/ NEW ARTICLE: GGG...Gogarth! An article by Stevie Haston

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UKC Articles - on 11 Jan 2011
Stevie Haston abseiling in to North Stack Wall, Gogarth, 4 kbIn his latest article on UKC, Stevie Haston tells tales of Gogarth, that wonderful arena of terror on Anglesey, North Wales.

"Of course, it was very different for the early pioneers, with their antiquated racks of inadequate gear. The route that bears the crag's name, Gogarth, was so loose it was likened to a jigsaw of sabres, literally a field of rock, covered in hanging spikes and by all accounts not that enjoyable for many years. The route and its low grade hide the true dangers of the early ascents, and many of the easier routes have similar ghastly histories..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3319

Al Evans on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Like Stevie this remains my favourite UK crag, We were lucky enough to get involved in developing new routes there before such things became impossible for ordinary mortals just a few years later, but of all my new routes the ones I treasure most are the stuff we did at Gogarth.
Tyler - on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Do you have any more info on the new route he talks about?
Dave Swarbrick on 11 Jan 2011 - 16-220-105-81.static.virginmedia.com
In reply to UKC Articles: Well done Steve, lovely article summing up all that is great about Gogarth. Time for you to write a book between sets of pullups I think
Al Evans on 11 Jan 2011
Tyler - on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Al Evans:

Interesting link that Al, thanks. I don't know who he is but that Barry Clark is certainly, err, prolific.
In reply to UKC Articles:

Wouldn't it be great if there was a follow up to Alun Hughes' film 'Gogarth'? That was an inspirational film..."Gogarth... the lead role in this 'real life' drama, slips into darkness, strangely inscrutable".

Did the Tesserat ever get climbed I wonder?

My vote for the best route on the best crag in Britain would go to Conan the Librarian. Definitely one of the highlights of 20 odd years of climbing, traversing that back wall of Wen Zawn. Here's JD on the first ascent:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=153826
Al Evans on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Tyler:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> Interesting link that Al, thanks. I don't know who he is but that Barry Clark is certainly, err, prolific.

I think a thing to be born in mind is this statement on the site
"Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk"

Al Evans on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe: Thanks for the link to that picture Tom, brilliant.
Simon Caldwell - on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Tyler:
> I don't know who he is but that Barry Clark is certainly, err, prolific.

He also features prominently in the new route lists for the Lake District and Yorkshire limestone, I've climbed several and quality control doesn't seem to be high on his priority list!

Al Evans on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Toreador:
> (In reply to Tyler)
> [...]
>
> He also features prominently in the new route lists for the Lake District and Yorkshire limestone, I've climbed several and quality control doesn't seem to be high on his priority list!

That is interesting, a lot of his new routes seem to have been climbed solo too, anybody know Barry Clark? Sorry to hijack the thread.
PeakDJ on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Al Evans:

I think I met him once at the CC hut in the pass...lives up in Ingleton or somewhere like that.
PeakDJ on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article - I got the Gogarth bug a couple of years ago and things like the Moon, Red Wall, DOWH, Rat Race etc rank amongst the most memorable climbing experiences I've had. What a crag!
jezb1 - on 11 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Love this line:

"Any starred route is better than the 3-star routes in the Peak"
danm - on 12 Jan 2011
In reply to jezb1:

Well it wouldn't be Stevie if there wasn't something said to wind someone up! I've had some magical experiences climbing at Gogarth, but also climbed some real choss. Most stupid thing I've ever done in climbing was getting snowed off Central Park, and abbing off the remaining rusty stub of a peg. Just thinking about it now makes me shudder.
old skool on 13 Jan 2011
In reply to Tyler:
7c+/8a or about E8, 6c in old money, I believe.
clochette - on 14 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Ramble ramble... reminds me why I cancelled On The Edge.

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