In reply to zukator: Bob you chose to present you critique of the guide with an intro that indicated a comparison with the CC (who have never produced a winter guide before) and failed to mention one of my guidebooks from the same era – so what else am I supposed to take from that. You claim that your position in the AA is the same as yours in the CC – I don’t think the AA has you listed on their key people contact page does it!
As for the points you made, here we go one by one:
First and foremost you are criticising the book for things that it never claimed to be. If I had advertised this guide as a fully comprehensive definitive guide you would have a point, but I have not. From day one it has been referred to as an ‘interim’ guide and the statement on the back of the guide (and on the first page intro section) makes it very clear what is being offered, to the point of listing the crags deemed to be ‘major’.
Anyway, first point: Parsley Fern has been well documented to date, the Black Ladders has not. Are you not in the least bit happy to see this amazing piece of history documented, and moreover documented in such a clear and colourful fashion? Surely the volume of information is impressive on its own (an increase of 40+ routes on this one cliff), not to mention the improvements to the descriptions of old routes. Your dismissive tone suggests that you think this cliff is of minor interest when it is in fact one of the most important winter cliffs in Britain, never mind Wales.
If I’d been producing a fully comprehensive definitive guide Parsley Fern and all the other routes in Cwm Glas would have been given the full topo/description coverage. The route is only mentioned in passing as a reference to the previously undocumented IV line to its left.
The same point applies to the Fidelity area routes.
What is wrong with describing routes in the slate quarries? There has been new development here; of course it needs to be in the book.
Lliwedd – you call this a ‘major’ crag, and I agree it is important, but it has notoriously fickle conditions and is rarely in condition. It seemed entirely reasonable to only describe the new routes (far important to give full coverage to the nearby Clogwyn y Garnedd). You dismiss Dai Lampard’s background story to the girdle of the crag; this is one of the greatest achievements in Welsh winter climbing and I was very excited to be able to publish a full description of the route plus the fascinating story of the ascent.
You say in your second post that there is no info about any routes on Lliwedd – in fact there are 4 routes (6 if you include Lliwedd Bach) given full descriptions.
Aber Falls and Cadair – see above point about non comprehensive nature of the guide. The described new routes are given a grid reference and a position on the cliff – if they were next to Trojan I would have mentioned Trojan, but they are not.
The comments regarding the previous guide – all I have done is document what a lot of people both within and without the North Wales scene have expressed to me. I didn’t write the comments on that1987 page in the Pete’s Eats book – one of the authors of the previous guide did. Cannon Rib was a key route that should have been heralded for what it is; a fantastic winter route and also a pointer to what wonders lay ahead. Instead it was dismissed out of hand. I realise that this all happened a life time ago when attitudes to winter climbing were less open minded than they are now, but the point remains that in the following couple of decades Wales lagged behind what was happening in Scotland and that wasn’t just because they get more reliable winters up there.
I make no apologies for the acknowledgements pages at the back of the book. This guide was built upon a lot of very hard work and extremely valuable contributions from a large and enthusiastic group of climbers. To not pay tribute to them would be plain rude.
The index – yes, as I’ve already said, this should have gone in but I took the decision to go without because of the time pressure. Producing an index is not as simple as it might appear and with a rapidly approaching deadline I was left with no choice.
I sent the guide to the printers just before Christmas, exhausted by the effort of months and months of intense work, knowing that I’d managed to document a remarkable phase in the history of Welsh climbing. Yes a few compromises had been forced upon the production, but nonetheless I was deeply proud of what we had done (i.e. taking the idea of a new routes supplement and developing it into what is very nearly a fully comprehensive guide) – I haven’t changed my mind about that, and judging by the wealth of positive feedback I have received since I was right to be proud.
I would urge you to road test the guide at the crag before dismissing it further. I think you will be pleasantly surprised, and if all those gorgeous colour images don’t give you inspiration then I don’t know what will? I’ve been staring at them all year and I still get excited when I pick the book up and think about the next winter adventure.