/ NEWS: SIBL Round 2 Evolution Climbing Centre

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UKC News - on 10 Dec 2010
SIBL Round 2  Evolution Climbing Centre, 3 kbThe second round of this year's Southern Indoor Bouldering League (SIBL) took place on the 28th November at Evolution Climbing Centre and was attended by over 140 competitors.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=59323
mark_wellin - on 10 Dec 2010
In reply to UKC News:

I love Sibl and this is he first time I've been to the evolution round. It will be that last as well.
Compared to the other rounds (from other years too) it was poop. I don't know why they used this wall. Its too small for the amount of people, too cold for a winter league and the old, polished feature Walls do nothing for the route setting. They did well with what they got, but it still isn't up to scratch with the rest of the rounds. I feel like I wasted my money on this ones.

Mark
mloskot - on 10 Dec 2010
In reply to mark_wellin: The travelling SIBL gives a chance to both small and big climbing centres == small and big climbing communities and I think it's good. Take it easy. It's not F1 but open competition to have some fun.
mark_wellin - on 10 Dec 2010
In reply to mloskot:

i understand that mate. and as i said i have a great time and support sibl by paying to compete. just now i know not to bother with this round, as in my view its crap compared to the other rounds.

why should i have sympathy because they 'are giving a small wall a go'? its not like they are doing it out of the kindness of their hearts is it? they get paid! you should get what you pay for. and in my opinion it was sub standard.
especially as we had to travel quite far to do it.

regardless, just saying that if you were going to pick one round to do, it shouldn't be this one (unless you live right next to it, which you wouldn't cos its in the middle of nowhere)
rmoffat - on 10 Dec 2010
In reply to UKC News: why wasnt the first round covered by the 'production team'? and im sure there is...no no...in fact i know there are better climbing walls available....such as anyones home woody!
archiecb - on 11 Dec 2010
In reply to rmoffat: It wasnt covered by 'the production team' because Ed - who is filming it was not in the country. I believe the rest of the rounds will be filmed assuming Ed can get to them all.

I would like to pitch in and say I was actually a little disappointed in the setting. I cant blame it for my performance but:
-There were a series of incredibly long reaches which any shorties had a hard time doing.
-The hardest problem on the woody had an incredibly easy to reach bonus hold on it which did nothing to separate the top contenders.
-one of the other bonus holds was definitely not on one of the hardest 5 problems and again, easy to get to.

I know it isnt the easiest thing in the world to set problems for the whole range of SIBL contenders and the venue probably didnt help, but I think a better job could have been done...

That said, I still had a good time. Looking forward to Castle round now, better head to bed.
mark_wellin - on 11 Dec 2010
In reply to archiecb: I agree. I think the problem for the long reaches was that the wall was too small to set a mens and womens circuit. So they has to dothe same problems which meant the girls found alot of them really stretchy/ campus problems.

It's easy to say they did he best they could. But at the end of the day we paid for the setting and venue so we can expect a certain level. This wasn't it.

I garurantee the castle round today will be better tho! Bring it on!
MWhaley on 11 Dec 2010
> I garurantee the castle round today will be better tho! Bring it on!
The Castle was a lot better today, more space, better temperature and great problems

archiecb - on 11 Dec 2010
In reply to MWhaley: I'd like to second your comment.

I thought the setting was great (perhaps a tad hard?)
Loved the holdset that was used and interesting problems.

There was some confusion regarding the bonus holds though which wasnt great, and the numbers of problems didnt seem to follow any immediate plan...not sure if I missed something, but this made finding your way around quite confusing.
mark_wellin - on 12 Dec 2010
In reply to archiecb:

i thought the castle round was wicked! had an awesome time (and i told sam this... i dont always moan).

the holds were cool (if painful cos thery were new... i have no skin left) and the setting was awesome.

yeah, i didnt understand the bonuses, but i wasnt competing for top spots so it didnt really matter.

and it was a VERY hard round!
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mloskot - on 13 Dec 2010
In reply to mark_wellin: point taken

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