have a good one in Europe
James Oswald - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great interview. Thank you James and UKC. :)
I don't think it's a good comparison comparing Austria's quality of life with the quality of life in the UK though if you only refer to crime in Mosside and not the rest of the UK.
James
PeteH - on 29 Nov 2010
Boo! Enough of the Moss Side bashing! I think it's a great place to live!

Pete.
JDal - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
> Great interview. Thank you James and UKC. :)
> I don't think it's a good comparison comparing Austria's quality of life with the quality of life in the UK though if you only refer to crime in Mosside and not the rest of the UK.
> James

That's what I thought, a typical expat comment. I manage to walk around Morpeth all hours without any hassle, and used to do so in Newcastle, although it was a bit iffy on Elswick Road....

If he'd restricted himself to "the climbing's better", then fair enough. I'm sure it is.
The Pylon King on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

It's a hard life!
Brendan - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to JDal:

So gay people, French people, and people from Mosside. Anyone else offended? ;-)
Quarryboy - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

What are the dub tracks played in the vid? they sound familiar
Adam Lincoln - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to Quarryboy:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> What are the dub tracks played in the vid? they sound familiar

First one is As we enter - Damian Marley/Nas
Second is nah mean, same artists
Quarryboy - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Thank you :)
Morgan Woods - on 29 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: I would also be interested to know if James has any trad aspirations in Europe or if he's just sticking to bouldering and sports climbing? He did mention alpine stuff so would be curious if he'll be drawing on his trad pedegree at some stage?
Ackbar - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to JDal: the quality of life for regular working class people is better in Austria than in England. The divsion of wealth is much fairer. And about the crime/violence; ask yourself this. Have you ever seen a fight in England? Can you remember how many fights you've ever seen in you life? The average Austrian (from my experience) has never seen a fight before.

Anyway, nice article (except for the homophobic bit. that was unacceptable for and should have been picked up on editing.)
In reply to Quarryboy:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> What are the dub tracks played in the vid? they sound familiar

Familiar as in another vid spoilt by awful music?


Chris
DWilliamson - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to Ackbar:

Why should "French fag" have been edited out if James Pearson said it - isn't an interview supposed to give a candid insight into the interviewee? What would you have liked it replaced with?

Interesting read in any case.
JDal - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to Ackbar:
> .. The divsion of wealth is much fairer. And about the crime/violence; ask yourself this. Have you ever seen a fight in England? Can you remember how many fights you've ever seen in you life? The average Austrian (from my experience) has never seen a fight before....
This is verring off topic. Ask myself? You seem to think you know me. For the record, except on telly and schoolboys stuff in the playground, none. And I was brought up in inner city Newcastle and worked on the buses in Glasgow. I do avoid the city centre at 2:00am though.

A quick google on "Austrian Violence" makes it look like they do their fighting in the home.
Michael Gordon - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to DWilliamson:
> (In reply to Ackbar)
>
> Why should "French fag" have been edited out if James Pearson said it
>
>

To be fair he was also referring to himself!

MHutch - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to JDal:
> (In reply to Ackbar)
> [...]
>
>
> A quick google on "Austrian Violence" makes it look like they do their fighting in the home.

A quick google on 'Austrian cellar' gives you an idea of the potential for high-grade training facilities, so it's not all bad.
mark_wellin - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to MHutch:

did you mean to reference joseph fritzl?
Alun - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to JDal:
> That's what I thought, a typical expat comment. I manage to walk around Morpeth all hours without any hassle, and used to do so in Newcastle, although it was a bit iffy on Elswick Road....

I agree that it is indeed a 'typical expat comment', but that doesn't make it less valid. He's obviously happier since he's moved, and good for him.

He does have a point though - I've been to Mosside, and I've been to Innsbruck. Given the choice of living in either, I wouldn't have to think too hard before choosing Innsbruck!
shark - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to Alun: I've been to Mosside, and I've been to Innsbruck


Have you ever been to me ?
Ackbar - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to JDal: That's a pretty angry answer for a pacifist ;-) I really find it hard to believe that you never seen a fight in all your time in Newcastle and Glasgow but I'll take your word for it. But the schoolboy stuff you talk about, well that is pretty rare as well in Austria.

I'm not saying that everything is perfect in Austria. Far from it. There are many things in England which are much much better in England. For example, there is far less socially exceptable racism and homophobia in England. But to think that quality of life is superior in England compared to the rest of Europe is seriously deluded.

With regards to the homophobic comment, I'm 100% sure that no offence was meant, but if you replace that word with a common racist word, do you think it would have be publishable?
rgd1977 - on 30 Nov 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to Quarryboy)
> [...]
>
> Familiar as in another vid spoilt by awful music?
>
>
> Chris

Ha, exactly! I had to turn it off as soon as I heard it, I cant watch anything with that crap over the top of it!
In reply to UKC Articles:
A big thank you goes to Dave Simmonite for this video and several of the photographs that accompany this article.

I forgot to credit Dave as the videographer - sorry Dave.

And thanks again to James for the interview.

Cheers guys!

Jack

bull2010face - on 05 Dec 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

What's that about a body?
ads.ukclimbing.com

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