UKC

UKC Fit Club bicentenary week

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 AJM 16 Jan 2011
Off to the wall now so stats will be up later.

In the meantime, feel free to start your weekly updates, reminiscing etc......
 Keendan 16 Jan 2011
In reply to AJM:

M Gentle fingery bouldering. Tried pull ups which felt easier after recent training.
T Interval running and close press ups. 44/2min
W Bouldering competition Leeds
T 5 min jog and some pressups
F Bouldering competition Nottingham
S The Works bouldering
S wide press ups 50/2min

STG:
60 close press ups/2min
1.5mile/8:40
77sit ups/2min

LTG:
One arm pull up
Bigger chest
72 Close press ups/2min
 Mi|es 16 Jan 2011
In reply to AJM: The mention of bicentenary reminded me I've been posting on here for almost a year now. Thanks to Biscuit, AJM etc for keeping this thread running, it definitely helps to write about my climbing

Monday: Short bouldering session to try to sort out my skin and get some strength back. Was mainly just repeating overhanging problems.
Tuesday: Another bouldering session (making use of an hour gap between lectures), much the same as Monday.
Wednesday; Some leading up to 6c. I found I was alot more out of breath after climbing a route than I can remember but otherwise it was a fairly successful session.
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Was a bit hungover. A variety of leading stuff but only up to 6b+ which I managed to fall off, however, despite taking quite a big fall I found I wasn't bothered by it at all which I think could be a good thing. Also did a few laps on a 6a+ at the end which felt pretty good so I may try to organise a proper endurance session sometime this week. Noticed a minor twinge of an old pulley injury at the end of the session but it was ok by Saturday.
Saturday: No climbing but I felt pretty energetic (I think I was just excited because I was going out) so I did a few pushups and then figured I should try doing the plank (never tried it before) to monitor core strength improvements. I managed to hold it for 3:16 before I wanted a rest so that's the time to beat for the next time.
Sunday: Tired and achey from last night so I doubt I'll do anything.

STG: Continue to regain fitness and hopefully be properly back on form within 2 weeks. Once back on form start training for leading comp (19/2), specifically onsighting (currently leaving 3 7a's until I feel confident I can get the onsights). Oh and be careful about the old finger injury (stick to front 2 for pockets etc).
MTG: Yellow '7c' by 19/3, RP a 7a at Cheddar, get fit for Spain in the hope of crushing a few routes in the 7s.
LTG: As ever, stay healthy and avoid injury. (Tempted to say 8a by July 2012 but I'm not thinking that far ahead yet really).
 jamesg85 16 Jan 2011
In reply to AJM: Hi, thanks, second week of posting here, first week of climbing in new year

Monday: bouldering at Durham climbing centre, 1h30 mins, did a few v4s and v5s, 1 v6
Tuesday: bouldering at climb newcastle for first time, brilliant centre, tried white circuit 6a plus to 7a plus, very enjoyable
wednesday: routes at rock antics, 2 6c's 1 onsight and fell off last move of the other one, tried a 7a but was tired and got about a 1/3 of the way, one for next week
thursday: rest, some push ups
friday: bouldering competition at climb newcastle, great atmosphere, great problems, came 41st out of 93, quite happy with that
saturday: tried tuck planches, making some progress with these, trying to get to holding them for 60 seconds
sunday: hang board session, pressups, tuck planches

I had a good week overall, feel close to completing my short term goal, a 7a lead indoors, maybe this will be the week. The highlight of the week was the bouldering competition, great fun. I didn't manage to get outdoors but couldn't find anyone who wanted to go sport climbing at houghton graveyard near Durham and a peak trip was a bit risky because of rain. Fingers crossed next weekend will bring dry weather.

Short term goal: 7a indoors
medium term goal: E3, Whatever Happened to Bob on the cowperstone
long term goal: silk, maybe one day

thanks, James
 mattrm 16 Jan 2011
In reply to AJM:

Many thanks AJM

STG - 25:45 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 - 2nds | 6/10 leads), 12st 7lbs weight TICK, Onsight 5+ (with out any dogging)
MTG - 25:30 5k, Consolidate VS (4/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight, Climb 6a
LTG - 25:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs, Climb 6b
VLTG - Lead E1, Climb 6c, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 7lbs

M - ca, co, sh
T - ca, co, sh
W - ca, co, sh and 5k run
T - Rest
F - ca, co, sh
S - 18k mtb ride, 450 asc and a 5k run
S - Rest (will rehab shoulder later on tho)

ca - calf raises
co - crunches and planks
sh - shoulder re-hab

Been a tiring week, mainly due to work I think. No real change in the weight. Not really been seriously dieting. Kept up the shoulder rehab work. Not sure if it's doing much, but going to keep it up. Upped the calf raises over the week, up to 80x3, moved on to crunches and up to 50x3 (150 total, which I'm being told is too much?). Had been planning on doing a decent long run today, but the bike ride yesterday battered me, so I just decided to wuss out today. Definitely get a 5k done tomorrow tho. Could do with doing a set of 3 5k runs this week as well. Under a month till Scotland now. Going to get some long walks in over the next few weekends, but will 'taper' for the weekend before. Spend the week beforehand sticking to a diet and doing lots of stretches and gentle exercise, make sure there are no tweaks and twinges to make things worse. I think my psyche levels are even higher than I was thinking they could be. Got my ice axes on order, should have a shiny new pair of Petzl Quarks in my hands next week. So kitwise I'm basically all ready.
OP AJM 16 Jan 2011
In reply to AJM:

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here: 
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last weeks (199) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=441126

