/ NEWS: FRI NIGHT VID: Profile - Sam Elias - Hard Ice and Mixed
"Sam Elias may have been a ski racer growing up but now he's a rock and ice hard charger with numerous 5.14 and M12 redpoints and first ascents to his credit..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60316
I have to say I rather enjoyed that video!
If that was what top-level mixed climbing is like now then it's confirmed my suspicion that I will never understand it.
Ice climbing I get. But this I just cannot fathom. I'm not denegrating the achievements - I'm sure they're incredibly hard routes to do either as rock or mixed routes and take a lot of skill etc. But why not wait until that small amount of ice disappears and then just rock climb it?
Each to their own I suppose...
I think what he refers to as mixed climbing we would call dry tooling with a bit of ice, given that the rock is pretty much dry.
good question....i love the scrape of crampons and axes on rock (where ethics allow) so i think this steeper mixed/dry tooling is an extension of more traditional forms. It certainly allows for more gymnastic moves and i think generally it tends to be on rock that is chossy enough not to get climbed on in summer. Cant speak for the venues in this rather good video but i guess Rifle is a popular climbing venue so not sure how these routes co-exist.
Others - Those denigrating are probably just the usual UKC mix of anti-americanism and armchair punterism which i don't understand.
To put it into perspective i've done ridge climbs in scotland that have the same ratio of rock to ice....does that make me a douche?
edit - approximate quote : "both black diamond and me are big into skiing and climbing " or whatever is perhaps a bit douchey :p
good vid, good climbing.
Not to seem to supportive of him here, as he comes across as a bit of a pretentious twit in the video but he climbs 8b+/c. Not sure that is a guy who "can't climb rock". Also not wishing to sound like a broken record but many,many UK mixed climbs (babylon, hurting, fallout etc etc etc) have no ice on them at all, his did have some.
I thought the video was great, the climbing looked like a lot of fun and the guy seemed to be enjoying himself. Surely that's why we climb, for enjoyment, whether instant or retrospective?
hahahah I love how positive this forums are! They guys is just having fun and getting out climbing.
For those in the dark, those route are probably impossible to rock climb, just check the 2mm hook he's using. And they are probably wet in summer, so those route would never be rock climbs anyways.
[Apologies for picking your post to reply to - I'm just playing devil's advocate here! ;-) And I realise that this specific crag is a bad example, as it seems like it was developed by a local guy purely as a dry tooling/mixed climbing venue]
BUT I'm just trying to understand the justifications.
> hahahah I love how positive this forums are!
true...and while there a quite a few on here saying they don't approve or whatever i reckon 100% of people would love to have his job.
Please tell me you have onsighted VIII,8 (or maybe 7c+) so you sound a bit less silly saying this.
Impressive direct aid climbing.
I suspect he means a bit wetter than that - kilnsey dries out sometimes at least.
Also, to be fair here the tooling routes came first - kilnsey is in no way a comparison in that respect.
As for the really hard routes you may be right although I've always wondered whether pockety stuff might be easier as you stick the blade in the mono and hold the juggy handle rather than putting your finger in the mono.
Your an idiot!
I stand by what I say . IMPRESSIVE climbing - the guy is clearly a good climber, strong etc but it is direct aid climbing.
I do not think this forum is for trading insults.
By the way where do you live?
Video didn't work for me, couldn't fit his ego on the screen.
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