UKC

In order to write my dissertation for university i am looking for information from climbers who believe there are psychological factors that could effect their performance whilst sport climbing indoors.

SO


I am asking for some advice on what people think effects their climbing performance the most?

- Low Motivation
- Over/Under Arousal (this is how psyched up you get naturally)
-Low anxiety (where climber feel lethargic and under aroused when about to climb and dont get the "buzz")
-self confidence
-focusing attention
-High Anxiety
or indeed any other factors you may think effects performance

I would like to reiterate that this is not a post asking for research bunnies, im just after some initial information.

thanks in advance
tim

In reply to tim123487: There are so many environmental factors to firstly consider... like music and temperature, time of day, crowding. These will have a masive impact on how someone climbs. This is from my observations working at a wall many moons ago.
I would suggest looking at some of the fantastic training literature on offer to see what is done to improve technique and can therefore be seen as direct affecting factors on performance.


ps. People climb like machines to Wagner (not the X-factor "sex-pest" the composer)

In reply to tim123487:

Focus, of the list you put out. The others may affect it, anxiety, self confidence etc, but it's the ability to focus on the needed moves of the route this is most important.

In reply to tim123487:

Sleep

In reply to tim123487:

I don't think people would be able to objectively identify and differentiate between the feelings in your list and their own experiences. In addition most of these items are not exclusive of each other and can lead rise to another in a manner that you can not decisively attribute one as the root.

Perhaps a cleverly devised questionnaire would be more appropriate/objective rather than subjective comments which are sure to ensue. That way at least you will be able to try and categorize people into groups by their experiences and draw common parallels within these groups.

In reply to tim123487:

Things that positively impact on my performance:
*Physical:
Good fitness
Good skin
Warmed up
Well fed and hydrated
*Mental:
Desire to achieve something - a project I've invested in
Feeling well
Well rested
Feeling fit - often it's mostly in my head
Utterly reliable, proven partner
Recent success

Things that negatively impact on my performance:
*Physical:
Tiredness
Pain
Too hot
Bad skin
Poor fitness
Poor belaying
Dehydration and poor nutrition
*Mental:
Feeling tired
Feeling frustrated
Stress
Unproven partner
Recent failure
Hunger

In reply to tim123487:

Here's one free bit of advice. The word you're after is "affects", not "effects". Make sure you get it right on your dissertation.

In reply to tim123487:

I'm quite happy to fail and lower off if no-one is watching.

In reply to tim123487: the presence of role models.. eg if there is a really good climber present it motivates you

In reply to tim123487: At my local wall the lights are really bright and inefficient, so when you're nearing the top you're sweating buckets!

BR

In reply to tim123487:

How good my tactics are:
-When best to clip
-Finding the best rest
-How long to rest for
-Energy conserving efficient climbing/footwork
-When to go for it

I guess you could call all this experience

In reply to tim123487:

I have always found that my biggest psychological crux in climbing is fear. Fear leads to anger. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering.

Lastly in answer to your original question. This is not the thread you are looking for.

In reply to tim123487: thanks for the responses so far
in answer to most of you im asking for a general idea of what you think you biggest psychological drawback is such as fear (thankyou)
i cmpletely understand theyre all linked and working on one cant help others and that its effected by the environment - its my degree!
to explain further think of it like this:
pick eight things that effect your performance regardless of environment or other things then give each a score out of ten for how you are at that skill for example
confidence - 8
fear - 9 (you get scared easily)
Motivation - 7
etc

the worst score is the skill that needs working on

In reply to tim123487:

Overcrowding -when there is little space in a bouldering area for example.

pressure- in a climbing competition this has had positive and negative effects.

In reply to Quarryboy: so pressure would actually boil down to two areas of the topic:
arousal
anxiety

you need a balance in order to perform effectively. with low anxiety you may not reach your optimum arousal level for performance..
thanks

In reply to tim123487: fnarr.

In reply to tim123487: ey?

In reply to tim123487:

Things that most affect my performance at an indoor wall :

1. Partner - How serious about climbing they are & (less so) How well I know them; also massive psychological affects due to personality, style, approach etc
2. Fear of falling
3. Regularity of training (lethargy & lack of motivation from too little or too much)
4. Time of day (AM & early aft being best)

Motivation is an overall killer of any performance for me, but that can occur suddenly (due to partner effects, personal factors on the mind, recent eating, temperature or something)
If i'm not motivated beforehand, I wouldn't be at the wall!

In reply to Robertostallioni: be quiet at the back of the class please. <made me smirk>