Repeat Posters: 32
AJM
Murd - good work on the 6b+
richardh - hope the manflu has gone
grubes - bad luck - sometimes life just doesn't love you
Thickhead - solid week
chris05 - moving house is exhausting work isn't it
mattrm - 3 cliffs is a lovely place. Good work on the HS
Mark Torrance - goals=good
Eric the Red - nice one on keeping those miles up
Eagle River - I can feel your pain with the weather. I'm itching to get back to Cheddar and tick some projects off
fried - being able to do the moves is a good first step particularly given that the grade is pretty hard when compared to the stuff you've been doing before
Steve John B - hope the knee has been holding up
JimmyKay - why not indeed..... cracking result for the week, well done!
seankenny - will have Verdon info for you soon. Good work on Sunday, and on another good mileage session down the wall.
Charlie Zero - good start to the new year
leon - ramping up the volume whilst also keeping strength tip top is always going to be hard. If the volume fits with where you need to be right now I wouldn't get too hung up on it - you'll get a strength period soon and get it back.
Goonie - I've caught myself unconsciously using the odd open hand hold these days too, which is very unusual for me
IainRUK - sounds like some great weather for it, very jealous
Miles - it comes back pretty quick usually.....
Sankey - running in the dark was always more than I had the willpower for
plexiglass_nick - looks like youre rapidly establishing 7b as your new baseline level, good work! Interesting discussion on warmup strategies too.
Kevster - back in the game as soon as you get back, good stuff.
andy farnell - good solid week
petestack - good varied week
catt - sounds like a couple of good sessions
Curious Yellow - shame about the head issues, but well done on getting your 7a.
Steve Perry (Pezz) - good progress
biscuit - good week of volume, but not all easy volume either
viking - did you make the wall?
Liam M - better week this week?
ayuplass - getting a good routine that allows sufficient recovery is very important
andy - nice week

New/returning posters: 5
Daniel Heath - welcome! Are those goals the BMF test goals?
Rob Naylor - welcome back! Good to be listening to your body and not pushing too far too fast
jamesgreenfield - welcome! Shame about the cold/flu
Stone Donkey - welcome! I don't suppose you were at Chateauvert on a coached holiday in October were you?
fimm - glad to hear you seem to be mending
endless winter - welcome back!

Absentees: 1
Tony B

Busy week with lots of people coming back from Christmas or using Fit Club to assist with New Year's resolutions and the like. Since we've hit a significant milestone, I'll take the opportunity to wish everyone success with their goals over the time until the tricentenary
 Charlie_Zero 16 Jan 2011
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM.

A pretty good week overall. I had some extra free time so managed to fit in some extra bouldering. I found that by the end of the week I was doing the same problems with a lot less effort, so my technique is obviously improving.

The plan for the coming week is for two bouldering sessions, using slightly more difficult problems, and one stamina routes session.
OP AJM 16 Jan 2011
In reply to AJM:

<STG> - pre Chateauvert
  • Get a roped session and a bouldering session in per week, plus beastmaker and hopefully outdoor at weekends
  • Laps on 4x 6b+ with the only rest being lowering and retying
  • 6c+ redpoint on the pocket route at the Warehouse
  • 3 7s or some good onsights during Chateauvert

    <MTG> - before Easter
    • 10 routes at E2/7a or above
    • Include at least 2 routes from local hitlist of harder routes
    • Focus on onsight days on pumpy trad and onsight/fast redpoint days on sport, try to build up volume
    • Intervals on 6c+/7a indoors
    • V5 indoors, V4 outdoors
    • Bike odometer to 1500km - currently at 361

    <LTG>
    • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
    • E4 onsight
    • 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
    • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

    <BHAG>
    • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
    • E5 onsights
    • 8a/+ redpoint
    • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
    • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something


    M: Nothing
    T: Beastmaker. Good session, good progress - bodyweight hangs on front 2 feeling easier and am starting to build towards pullup sets on middle 2 - I can do a couple of pullups on them now, which is a big progression from a month or two back. Back 2 still feeling pretty weak - going to try and up the volume of back 3 work to assist strengthening them. Going to start building more pullup sets in as I've been very focused on the hangs of late
    W: Beastmaker session. Could feel Tuesday in my fingers so did a couple of pullup sets on the easy slopers - fairly light session
    T: Warehouse, Gloucester. 10 routes completed (2x5+, 1x6a up and down, 3 6a+, 2x 6b, 1x6b+), plus 3 failures (1 6a+, fumbled a really bad clip off a tiny crimp and pumped out, and a 6b and 6b+ at the end of the session). Could really feel the previous 2 days, but soldiered on through
    F: Resting from 3 days on
    S: Lazy day
    S: Bristol, TCA. Tried the green circuit. Most people say its quite hard compared with its predecessor. Attempted the whole circuit, managed to complete 35/43 problems, of which somewhere around 30 were flashed. Of the 8 failures, 5 were the last 5 problems I tried, which is probably a sign I should have stopped, but it was good to dig deep and keep trying, albeit unsuccessfully.

    Excellent week for me. I feel like I've made good progress on many fronts:
    • Seeing good progress with the Beastmaker sessions, the benefits of regular sessions are starting to come through
    • Keeping good volume up at the wall despite being tired from 2 days of Beastmaker sessions. Going to start stamina training and fall training soon in preparation for Chateauvert.
    • Excellent session at the wall today, one of the best I've had in the past year. Last year I was able to do maybe 25 problems on that circuit before flaking out - this time I got so much further and had a far better flash record. Feels like a real step change in my abilities there.


    I'm hoping to build on this week's good progress this week. I've got to go to Basingstoke Tuesday so am going to have a session at Reading Wall on the way home. I've also got another Warehouse session booked for Thursday. Plus, I'm being optimistic about the weather next weekend, it would be good to get a project ticked off.

    I feel battered, my shoulders are sore, my fingers ache, my fingertips are shredded - a fitting end to a great week!

    AJM
  •  Murd 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy...sounds like your going well!

    Only 3 sessions this week though all were fairly lengthy affairs. Wall session was a bit meek…or at least I was, spent a fair bit of time working a new 7a on the comp wall. Seems as hard as nails but I guess it’s supposed to! Just about every move is top of my limit but I may give this one a bit of work and see how it goes. It did knacker up the rest of the session but I can live with that. On the positive side I did take a few lobs which all helps the head game.

    M: Home bouldering. Spent a 45 mins on core and general stretching before 3 hrs of pretty hard stuff
    T: Wall (see above) 3hrs
    F: Home Bouldering, nice session 2.5 hrs
    S: 2 hours doing some route setting, will try them out tomorrow

    STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
    MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
    LTG: E # ‘s
     Sankey 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    M: Ran 4.5 miles -dark and wet, LED lenser head torch did well
    T: Boulder Matrix
    W: Boulder Works
    T: Routes Edge -pretty knackered for this session
    F:
    S: Ran 3.2 miles -was meant to be double the distance, set off too fast
    S: Routes Leeds Wall -tried some harder routes and got on the steeper wall sections, courtesy of reading 9 out of 10 climbers

    Summary: need that running mileage from somewhere...

    STG: Regular Wall sessions + Increase weekly running mileage
    MTG: Enter fell race / 10 k + do some winter climbing
    LTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + would like a PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
     Andy Farnell 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy.


