UKC

Starting on 30th January 2011, 3 French climbers climbed most of the Harlin direct over 7 days this last week. Incessant cold and wind forcing them to exit via the white spider. Route was climbed alpine style.
Two of the group - Pat Glairon-Rappaz and Cédric PERILLAT-MERCEROZ recently repeated Rolling Stones on the Jorasses between 14th and 18th Jan 2011.
Hats off to them for such a fantastic effort. More info in French here:

http://grimpefaverges.over-blog.com/categorie-11632312.html

In reply to manumartin:

Nearly impressed

In reply to JJL:

Me too!

Bon effort

In reply to manumartin: The weather was too bad so they did the white spider Hardcore.

In reply to Roberttaylor: yeh defo hardcore when the white spider is 'the easy way out!'

In reply to manumartin: isn't this part of a trilogie by one of them (Pat Glairon-Rappaz ?), with hard routes on the Jorasses, Matterhorn & now the Eiger ?

Odd that they credit Tobin Sorenson with a solo of the Harlin route and forgot that Alex MacIntyre was also there

In reply to Doug: The GJ climb sounds interesting. A rock shoe on one foot and a big boot on the other!

In reply to manumartin:

Cool, but since when did anybody almost climbing something become news?

In reply to jackcarr:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58400

In reply to jackcarr:

Mallory and Irvine. Hinterstoisser and Kurtz. Mehringer and Sedelmayer. Etc etc.
Buy a dictionary.

In reply to Chris the Tall: since they had the balls to spend 7 days on the face

In reply to estivator:


I find dictionaries are a bit light on alpine history...

In reply to estivator:

Repeats aren't first ascents, nor has anyone died. Ridiculous comparison.

In reply to jackcarr:

It is news when people are interested in it - what ever the reason for that interest.

How is it that Tobin Sorenson and Alex MacIntyre could do this route 30+ years ago and actually finish the climb? I missed something I guess.

""October 1977 and the fourth overall ascent before it was climbed in alpine style. Alex MacIntyre and American Tobin Sorenson completed the ascent over five days, with Sorenson freeing the famous A3 Kor Traverse on the Central Pillar with just ONE point of aid."

In reply to Dane1:

Didn't McIntyre say they freed it because they couldn't see the aid placements or something like that?

ALC

In reply to a lakeland climber:

Hmmm. We had to climb it free because we couldn't aid it? Excellent, I can see I'll be using that one sometime

Even better is that Roger Schali and Simon Gietl have just done the Heckmair route in 4 hrs 25 mins which is the new team speed record.

In reply to Dane1:

As I'm sure you know, Tobin was a quite exceptional climber. Alex wasn't too shabby either but I think Tobin did most of the leading.

In a subject close to your heart, a pal of mine inherited the pack Tobin used for the 5 days. It was 35 litres at most. I don't know what gear they took but it can't have been much.

In reply to flaneur: Hey Dane1 and flaneur - Tobin and Dirty Alex used my 200 foot hawser laid 8mm ropes and Black Nicks hardware .... we didn't get them back!!!!

In reply to jackcarr: It's full on front page news now!!

In reply to manumartin:

Why do you seem to be offended by this being considered news? I was interested to read the article and am pleased they have reported on it, news isn't just about sensationalism it's about general interest. They may not have completed the intended climb but showed strength in knowing when to back off.

It is always a good thing to hear about pro's turning back or altering plans based on conditions because those who aspire to follow in the footsteps of those they admire will see that this sport is as much about compromise and timing as it is skill and mental grit!

It's a good report if you ask me.

In reply to PebblePusher: I was not the offended party. It was me who posted originally on Feb 9th. I am full of admiration for those involved.
Cheers

In reply to manumartin:

For the record, I'm not 'offended', I just don't think it's particularly newsworthy.

I 'almost' didn't get out of bed this morning, then remembered I had to go to work.