UKC

Some pretty impressive climbing taking place at the moment from Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer:

http://cargocollective.com/hans-hornberger/#940030/Scotland-Roadtrip-2011

and

http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/01/first-winter-route-of-season.html

Daddy Longlegs, To Those who Wait, Triple X, Happy Tyroleans, Demon Direct ..... looks like Ines Papert is getting the hang of Scottish Winter Climbing

PS. Great photos from Hans Hornberger.

In reply to Tom Knowles:


Some very good photos there from angles you don't often see in Scottish climbing pics.

Good stuff!

It appears Ines and Charly managed a new IX,9 today in Coire an Lochain. Their roadtrip is very quickly resembling a 21st century equivalent of the 1960 Smith-Marshall week.

In reply to Tom Knowles: Takes the steeeeep wall between Fallout Corner and War & Peace. Awesome lead by Ines in buffeting wind, ripping hooks...all got a bit exciting!

In reply to Simon Yearsley:

Rule No.1 - never tell a young man about a new line I should have learned

In reply to Simon Yearsley: Fantastic effort and surely worthy of a write up on UKC, but I guess it´s coming any day soon.

Any ideas of Ines thoughts on rough M-grades for the routes shes done? (For foreigners like me it says more of the tech/phys difficulty than the scottish grade)

Is Hans making a film as well? I sure hope so, Ines is a joy to watch climbing!

In reply to Simon Yearsley: Hmm at plus 7 in the car park we didn't bother walking in, wrong attitude I suppose!

In reply to frost: yeah, the temps weren't too encouraging, but looking at the forecast we'd decided to leave just before 7 when it was +3 in coire cas. Freezing level was about 950, but rose as per the forecast during the day so, after Neil & I had done Fallout Corner and Ines & Charly their line, it was well above freezing and everything was stripping fast. Plus 7 when we got back to the vans.

In reply to DanielJ: Hans is making another film. He was ill on Monday, but the stuff he has from the rest of the trip I'm sure will make a movie as good as last time. Note sure re grades - will leave that to Ines & Charly.

In reply to Wry Gob: You took the words out of my mouth man. Very annoying.

In reply to Wry Gob: I'm afraid I did give the list of lists (well not all of it) to Ines before her trip. This was before you laid you tools on that frosty stone. Still it was the most obvious gap in the whole corrie!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Oooh Ian you naughty boy! Looks like you gave them the WRONG list though, which is great Nice bit of decoy action; clever, very clever.

I do hope however that just because you're arms are barely strong enough to masturbate (and at such a critical time!:-D) you're not going to make a habit of spilling the beans like this?!

Cheers, Guy

In reply to Wry Gob:

It was less contrived than that on the day as Charlie and Ines were scoping another great looking line elsewhere in the corrie!

We all headed over to No 4 as it seemed like the most sheltered area (on a windy day) and while gearing up chatted about the wall right of fallout!

maybe i'm naive!!

Neil

In reply to geezer:

Where did they go exactly?

In reply to Wry Gob: started about 5m right of FC, then up the very thin left facing 'mini-corner' about 2-3m left of War & Peace. Photo on Hans's site (http://cargocollective.com/hans-hornberger#940030/Scotland-Roadtrip-2011), plus should be a wee photo on Simon's Scottishwinter pretty soon. I have more photos if that would help..?

In reply to Simon Yearsley:

I spoke to Ines and Charly today, and from what they told me, it sounds like they joined War and Peace and did the last pitch of this route.

In reply to Greg Boswell:

.."it sounds like they joined War and Peace and did the last pitch of this route."

...and also some of the summer line's first pitch.

A good account of the road trip is here, written by Ines herself:

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37...

It's reassuring to see that a country with such small hills can inspire a climber with such broad experiences. I seem to remember Marko Prezelj feeling similarly awakened after he visited Scotland a number of years ago.

In reply to Tom Knowles: I like the bit about getting lost and not having a compass. I mean you'd have to be a real tourist punter to not have a compass in Scotland!

In reply to Tom Knowles: Shame such an inspiring visit seems to create a miserly response from some of the 'leading lights' in winter climbing though!

In reply to whispering nic: In what way?

In reply to Morgan Woods:

and is a grade X onsight (Happy Tyroleans) the hardest yet?