    Goals - 8b, 7B+

    Mon - rest
    Tues - 3 hrs volume bouldering at the Hanger
    Wed - 40 mins fingerboarding, mixed deadhangs/repeaters/pullups
    Thurs - as Wed.
    Fri - out for a 30th birthday, felt tired, didn't drink until 10.30, which meant not too much was consumed.
    Sat - Family
    Sun - 4 hrs volume bouldering at the Hanger.

    Andy F
     Eagle River 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks Andy, this week is looking a little drier, if forecasts are to be believed, so Malham might be an option for next weekend.

    STG (by April 2011): 7b outdoors
    MTG (by end of 2011): 7b+ outdoors
    LTG: don't get injured

    Wed: routes session, after warming up i got on a really good 7b which I still can't do, turns out it gets harder after the point I fell off last time however I can do all the moves so I'm going to keep trying it. After that did a 7a+ and fell from the last moves then another 7a+ which I got first go.
    Fri: bouldering, got two V6s at boulder UK 2nd/3rd go but mostly traversed around the place as it's stamina I need!

    Bit of a slow week really. Still not got back to the beastmaker which I MUST do this week. I do like how I'm trying consecutive hard (for me) routes at the wall whereas in the past I might warm up, try a hard route then a couple of easier ones then a hard one etc. This is inevitably what happens outdoors so it's good I've fallen into the habit of doing it indoors too now.

    Fingers crossed for a dry week!
     seankenny 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: Thanks a lot!

    Had flu this week so spent a couple of days in bed feeling rubbish.

    Nothing else to report. Hopefully back to normal soon.
     Liam M 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: Cheers, much better week.

    Mon: 30mins tempo effort on turbo trainer
    Tue: 14k run, was intending to take it easy but felt good so turned it into a tempo effort and pushed hard for around 10-11k of it.
    Wed: 5x3min intervals, with 2mins in between at lunch, 4.5k recovery run in evening
    Thu: Rest
    Fri: 10k run at 7am (I hate morning runs so don't know how this happened!), 34k cycle in afternoon, first time bike has been out since about October.
    Sat: 18k up along most of the ridge of the Malverns. Really good, despite ferocious winds on the tops.
    Sun: Few hours climbing at Redpoint. Was completely useless, but it's good to get back doing something.

    Great week, and if I can manage something like this regularly I'll be really happy. Only thing missing was a bit of swimming, but can find somewhere to squish that in.

    I was climbing with some inspirational nutters today. One is doing the Ten in Ten (Windermere Marathon everyday for ten days). The other, due to not being able to do the TiT this year (not sure why) is looking instead to do ten Fred Whitton rounds in ten days. I just don't know how anyone could have the mental and physical stamina - it's ridiculous. I'd say I'd aspire to that level of fitness and endurance, but I'm not sure I really do!
     Keendan 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:
    Daniel Heath - welcome! Are those goals the BMF test goals?

    Yeah it's our termly fitness test with the DTUS scheme.

    Thanks for this service. Looking forward to getting fitter now.
    Dan
     biscuit 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    A month of not hitting training targets esp relating to volume but performance is still going well so i can't moan too much.

    Finally got a full week at home next week and a free weekend so am looking to get out on rock anywhere if possible.

    3 fingerboard sessions due to not being able to get out ( doing one now between typing ). Should have been at wall tonight but got back too late. Not been on BM for a while and it hurt after i tried to do my old max hangs session first time. Bit stupid. left me feeling very sore for performance the next day. Doing repeaters now until i go into str phase in Feb.

    Finally got some core done - 2 sessions of 200.

    Performance session was OK. 11 routes done and nearly got the 7a+. I panicked a bit when i got past the RP crux and changed my plan, using a foothold i had tried before and dismissed, i couldn't then make the next move and fell off 2 moves from end. GUTTED ! Only had 20 mins until wall closed so i wasn't very rested but had another go and got one move further and then fell off again. Not too bad. I am now sure it will go next time ,which is a great feeling after it felt nearly impossible on first try just have to get my tactics right.

    Next week's targets:

    7a+
    25 routes 6a and above
    Onsight 6c
    Re-do 6c+ first time
    Get outside at weekend or back to Kendal to test myself on routes there
    3x core 200
     biscuit 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to Eagle River:

    Let me know if you're heading to malham this weekend - i should be free.
     leon 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:
    STG: 50 problems in a session(failed). 4 leader falls (failed).
    MTG: 65 problems within 2 hours. 12 leader falls.
    LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
    VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

    Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
    Weight: 9'12", 10.2% fat.
    Focus: Local endurance. Week 4/6.

    Mon: 30 pull-ups. 30 mins Core 360(360). 20 mins Antagonistic (4.5kg).
    Tue: 30 mins ARC (20 mins alt sos). 60 mins bouldering (10 problems v0-v3).
    Wed: Rest.
    Thu: 30 mins Core 360(360).
    Fri: 45 mins bouldering (16 problems V1-V5). 60 mins routes (13 routes 5-6c).
    Sat: 30 pull-ups. 30 mins Core 344(360). 20 mins Antagonistic (4.5kg).
    Sun: Rest. Should have been 120 mins bouldering 50 problems.

    No fall practice excuse #2: Son kept me up all night Thursday.

    Felt tired all week due to boozing most nights & plenty of broken sleep. Almost blew out three sessions this week so was lucky to just blow out Sunday.

    Friday was looking like it was going to be a poor session but I ended-up doing my first V5 of the year & then another, both felt OK. On the routes I knew I was too tired to climb for the target 120 mins & get the volume in so climbed using features for feet only for 60 mins, really enjoyed climbing this way but found it physically very tiring.

    Elbow felt maybe a little worse than last week, not sure. Will book a physio appointment next week.

    After reading the posts from plexiglass_nick last week going forwards I'm going to replace one of the core/antagonistic sessions with 60 mins climbing when in an endurance phase. I'll probably stick to 3 core sessions in the other phases.

    STG next week 4 falls & 60 problems.
     petestack 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:
    > petestack - good varied week

    Thanks, Andy (I thought so too). So here's a not-so-varied running week now I'm back at work with this weekend's weather not tempting me into mountain days...

    M: Rest
    T: Camas na h-Eirghe, 9.5 miles hilly road (steady out, fartlek back)
    W: Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft (loads of ice)
    T: Dam by Penstock, 11.9 miles/2,200 ft (still icy)
    F: 2 x reverse big laps, 5.8 miles
    S: Lairig Eilde with diversions, 9.3 miles/2,700 ft (wild, wet and windy)
    S: Penstock, 4.6 miles/1,100 ft (track badly damaged in places by water)

    A satisfactory 46.5 miles there given the plan outlined a fortnight ago (40s through January and 50s through February, subject to reasonable compromise for walking/climbing days), but already hoping for two good hill days next weekend!

