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cassin route

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I am going to Switzerland in June to climb the Cassin route on the Piz Badile. I have not purchased the guide book yet and was wondering how involved the approach is going to be? Will I have to cross a glacier, i.e. will I need crampons/ice axe, or is the approach quite straight forward?

Any advice would be much appriciated!
 mic_b 29 Jan 2011
In reply to southernclimber:
No glacier. The approach is straightforward you just follow the path / ridge up hill from
the hut. There are two small snowfileds to cross to reach the traverse in to the route proper. I did it in August 2009 and crampons were needed to ascend the second snow field I didn't have them and lost a fair bit of time climbing round it. If you're planning to descend the north ridge leave your boots / crampons at the notch and get them on the way back. Be fast on the route as it's pretty long and the descent takes a while. Me and my mate did it as our first alpine route and we ended up having to spend a cold and uncomfortable night on the top but learned a lot from it and managed to half the guidebook time on the next route we did.

Have fun!


In reply to mic_b: Thanks very much for the advice. This will be my first proper alpine route as well so any tips are much appriciated. Thanks again!
 basvdploeg 29 Jan 2011
In reply to southernclimber:
Hey! Very very nice classic. If you are solid at the grade, I would say that it is 2 pitches of "trying to put in a little effort" and the rest is very good quality climbing. However, don't underestimate the length of the route and the descent as well.

June might be a little early in the season to avoid snow. The route can stay wet for a long time and I would certainly bring an ice axe along. You can always give the Sasc Fura hut a phone call (0041 81 822 12 52)

The approach is really easy. Sasc Fura hut by foot in 1-1,5 hrs from the parking (toll road). If you walk a little further, there are tons of good bivi spots.

There are two options for the descent:
-abseil along the North Ridge, not easy to find and pretty long. (Option is to do the North Ridge prior to tackling the Cassin, to acclimatize a little and to find ab- stations)
-shorter descent to Italian side (2-3 hrs to Gianetti hut, and hike back the next day)

Enjoy
 John Alcock 31 Jan 2011
In reply to basvdploeg:
When we did it the ice slope at the bottom was very easy. You could probably do it with light-weight crampons over approach shoes. Then you could carry them up the route, go out over the top and avoid the tiresoem North Ridge abseil.
 beardy mike 31 Jan 2011
In reply to John Alcock: But whatever you do, don't leave the deck without crampons and shoes... the face turns white very very quickly and whilst we were getting hauled off the north ridge after a storm, some Belgian guys who were on the cassin had to climb to the ridge because they could not be picked up from the bottom of the chimneys which had turned into an ice funnel. Luckily they had a pair between them otherwise they could have been in for a v'ry v'ry cold night...
 Dave Williams 31 Jan 2011
In reply to southernclimber:

Personally, I'd bivi as close as possible to the foot of the route in order to make as early a start as is feasible. June is early season, and even if all the snow's gone (which I'd doubt), it'll be on the chilly side. Don't go near it if there's any risk of poor weather. I've seen it completley plastered in snow after a big storm.

As has been said already, it's a long route and you need to keep something in reserve for the descent - both options are a bit trying at the end of a long day. If you descend to the Gianetti you'll definitely need axe and crampons for the return journey.

As for first ever alpine route ... hmm. I've no idea of your capabilities - so don't take this the wrong way - but it wouldn't be *my* choice as a first ever alpine route. It's a big face and much can go wrong. If time/ weather allow, perhaps it'd be worth considering a shake-down on something like the nearby Piz Gemelli's NNW Ridge, aka the Flat Iron, first? The whole ridge is about TD+ but I suggest you only do the first ten-pitch (Flat Iron) section to where the climbing becomes loose and unpleasant and then abseil back down the bolts. Superb climbing on an impressive lump of rock and no need to carry sacks either as they can be left at the bottom. AIR, the climbing's broadly at the same standard as the Cassin, or perhaps even slightly easier. Just a thought ...

Hope this helps.

Dave
Peter Holtmeyer-Cole 31 Jan 2011
In reply to southernclimber:
Climbed this 5 years ago.
Don't need crampons-only have to traverse from the base of the North Ridge down to the bergshrund. The glacier has retreated a long way over the last 20 years. The route is long & route finding is awkward near the snowpatch. June is early & the mountain can still be covered in snow then. August is probably the best time.
Watch out for snowfall as the snow patch melts during the day.
Great climb though-a classic for a reason. All those wooden wedges in the upper chimneys.
Pete
Removed User 31 Jan 2011
In reply to Peter Holtmeyer-Cole:

You could be lucky but Jun is very early. I have been there twice in Aug to try and do it and both times it has been covered in snow. It seems to catch any storms going and then when it gets any snow take a very long time to clear.

Also as previously stated make sure the weather forecast is very good. I did the flat Iron and the next day descended as the weather broke and the NE face of the Badile became a snow covered waterfall in no time at all.

On the plus side becasue the Cassin was not in codition I have climbed loads of other great routes in the area. Everything elase seems to clear and dry much quicker.

Gary.
 beardy mike 31 Jan 2011
In reply to Removed User: As I said before - I really cannot stress enough what a dangerous place it is in a storm - we were caught at the top of the ridge in a lightening storm, all three of us got hit, one of us twice... the weather comes in stupidly fast and it is a difficult retreat if you're stuck... on;y just read the bit about 1st alpine route... might need to temper your ambition a little - even if you're a good climber it's a huge route for a first alpine route and it's a bit different to a day at Stanage...
 David Rose 01 Feb 2011
In reply to southernclimber: I am astonished that anyone would even consider this as a first Alpine route. It's 1,000 metres high, and in June the approach could be very serious, even if the climb is dry - which it likely won't be. People have died falling from those ledges. And as others have commented, the descent is long and complicated. None of the climbing is terribly difficult: British 5a at the most. But done with a pack, without experience: insane.
Removed User 01 Feb 2011
In reply to davidoldfart:

Agreed. If you want to go to the Bregalia and do a long rock route do somethink like Punta Albegnia (spelling).

Its actually longer the the Cassin at 23 pitches and the hardest section is about the same gradeat Fr 5c+ (althpough short and probably overgraded).

BUT big BUT. The approach is obvious and safe. The descent is obvious and safe, two short abseils and a walk.

Now that is more like it for a first alpine rock route.

Gary.



 Rich 01 Feb 2011
In reply to Removed User:
I think the route Gary is referring to is the Via Steiger on Punta Albigna. It's also got the advantage of an optional walk off descent after about 15 pitches if the weather craps up. The Via Meuli is on the same bit of rock, a couple of grades easier and the same options to descend or continue to top of Punta Albigna on same final pitches of Steiger. Have done all combinations and very worthwhile. Can also be done from first cable car from valley in a day. Would really recommend these to get used to moving quickly. Plaisir Sud is a good guidebook.

We were out in early July last year and the approach to the Cassin from the Sasc Fura was still snowed out. I think it got done for the first time right at the end of our trip. Conditions can obviously vary but June is early. Local guide reckoned the orignal approach would be needed from teh Sciora hut if we wanted to do it ... and that would def need ice axe & crampons. Have also done the descent from Badile to Gianetti and it is pretty straight forward. we descended to valley in Italy and got public transport back round to Bondo. Just as quick as hiking out!
 sutty 01 Feb 2011
In reply to davidoldfart:

I am astonished that an old fart would fall for a troll like this. Newly registered and no history, so probably someone who has already done it or someone who has done so little they would die on it if there was a bit of snow on it.

Would you decide to do a route like it without reading up on it first to see what it is like?

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