In reply to NickP:
I would also recommend the 5.10 Galileos, along with the Anasazi velcro and the 5.10 Moccasym, in order of decreasing stiffness. They seem to fit my wide, but not too arched feet, nicely.
The Galileos are very stiff, great for standing on very small edges and nibs, but lack some sensitivity, especially when you first start using them. They synthetic upper stretches _very_ little, just enough to make it a little more comfortable for your toe knuckles (which may well hurt in the beginning). I can not say they have stretched in length, and they are definately the shoe that has stretched/softened the least, of all my pairs. Synthetic upper smells like cow dung, especially after a few sweaty sessions
The Anasazi VCS have a somewhat similar fit, I think, but are noticably softer, and are a little easier to smear with. I feel the heel cup is too baggy, but don't use them for heel hooks much anyway. Perhaps a good allrounder.
The Moccasyms are very soft, smear well, and may be good if you are climbing cracks. Standing on small edges does take considerable more effort that when using a stiffer shoe, so I don't use this as an every day shoe. Heel tends to pop off when hooking, but I've stopped using them for that type of climbing.
For what is's worth I use the same size in Galileos and Moccasyms. The Galileos are nice and snug, great for edging with curled toes, while in the Moccasyms, my toes are almost flat. I use a half size up in the Anasazis, and they are a little more comfortable that the Galileos.