    Current Goals:
    Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February
    More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
    Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
    Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
    West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
    No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
    Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)

    And some reminiscing on goals achieved as invited last week:
    Grade V ice, tick (The Wand 07/02/10 and Point Five 13/03/10)
    Ramsay's Round, tick (25/07/10)

    Been posting to Fit Club since Week 128, never missed a week yet despite having to report several weeks of injury, recuperation and/or comparative laziness, and know that my motivation to do what needs to be done is still (enjoyably) reinforced by my participation in the thread!
     Steve John B 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: Thanks AJM

    STG: slow running

    M-F - nothing
    S - 40 min run, fast for last 5 minutes. upper left achilles bit sore after.
    S - rest. upper left achilles again mildly sore.

    bored with achilles issues. need to do a little exercise every day (have been doing daily calf raises).
    OP AJM 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to petestack:

    > Been posting to Fit Club since Week 128, never missed a week yet despite having to report several weeks of injury, recuperation and/or comparative laziness, and know that my motivation to do what needs to be done is still (enjoyably) reinforced by my participation in the thread!

    I've just had a look back, and I think my "new starter" post was in week 25 - I hadn't thought it was anywhere near that long, but it appears so! I've missed weeks through holiday but I think apart from that I've done fairly well with my attendance.

    Big changes since I started though. I started at 6b onsight and 6b redpoint, and am now at 6c onsight and 7b redpoint. My trad has come a bit less far though - I've gone from E1 being a big achievement to E2 being a big achievement - linked into the fact that my onsighting has improved a lot less than my redpointing. Something I really want to work on this year. I've learnt a lot about training too, although my dedication at applying it is never quite what it should be, especially when compared with some of the more dedicated souls who post on here.

    You're definitely right though - posting helps motivate me for that extra session, pushes me to do a bit more than I'd normally do. The feedback is pretty useful too, bouncing ideas around with like minded people.
     JayK 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Cheers AJM.

    So everything is booked for El Chorro from 7th February to 28th February. Ferries, car insurance, olive branch etc... Now I need to focus on 3 weeks of training, s we will be setting off at 11pm, 3 weeks from today!

    So I was just wondering if anyone had any advice for my training. I've really been mixing it up lots since I've been back from Spain in December and spending a fairly even time on sport and bouldering. I have however only been climbing routes and boulder problems and haven't actually spent any time on fingerboards and campus boards. Or any specific fitness circuits etc...I have been enjoying the feeling of getting on the hardest routes I possibly can in Redpoint! It's the feeling of knowing something is brick hard but slowly working out the individual moves and linking it all togther! So much fun!! I know I have the strength and fitness for F8a when I go back to Spain, so it's just keeping the fitness simmering I guess.


    M- Couple of easy leads.
    T- Bouldering. Session on the roof. Saw off a v9 I'd been trying. And worked a load of other hardish problems. Swung off the last hold of the v11 again.
    W- Bouldering! Good session on the long roof at Redpoint. Absolutely spanked by the end of it. Was working problems up to about v9-v10ish.
    T- Rest (work)
    F- Rest (work)
    S- Rest (work)
    S- 2.5hr bouldering session at redpoint. Spent the majority of the session on the barrel. It's about the same gradient as Rubicon with the same size holds. It has provided me with 2 new projects! I like the barrel cause it's steep enough to work your core but also not to steep to use tiny crimpers. The 2 projects require good footwork and strong fingers. Hard. ~v9/v10ish.


    Find the grades on the barrel a lot stiffer than the roof, so I'm going to spend quite a bit more time on it because it's obviously a weakness.

    After writing down my week, I've noticed I've bouldered far more than I have roped. Need to do some more routes next week!!
    Thickhead 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    M: 3mile trail run Conwy 100m ascent
    T: 4.5mile trail run Conwy 120m ascent
    W: 3mile trail run Conwy 100m ascent
    T: 9mile trail run Conwy/Sychnant 500m ascent
    F: 7.5mile fell run Moelwyns from Tanygrisiau 700m ascent
    S: AM 3.5mile trail run Great Orme 240m ascent PM 7mile road run 200m ascent
    S: 12.5mile trail/fell run Conwy/Sychnant 720m ascent

    Dreamed last night that I went climbing, so once things have settled down at home may be able to consider something! Still no baby yet.
     grubes 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:
    Been really bad at recording this week.

    STG (end of march): get out on rock. Have I missed the whole of grit season?
    Amtrax - el chorro
    RP 6b+ - el chorro
    onsight a HVS and maybe a E1
    Set up a beastmaker at home
    MTG end of june:
    RP 6c?
    Onsight E2
    Flash Browns eliminate
    1 font 6A+/6B
    LTG end of 2011:
    Get solid at E1/2 onsight
    no major injuries
    boulder v6
    RP 7a

    M: hudds wall. 2hours+ Spoke to my mate who is a physio and I got some shoulder exercises to do to increase the strength of my rotator cuff
    T: rest. Think I did some core
    W: Huddersfield wall session. Routes and bouldering 2hours+
    T: rest think did core. Also shoulder exercises
    F: rest. Think did core. Also shoulder exercises
    S: some core. Also shoulder exercises
    S: Works 3hours session. Wanted to keep going at the end but my lift was heading off. Shoulder exercises.

    This weeks targets:
    Record exercises better.
    Get out on rock!!!
    1 swimming session
    some weights.
    shoulder work every day
    3+ climbing sessions (indoor or out)
     JayK 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to Plexiglass (from last week):

    Did you enjoy Chorro? I noticed you did some of the routes I did when I was out there! I thought the 6c+ at El triangulo was pretty stiff! And it spat me off on the O/S! Flashed Fran Sin Natra though which I thought was an awesome route down at Buena Sombra! I like it so much I'm going back in feb! Loads to go at at El triangulo. Really want to get on Mar de Ortiga's! Looks awesome!
    In reply to AJM:
    > I feel battered, my shoulders are sore, my fingers ache, my fingertips are shredded - a fitting end to a great week!

