UKC

Well been given some money for some new tools and can't decide which one's to go for! I've currently got Grivel's Matrix Light tools with a horn and trigger attached which work really well but I keep smacking my knuckles and after trying my friends Vipers I fancy an upgrade! I currently climb IV/V and looking to progress to the higher grades and don't intend to replace my old tools (ie looking for a second set). And I can't decide between Vipers, Reactors or the new Fusions.

I really like the feel of the Vipers but I fancy a full leash-less tool, so I was looking at the new fusions. But i don't know if they will be to technical for me, hence thinking of the Reactors. So what are peoples opinions of these, and which one's do you think would be best?

In reply to gt4_joe:

I'm currently using Reactors.

Pros:

Nice chunky handle is good for gloved hands and knuckle clearance (you should ensure you wrist flick anyway - swinging an axe seems obvious but alot of people forget this), the heads take hammer, adze, micro hammer and blanking plate which extends their use to 'all mountain'. Spike at bottom of the handle for plungers, it also has a hole for spring leashes.

Cons:

The shaft isn't as curved as a Quark or similar which would be better for climbing low graded or very featured ice.

But all-in-all, the Reactor is a good, solid all-round tool.

I think Fusions would be very nice, although not used, as would the new Nomics if they were problem free!

In reply to gt4_joe: I have been using the new fusions this year in the alps and think they are great, i find they climb best if its verticle or steeper but have taken them on long alpine routes and you can just swing from the upper grip when its not steep. I had vipers before these though and the only thing they didnt do as well was dry tool so if you dont plan on overhanging rock they are great axes and cheaper. Shame about the new nomics because they are great too.

Ben

In reply to gt4_joe: sorry yo sort of hijack the thread but does anyone have opinions on the grivel Xmonster axes as a all round axe? im looking for my first pair of axes and its out of the grivels or DMM fly's but i want to progress to the harder climbs and dont want to buy a second pair. cheers and again sorry to hijack the thread but i felt a new topic wasnt necessary.

In reply to Ben Briggs: Cheers for the replies, still undecided. I'm after doing more mixed routes but do plan to go abroad and do some continental ice of that helps. The thing that puts me off the reactors is the fact the pick angle isn't as great as the other two, and the fact I really like the hydro-formed axes. But I feel the Vipers may make my old tools redundant and the fusions are to technical for me.

In reply to al123:

The xmonster and fly are two very different axes, for your first pair the xmonsters are a very technical axe and would not be good for general mountainering. They are best for steep ice and mixed/dry tooling. The fly is a good axe but not very technical if you want to progress through the grades. If you have seen the xmonsters cheap and that is why you mention them over other technical axes it is worth considering the pick is not replacible so when it wears out you will need to buy new axes rather than just replace the pick.

Something inbetween might be best such as the petzle quark or dmm reble. They are both good alround axes and more technical than the fly.

In reply to gt4_joe: The vipers will probably make you old tools redundant, the fusions may be a bit over the top for grade IV/V but shouldnt cause you and problems and will make steep stuff feel easier and maby incourage you to push your grade. I dont climb very hard but feel like i could get up even the most desperate things now!

In reply to Ben Briggs:

That's wrong, [example: http://tinyurl.com/xmonster ] though the rest of your post basically confirms a conclusion I reached myself whilst looking at getting my first set of axes.

In reply to KellyKettle: Got that one way wrong then! Maby it was the original monsters.. Not sure. Still not really a good first axe though.

In reply to KellyKettle: Just looked into it and on the first runs the screws were rounded so needed grinding off to replace the picks.

In reply to Ben Briggs: That sounds familiar, sounds bloody awkward (though i have a friend who's always looking for an excuse to use powertools, would suit him down to the ground).

In reply to KellyKettle: I don't like the monster picks on my axes, i find they get blunt to often.

In reply to gt4_joe: If you are thinking about the fusion don't worry. Get them or the Nomics and be happy, obviously nomics need a short round trip to lyon equipment before being good to go but should not take more than a week or so to get sorted plus you get a fresh set for next winter. They make life so much easier, and work perfectly fine even if it is grade I or II gully climbing or grade V ice. Obvious thing to bear in mind, it is hard to stomp the entire axe into snow but they plunge perfectly fine regardless of what kind of snow it is is, why do you want half your axe to disappear anyway, they are way too short for that.

Nomics are supposedly slightly better on ice and fusions slightly better on mixed. Don't disregard the new nomic just because of the griprest issue. Considerinng you have a pair of straightish it makes most sense to me to go the whole way and get nomics/fusions

In reply to gt4_joe: Out of curiosity, what are people's opinions of the Ergo?

In reply to Hannes: The thing thats put me off them is the technical ability of them (don't want to be seen as too much of a punter on the hill!), also the lack of an adze.

In reply to gt4_joe: Decided to go with Fusions, preferred them over the Reactors when in the shop and Vipers would of made my old tools redundant. Very pleased with them and thanks to the guys in the epic centre for there help too.