Has any British woman even come close to a ticklist like this:

26/01/2011 - Cairngorms, Coire an Lochain: Daddy Longlegs VIII, 9 on-sight
27/01/2011 - Ben Nevis: first repeat "To those who wait" IX, 9 (f.a. Greg Boswell & Will Sim 31/12/2010)
28/01/2011 - Ben Nevis: first ascent "Triple X" VIII, 8 on-sight (Ines Papert, Charly Fritzer & Dave Macleod)
29/01/2011 - Cairngorms: "The demon direct" IX, 9 “Happy Tyroleans" X/10 on-sight
31/01/2011 - Cairngorms: Coire an Lochain: "Savage Slit" V, 6 and first ascent "Bavarinthia" IX, 9 on- sight (Ines Papert & Charly Fritzer 31/01/2011)

In reply to Morgan: Greg B onsighted Happy Tyroleans a fews ago (before euro arrival)and, Guy and Petre Mac's new route on shelterstone (temple pilots) thye recon is grade X..... onsight. Not bad.

Andy

hi everybody, nice platform here
i just want to let all you guys know, that i feel realy happy about getting in touch with so many scotish climbers. without all your support we would never have climbed that much phantastic routes. sorry for the wrong grade, planetmountain was publishing the tyroleans. of corse its not harder than 9.
but beside that, i have not redpointed "to those who wait". it was just charly.
and promise! we will bring a compass next time, but you know...we are stupid german tourists, who climbs only in good weather in the alps.
thats it.
thanks to the guy, who gave my ice tools back to me, after somebody took them of the gearbox. so i dont have to quit ice climbing. lucky!!!

again...thanks you guys for the phantastic trip- we realy apreciate that and hope to see you at our places as well, one day.
ines

In reply to ines papert:

Respect to you Ines; it's fantastic to see talented visitors being inspired by our awkward little cliffs and challenging ethics. Keep coming back!

In reply to ines papert:

Hi Ines. I've just finished reading "Im Eis", so it's great to hear that you're having a good time in Scotland.

Alles Gute und viel Spass.

In reply to ines papert: Hi Ines, you have joined the long line of very talented climbers getting lost in Scotland! It might have been Alan Hinkes (first Brit to do the 14 8000ers) who told of getting to the top of Ben Nevis in a storm to pull out his map only to find it was of the Cairngorms. Then Godfrey Perroux wrote about his first trip to Ben Nevis, where he the famous French mountain guide didn't have a map or compass and they ended up having to be led down by some young British lads! Mick Fowler also has a story about climbing with two equally experienced friends, but none of them remembering which end of the compass needle is meant to point north. So you are in very good company!

Glad you had a great trip. Thanks for all the updates and pictures. Very inspiring!

In reply to ines papert:

Coire an Lochain is harder to find than you might think. John Lyall and I, who'd been the the corrie hundreds of times, went via the top of "Lurchers Ridge" - the ridge well west of the corrie - to do the first ascent of Ventriloquist. We hadn't taken a map and compass that day.

In reply to ines papert:

Well done Ines, super-inspiring road trip. It might be argued that you were bound to get into a spot of navigational difficulty if you went out climbing hard in all weathers - which you clearly did! Has Charly learned to put a few runners in yet? I'm dissapointed you didn't make it over to the Shelter stone, but then maybe I'm a bit biased (I did tell Parnell to try and persuade you).

Good luck on Kyzyl this year; I wish I could go back (did you spot the ice-choked chimney a few hundred metres down the glacier into China? Oh my god...)

Cheers, Guy

In reply to ines papert:
Innes ,glad you enjoyed your recent trip to Scotland.Next time lets hope you may sample longer routes.Ignore Guy's comments on navigation,he's been lost on the Ben for want of a map and compass,and yet better once went to the Grandes Jorasses via the Valle Blanche.

In reply to iceox:
But a map and compass would relegate the hardcore climber into the bumbly world of the winter hillwalker, and we can't be having that now, can we!!

In reply to iceox:

Ooooooohhh Graham, you little Brat - and to think you once wanted to be my gay lover! So bitter since I turned you down. Still, I guess you've found solace in Liz J?

In reply to Wry Gob: Must be that Big Gob of yours.How could anyone resist that?