    I feel you on that one mate! Sounds like you've had a great week.
     Stone_donkey 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Mon - Karate (aerobic & core strength)
    tue- Rock ring dead hangs + slab pinches 3 sets to exhaustion
    Wed-
    Thu - Wall, some falling practice on some 6a's - Falls taken:3. Need to do more of this and on slightly harder routes. Didn't warm up enough either and paid the consequences
    Fri-
    Sat-
    Sun-

    Bit lazy this week.
    And yes, I was in Chateauvert in October - good it was too!
     Banned User 77 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to Stone_donkey:

    m: 11 mile road run.
    t: hill reps. 8 miles, 500m ascent.
    w: trail run. 400m ascent. Gwydyr forest.
    t: lunch: 6 miles (ran to track and back and 4 x200m, 3 x800m, 2 x 400m). pm: 7 miles 700m ascent fell run up llanberis path
    f: 3 mile road run. 2 hrs at climbing wall
    s: 16.4 mile trail run on Angelsey, 400m ascent.
    s: lunch: 10 mile trail run, 600m ascent. pm: 6 mile fell run Gyrn Wigau, 500m ascent
     Mark Torrance 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    M: am 3.5 run road flat, pm 3.5 run road mild hill
    T: am 4.3 run road flat, pm 3.5 run road mild hill
    W:
    T:
    F: 5.6 miles run road and path
    S: 8.4 including 3*4min, 4*2min, 4*1min intervals
    S: 12.2 miles slow road run, undulating

    First ever run with a club on Saturday. Felt comfortable at the time, but I was stiff for the long run today. Mileage probably also a bit high. Hal would not be impressed.
     Kevster 16 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:
    thanks Andy,

    Bitter sweet week. Indoors, regular wall=no motivation to try. Pretty enthusiastic besides that.

    Mon:
    Tue: Indoors: Chatted all session. climbed about 3 routes
    Wed:
    Thur: Indoors: Bouldering kk, actually ached after/next day. Got a couple of remaining problems, volume of routes mostly. Body says it all by aching.
    Fri:
    Sat: Watched comp in london. Girls technique rules. Mens power is quite impressive, but the girls... AND was it me or were the mens and womens set differently? Womens features, volumes and whole body, mens more holds and power pulling? Maybe thats just how it looks. Still, impressive.
    Sun: Indoors: no hard leads or tries, but did sus a couple of gems in the bouldering room. poss max real V5.

    Thanks, kev.

    Goals:
    STG:
    Get knee back to good – lay off the big rock overs/ camming in with knee type moves.
    Keep fitness up – Climb at least twice a week.
    Try to introduce fingerboard/strength training as a weekly thing.
    Lead fall practice.

    2011 Outdoors:
    Sport: Increase number of attempted routes in 7’s to 40 routes. At least one a session!
    Sport: Increase RP grade to at least 7c, if not higher. Ambition here- could be the year!
    Trad: 20 E points. Ambition of one E route per session. Make E1 normal.
    Bouldering: Do some! 3 x Font 7a minimum.

    OP AJM 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to Stone_donkey:

    > And yes, I was in Chateauvert in October - good it was too!

    So I hear - my missus was on the same course, and her enthusing is the reason why we're going back in March...!
    OP AJM 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz) and Murd:

    Cheers guys. I think its the first time I've seen a non-incremental change in a while - indoors on ropes I'm climbing about the same as last year, on the bouldering I've been doing a bit more of the medium/hard circuit (33% to 50%, improvement but incremental improvement). Outdoors I've been slowly chugging away, didn't break any new sport grades last year, slow but steady improvement on the trad. This sort of quasi-stamina thing (I guess its a bit like an easier CIR, doing 20-30 problems instead of 10) however was a proper step change - I flashed this time more problems than I could complete in any style last time, and did a few others second/third/fourth go as well.

    Anyway, its got me psyched for more, looking forward to getting keen over the next few weeks. Still aching this morning though!

    AJM
     jkarran 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks AJM and apologies for absence, a lack of motivation combined with the holiday season to produce a very slack few weeks I had no inclination to report. Hopefully my motivation is returning with the lengthening days...

    M: Indoor, Oaklands. Bouldering then routes. Good strong session with my RP project spoiled by poor tactics.
    T: Indoor, Depot. Very good session after a slow start.
    W:
    T:
    F: Run 3.53mi (7:59 pace). Just nice to want to run again.
    S:
    S:

    Goals for the year, much as before:
    Keep motivated
    Something in the 7c/8a range
    <40min 10k

    jk
     Quiddity 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to JimmyKay:

    It's funny, my week started really badly and after a couple of days of Chorro I really wasn't sure I liked the place. Happened to me there last year there as well - I think I found it difficult to get into the style. Had a couple of good days and I really like it now.

    I saw your post - yeah lots still seeping while we were there - almost the whole of Makinodromo too wet to get on, which is a shame as it looks a brilliant crag.

    The 6c+ at Triangulo I thought was really fun! Lots of quite committing throws to blind pockets, not that hard when you do it but quite a tough o/s I think. I fluffed the RP as well! Triangulo is a fantastic crag - so much to do there. Good effort on Fran Sin Natra, also think that is pretty sequency and a tough flash.
     UKB Shark 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to biscuit:
    > (In reply to Eagle River)
    >
    > Let me know if you're heading to malham this weekend - i should be free.



    Happy Birthday Fit Club !

    If Eagle River is who I think he is then we are going on Sunday if you'd like to meet up.
     Quiddity 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Cheers Andy. I think FC week 200 means I have been on here for 100 weeks now - I had a look at my first post: my goals were as follows:

    MTG - RP 7b (7b+?), O/S 7a in Kalymnos. Boulder V4 in Peak and 6b in Font.
    LTG (End of 2009) - Siege 7b+ (7c?) Boulder V6/Font 7a. (2010) - E3 in Lundy.
    VLTG - 8a


    I remember when I wrote that 7b+ seemed like crazy talk and 7c seemed ridiculous to even be talking about. Progress is slow but it's there. Oddly out of those onsighting 7a is probably the goal that proved to be the most frustrating and took the longest. On the other hand I still have yet to boulder V6 or even 6b in font...!

    Anyway enough self indulgence. At the moment I am also on the high volume thing - Aiming to push the volume I can handle in a session during January, with an emphasis on ramping up the intensity of problems during Feb, with the aim of projecting v7 and being reasonably solid at v6. A power endurance phase during March/April should take me into routing season. Current goals don't particularly require training aerobic endurance so I'm going to leave that until the summer.

