UKC

THE LOWDOWN: First Female Ascent by Alex Puccio at Hueco

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Alex Puccio, 3 kbAlex Puccio, Hueco Tanks, El techo de los tres b

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=59783
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
To much talking in code.. I didnt understand a word of that..

banned profile 74 11 Jan 2011
In reply to El3ctroFuzz: wow,what an in depth report
 stewieatb 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Cheers Fred.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Very interesting video. The second guy seemed to be virtually on-sighting it.

jcm
 Dan_Carroll 12 Jan 2011
In reply to:

what is wrong with you guys? If you're not interested in the lowdown news then why bother reading and commenting on it?

that could possibly the worst soundtrack to a climbing film I have seen yet.
In reply to Dan_Carroll: Nothing wrong me actually regarding this topic.. I love the Lowdown.. I didnt complain about the Lowdown. Read before you comment nub. I was merely saying that i couldnt understand what bjorn was saying, it seems to have been written backwards and forwards. I didnt understand the first few lines and the last few lines.
In reply to El3ctroFuzz:
"After a few days plagued by of illness and bad skin, Americ"

Plagued by of?

"El Techo De Los Tres b, 8A, at Hueco Tanks, Texas. This is her twelfth 8A boulder problem in the last twelve months.

El Techo... was originally given 8C, but first a far better sequence was discovered and then it broke. Surprisingly, this has only made it better."

I dont understand. So El Techo is 8a. But first was 8c, then a hold broke, so now its 8a? Its written backwards :/

originally it was titles "FFA" which to me meant First FREE ascent.

Dan_Caroll pushed me to that early morning rant.

Im very sorry everyone.
In reply to El3ctroFuzz: Sorry about the "by of" and code! In bouldering FFA means First Female Ascent as aidclimbing isn't that common
It was given 8C, then a better sequence was found and then it broke. Now it's 8A. Yes, the break made it easier.
I hope this has made things clearer, but I'm not sure
 Dan_Carroll 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

It was perfectly clear in the first place Björn.

oh and it's Carroll with 2 r's, cheers.

 Blue Straggler 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

What broke? The route itself (i.e. some rock)? If so, was the bit that broke part of the "better sequence" or of the original route?

That bit's still a bit unclear to me - sorry! And thanks
 Adam Lincoln 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Blue Straggler:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC)
>
> What broke? The route itself (i.e. some rock)? If so, was the bit that broke part of the "better sequence" or of the original route?

A hold got better.

 eschaton 13 Jan 2011
In reply to Adam Lincoln: poor thing. what was it suffering from?
 Robert Durran 13 Jan 2011
In reply to Dan_Carroll:
> what is wrong with you guys? If you're not interested in the lowdown news then why bother reading and commenting on it?

This is very unfair. I am commenting now because I am in fact interested in the Lowdown news but find it consistently irritating because it fails so often to be informative in any meaningful way.

This is a UK website and most of the Lowdown news is about foreign climbers on foreign crags and boulders of which I (and I suspect many other UKC users) often have very kittle knowledge. A report which says hardly any more than "climber A sent route B on crag C" tells me very little indeed when I have never heard of A,B and C. It is simply lazy reporting. Bjorn needs to give far more background and context if we are to become educated about the climbers, climbs and climbing scenes on which he is reporting. The style of his reports and the language he uses frequently give the impression that he is addressing a few cliquey insiders who are already in the know.

The Lowdown could be playing an excellent role on UKC in educating interested but uninformed British climbers about activities beyond these shores, but it frustratingly fails to do so effectively.



banned profile 74 13 Jan 2011
In reply to Dan_Carroll:
> In reply to:
>
> what is wrong with you guys? If you're not interested in the lowdown news then why bother reading and commenting on it?
>
> that could possibly the worst soundtrack to a climbing film I have seen yet.


when i commented there was no video link just a few words and a picture of puccio which seemed a bit too little to constitute news

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