    STG
    January training goal: indoor boulder 4x V6 and 1xV7. 4x CIR, 2x Density. 4x quality fingerboard. 6x volume bouldering - hit 60/session.
    February training goal:6x V6, 2xV7.
    Weight back to 63.5kg by Apr 30
    Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. 7b and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire
    Indoor projects: Arch: black 7b+, red v7, Castle: blue (v7?) and orange (v6?) on wave.

    MTG
    Onsight 7a+
    Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5x7a, 2x7a+)
    7c+ Pyramid (1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
    40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1)
    F8a redpoint in 2011

    LTG
    Onsight 7b+
    Supercool, Infinite Gravity

    M:
    T: Castle - volume session. circuit of 7 probs at V4, 20 problems on black circuit. 49 problems total. (11xV0-, 31xV0-3, 7xV4). Pull ups and bicep curls.
    W:
    T: Westway, leading - easy volume session. 10 routes at 5+ to 6b. Lots of falling.
    F: Castle - volume session. CIR (9xV4+6xV3) 20 blacks. 56 problems total (10xV0-, 35xV0-3, 10xV4, 1xV5). Utterly battered by end of session. Bicep curls and pull ups.
    S:
    S: Arch. Working on red v7 project. Done in 2 sections. Frustratingly close - fell slapping the top about 3 times. 13 problems total (10xV0-3, 2xV4, 1xV5)

    Goals for this week:
    2x volume sessions. 2x pull ups and bicep curls. Tick v7 project.
     viking 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
    MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
    LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)

    Mon: rest - ill
    Tue: rest - ill
    Wed: Bouldered at Castle up to V5 (slab problem)
    Thu: rest
    Fri: Bouldered at Castle up to V4 (overhanging)
    Sat: rest
    Sun: Bouldered at Arch including 2 x V5's, and flashed about 3 x V4's

    Cheers AJM, I managed to get down the wall three times this week, so it feels like I've made good progress in getting over the flu!

    I started fitclub in Week 55 - wanting to consolidate E1 - which I did - bagged about four or five in Wales that Easter and also wanted do a Font 7a as MTG - which I did that autumn. Things seem to have gone a bit downhill since then, not that psyched for trad anymore or sport. But I'm really enjoying the carefree world of bouldering! I'm also starting to feel my age a bit!

    Thanks for your efforts (and Biscuit's previously) and keep up the good work - it's a great motivational tool.
     Eagle River 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to shark:

    Rumbled!
     catt 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    200! In the interests of posterity, I see my first post was in week 24, and funnily mentions being crap about getting enough sleep (see below...) Should tell me something! No mention of goals until week 38; E2, Fr7b/+, font 7b/+. Still waiting on the bouldering goal but at least the others were achieved!

    Will be interesting to see if finally introducing some structure breaks what frankly, looking back, appears like a long period of treading water.
     catt 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:


    By Apr 2011
    Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
    French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Hall of Mirrors at the Cuttings.

    Goals for the past week were 2 x fingerboard, 1 x max boulder session, 1 x route mileage session, 1 x run

    M - rest
    T - Strength: Hangs @ Castle. Warmed up with 1 hour bouldering to V4, and 30mins attempts on V7/8 moves. Then back 3, front 2, back 2, one arm hangs and assisted one arm pullups.
    W - Aeorobic: Routes @ Castle. 7 routes to 6b+, took a couple falls. Really want to get more mileage in here.
    T - rest
    F - Strength: Bouldering @ Castle. Warmed up with 20 problems to V4. Spent rest of time working 'too hard for me' moves on Pen problems.
    S - Strength: Hangs @ Home. Back 3 and one arm assisted hangs, built up to holding 92% of actual body weight. Good improvements here.
    5.2km run
    S - Bouldering @ Arch. Several V4s flashed and a V5 flash. Got all but final moves on V7. Not able to get any good links today though.

    Weight hovering around 74.5kg by end of the week.

    Fairly pleased with sticking to the plan this week, and got an extra session over what was planned. Also feeling good that the variety enforced by this approach might actually mean I stick with it. But I need to think about my scheduling and have a little more discipline, because I'm knackered and 3 days on wasn't the smartest move. Also didn't sleep well all week and it's catching up.

    This week will be power focussed with an aerobic fitness session (climb and run), so I will aim to do:
    1 x full campus session
    1 x split campus/power boulder session (looking for success/good links on V5/6). Will use this to work out problems for next weeks PE too.
    1 x route mileage or volume boulder
    1 x run (only if current lower leg soreness has recovered by the weekend)

    If weather allows at the weekend will get out on rock for a day, in which case one of the training sessions will be scrapped.
    XXXX 17 Jan 2011
    Thanks Andy and biscuit for all the effort you put into this.

    Turns out I started in week 80 somethin but have missed about 20 since then through injuries where posting about lack of exercise has depressed me no end.

    My goals for week 100...

    STG: 3.5 miles at sub 7 min mile pace. I haven't actually tried this yet!
    MTG: 45 mile run in sub 10 hours. London in sub 3:30. Get top 3 at an orienteering event.
    LTG: Run an ultra. Win an orienteering event.

    Well, I've run 13.1 miles at well under 7 min/mile pace. I ran the 45 mile run in 8:48 (which turned out to be 40 miles but hey ho) I've run London in 3:26 and achieved a 2nd place at an orienteering event. Long term goals are still unachieved however!


     biscuit 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to Eagle River:
    > (In reply to shark)
    >
    > Rumbled!

    Ha Ha !

    I will pencil Sunday in and see you there. Will be bringing some others along as well so don't worry about odd numbers + partners etc.
    XXXX 17 Jan 2011
    So to this week...

    Feeling really tired this week, not sure why but carried on running regardless. Have started sleeping 10 hours a night which makes doing anything quite difficult!

    Races currently entered for the year...

    Four Inns, April. (40 miles)
    Saunders, July (2 day mountain marathon)

    Plans...
    A road marathon in September time
    A multi day ultra
    A single day ultra
    2-3 other long distance, off road races
    OMM
    Maybe that Montane Lakes thing of 100 miles

    Basically I'm having a distance year so I've come up with a plan to get the weekend mileage up and get used to two consecutive long runs. Basically, I'm adding 1 mile a week to the weekend mileage starting at 20. So last week, 4 and 16. This week 7 and 14. Next week 10 and 12 etc

    M: rest
    T: spin - 45 minutes, hard. (680calories - a new record for me)
    W: road run, 6.5 miles at 7:15 pace
    T: easy run, 4 miles
    F: rest
    S: 7 miles, easy pace
    S: 14 miles, easy pace

    Goals for next week
    3rd consecutive 30+ mile week. 22 miles at the weekend. One cross training session and one pace run
    Goal for end of January
    100 + miles in January. 10k in sub 43 mins. Have a full race plan for the year
    Three month goal, end march
    30miles + at the weekends and at least 3 40+ mile weeks. Sub 41 min 10k. Finished two races at least inc one marathon.
    Six month goal, end june
    More than one 40 mile weekend and 2-3 50+ mile weeks. Sub 40 min 10k. Finish two more races including one more marathon
    12 month goal, 2011
    Run ultra, sub 3:10 marathon, at least one really long distance challenge.

    chris05 17 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: cheers AJM

    STG: 7A

    M: pull-ups, press-ups, weights, core (500) & BM (repeaters, max hangs, 4x8 footless moves)
    T: nothing
    W: pub
    T: pull-ups, press-ups, weights, core (500) & BM (repeaters, 3x30 moves foot on, max hangs)
    F: core (500)
    S: short session at Pleasley vale
    S: short session at Raven Tor

    An Ok week, no running as I have hurt my calf. Good to get outside again even if it was spent avoiding wet holds. Really enjoyed first trip to the Tor, keen for Weedkiller traverse when its drier (and I'm stronger).
     andy 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: Thank you kindly. The reasonable volume continued this week, but still no proper long run due to being at 5 days of work conferences.

    M: Newcastle - 8m with 6m of 6:50 pace. Hard work in the dark and the rain.
    T: home again - 4m steady
    W: nowt
    T: popped into the ofice on the way past and grabbed a quick 8m in just over an hour.
    F: nothing
    S: a truly heroic 14m in the wind and rain on the canal towpath. Generally about 7:40 pace with miles 10-12 at 6:45 pace.
    S: an equally heroic mile and a half with the dog in the pissing rain and mud because 10 year old was desperate to get out for a walk.

    Reasonably happy with progress so far. Need to stop myself going too long too soon. Last year I did my first 20 miler in mid-Jan, but this time I'm aiming to do 3x20, 2x22 and 1x24, so won't do the first 20 til early Feb. Also important to keep doing the slow recovery miles to get time on my feet without risking injury.
     Goonie 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Week 2 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc.For those that are interested the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up!

    So Links to program are here:
    https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...

    and here:
    https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...

    GOALS:
    Short: mid Feb
    V7 and onsight 7a+ (in or out)

    Medium: May
    V8, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors

    Long term: August
    Outdoor 8a

    Summary:
    This week I have been continuing the open handing technique and continuing with Muscular endurance but introduced 3 power sessions using a campus routine. The first one was rubbish the second marginally better but the 3rd I saw real progress and felt a bit of snap coming back. I have been a little bit up and down in terms of my weight management but this has mainly been due to the work I am doing at the minute. I am really liking the dual theory stuff as it really keeps the body guessing!

    Was working at the Outdoor show on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday running sky masters and managed to have a few goes myself was good fun! Also watched the BBC, Ned Feehally is awesomely strong!!

    Weight: 77.6kg

    Still feeling good and motivated
    Cheers

    Gordon
     Quiddity 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to Goonie & catt:

    Really interested in this dual factor stuff.

    Do you think one week working a single aspect (eg Power) is long enough to make gains that are maintained long enough (while you are training something else) to lead to incremental improvement when you come back round to power again?

    I guess only time will tell - definitely following your progress with interest. It'd be super informative for the rest of us if you continue to update fit club with your performance/training benchmarks as and when you do them.
     Cyan 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:
    Been reading fitclub since not long after it started, and it was a factor in my deciding to see whether I could climb harder than F6a+… I finally posted for the first time in week 118 having just done my first 7a. I’ve now climbed my first 7b and onsighted a handful of 6c+s and have continued to read the thread every week though my posting has been a bit intermittent. So cheers guys, especially shark and AJM for all the work you’ve put in – fitclub has made a big difference to my climbing.

    Coasting a bit since we got back from Turkey, and need to crack on – this year’s going to be tough as 7c by the end of the year is definitely going to require getting stronger…

    Mon – Rest.
    Tues – Castle. Bouldering up to V2. Easy session. Started walking to work again – tired.
    Wedns – Rest.
    Thurs – Rest.
    Fri – Castle. Fun session working V3’s and V4’s. Either I’m weaker or the problems are harder. Or a bit of both of course.
    Sat – Rest.
    Sun – Arch. 8x V3, 2x V4. Not too wiped out.
     Goonie 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to plexiglass_nick:

    Hi mate I am recording all mine on the spreadsheet links you can check them daily as my aim is to update after every session. as I am just coming back from lay off my increments won't be phenomenal but hopefully steady though I have to say I am so far quite shocked by rapid progress in a short term of only two weeks. Also the nextphase comes around quite quickly so not worrying about the performance drop example week 1 is strength and then two power so complement each other then a week of PE and then back to strength again. so quite a quick turnaround!
     Quiddity 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to Goonie:

    Cheers mate. First link I think has public access disabled.
     Goonie 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to plexiglass_nick:

    should both be open for viewing i will double check!
     phja 18 Jan 2011
    Hi guy's...first time doing this, hope it will help me

    i'll introduce myself: been climbing for about 2 1/2 years. last year got to a high of E1 on grit but have since lost my head for leading and want to get it back. Also want to hit the training hard and branch out into sport and bouldering which i've not really done before.

    STG
    -loose a stone in weight
    -get back upto solid VS leading
    -get the feel for boldering and sport climbing

    LTG (end of this yr)
    -lead solid E1 (enough to get me up millstone E1 crack lines )
    -boulder 6b
    -sport 6b

    I've been working on stength for a month or so now and will bring in endurace training next month. This is what i've done this last wk:
    M- bouldering, finger board, pull-up bar
    T- indoor wall, lead 5x6a.
    W- rest
    T- bouldering wall and finger board (felt pretty tired...didn't do well)
    F- rest
    S- the works bouldering
    S- rest

    looking at the number of rest days i feel i could up the training a bit more
     ayuplass 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM: A poor week this time
    Mon - knackered and achey after bouldering on Sunday
    Tues - rest
    Wed - gym. Cross trainer 16 min then rower 3min row/1 min rest x5
    Thurs - Leeds wall. Led 4 x3 and a 3+ on big overhanging wall. Could barely clip in at the top but was a good achievement to do a lead on this wall. Bouldered - V3x2, V2x3, V1x2
    Fri/sat/sun - ill/nowt

    I think an easy week had been good for me, I just felt under the weather so had a rest.

    Stg - Scotland Feb 10th. Lose 7lb before then or else my trousers won't fit! Thinking about my climbing/ leading I only got to 6a when I weighed less. So first goal is to get back to what I was. Hopefully this will improve my hill fitness for Scotland in the process

    Goals for Scotland depend on partners but I'm hoping to get a good number of routes under my belt this year so I'm spending 10 days there instead of 6/7 like previous years. Would quite like to just tick lots of grade I/IIs but some more IIIs would be nice if I can get a willing partner
    OP AJM 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to Curious Yellow:

    > So cheers guys, especially shark and biscuit for all the work you’ve put in – fitclub has made a big difference to my climbing.

    Edited it - compared to biscuit's efforts I have done nothing

    > this year’s going to be tough as 7c by the end of the year is definitely going to require getting stronger…

    I'm thinking much the same - I am probably in a not too dissimilar position to you (barring your better onsighting record of course) in that I need to get stronger to do the moves on the sorts of routes I want to do these days.

    Anyway, when you pick yourself a 7c, let me know if its in the Brean/Cheddar/Bristol area - I don't think I've got the dedication to travel to Portland for it, but for something nearer home I always find the more people get involved the better the beta ends up
     mark mcgowan01 18 Jan 2011
    In reply to Goonie:


    Hi Gordon
    Glad to see your getting some benefits from my training techniques. Keep at it as Im sure you will see big gains. If your interested in the full program visit my coaching site at http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/

    kind regards
    Mark
     Cyan 19 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:
    Argh, shame on me Sorry biscuit, that's me posting quickly while at work... and thank you.

    Agreed and will do, that would be great. It'll be some time yet though!
     Goonie 19 Jan 2011
    In reply to mark mcgowan01:

    Hi Mark

    Thanks for making this public as it has been invaluable so far and I will report back on progress, etc.

    I have tinkered with some of the theories and going to stick with this for a cycle, I will be updating daily so any feedback you are after etc please pm me.

    I am a bit skint at the minute so can't afford the program but this may change in the future.

    Again thanks for letting me use/abuse this.

    Regards

    Gordon
     fimm 19 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Well, after a bit of checking I've found that I've been here since week 30 (October 2007). I have not posted every week since then, though! I note one of my first targets was to complete a triathlon - well I've done a few, now...

    I also know that I posted that I'd like to qualify for the Duathlon in Edinburgh, when that was very much something that looked completely out of my reach, so that is something I achieved. Climbing targets have been a bit thin on the ground, but I have had some - the "redpoint" of the indoor 6A+ being the top one, I think.

    Anyway, last week:
    M: climbing Alien Rock. Decided my dodgy hamstring really didn't like it and went home after about half an hour.
    Tu: nothing
    W: club swim
    Th: I think I went swimming again
    F: gentle 30 minute run (and it was very gentle as I managed to find some horrible ice to run on)
    Sa: another gentle 30 minute run, but a bit more strenuous than the last one.
    Su: nothing
    In reply to AJM:

    Cheers Andy.

    Had a great session at Climbing Works on Sunday, really enjoyed it and will definitely be heading back there very soon. Felt super-confident and felt that I climbed really well, very happy indeed with progress at the moment. Itching to get out on real rock though, as I imagine everyone is, so that I can continue working on my route confidence and gear / rope skills.

    Concentrating on sorting my nutrition out a bit this and next week, eating more fruit and less crappy stuff. Went a bit off the rails with it lately so wanting to steer it back. Seen a massive difference in body fat and weight this week too.

    ---------------------------
    GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
    ---------------------------

    STG
    O/S S trad
    O/S HS trad

    MTG
    Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
    O/S Cenotaph Corner
    O/S Cemetery Gates
    O/S F7a sport

    LTG - hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
    O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.

    OTHER SIDELINE GOALS
    O/S V4 bouldering
    H/P Ousal Low trav at Churnet (V6)
    H/P Rippler SS at Roaches UT (V6)

    ---------------------------
    WEEKLY TOTALS
    ---------------------------

    M: Rest
    T: Bouldering at AW. Good circuit session, variety of grades and angles. Session on the woody.
    W: Rest
    T: Rest
    F: Bouldering at Upper Limits.
    S: Rest
    S: Mammoth bouldering session at Climbing Works. Really enjoyed the change of scenery and... what a great wall! Saw Johnny Dawes, Ned Feehally and a few others there too. Wicked place.

    Weight: 140.8 lbs (-2 lbs from last wk!)
    Body Fat: 7 % (-1.1% from last wk!)
    (Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)

    ---------------------------
    NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
    Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
    ---------------------------

    BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
    SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
    LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
    SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
    TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
    SUPPER: Cottage cheese.

    TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:

    Reiki and meditation
    Once a day: SiS 99% Pure Fish Oil supplement with vits etc.
     TonyB 20 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    I've been a bit poor with the training and fitclub recently. Last week there was no post because the week before I'd been visiting family and climbed absolutely nothing. Last week I had a bad cold and only managed two days climing. Friday a session at the roped wall with wife and baby (note to self when taking our baby go to the bouldering wall not rope wall). Only managed 3 routes in 3h as spent most of the time looking after the baby. Then on Saturday a quick bouldering session. What's more I haven't even had time to think about climbing goals.
     Kevster 20 Jan 2011
    In reply to TonyB:

    Disguise it a "rest period" with the aims of re establishing enthusiasm and allowing the body to recover from a recent period of abuse...
    Duvet week doesn't quite sound the same!
    Regards, Kev.
     Rob Naylor 22 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks AJM!

    M: Brit Mil Fit, 1 hour
    T: Crossfit, 1 hour
    W: Rest
    Th: Crossfit, 1 hour
    F: Rest
    Sa: Brit Mil Fit, 1 hour
    Su: Rest

    Seemed to cope with the above last week OK. May add in a climbing session this coming week. Not touched rock or plastic for 9 months
     richardh 22 Jan 2011
    In reply to AJM:

    manflu wipeout!

    mon, tues, weds, pretty much horizontal in bed, actual flu rather than manflu!
    thurs working from home as didn't go in so as not to infect people as still coughing chunks.
    friday - limp, if stairs a challenge, wall is a write-off.

    Sat to France for family ski holiday with all the enthusiasm and energy of a stripper to a nun's convention.

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