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This summer's Alps trip Chamonix possible Ailfroide (Ecrins), one week only solo with camera and bivy kit.
Iam aware the Aig Rouges has great potential looking across to MB etc, but iam also keen to get a few peaks in.
Probably dont have time to acclimatise for 4000m (will see how this goes)so 3000 to 3500m best,Iam solo so glaciers are out, however iam looking for partner so they could be back in at some point?
Huts and bivying ok, cables no probs
So iam after the photogenic solo-able routes with great panoramic/dawn and sunsets potential.... which routes?
Thanks in advance and if photographers are interested in this trip and you're ok with glacier travel and self rescue(iam happy to attend a wk end refresher with you BTW)drop me a line.
regard shaun
Iam aware the Aig Rouges has great potential looking across to MB etc, but iam also keen to get a few peaks in.
Probably dont have time to acclimatise for 4000m (will see how this goes)so 3000 to 3500m best,Iam solo so glaciers are out, however iam looking for partner so they could be back in at some point?
Huts and bivying ok, cables no probs
So iam after the photogenic solo-able routes with great panoramic/dawn and sunsets potential.... which routes?
Thanks in advance and if photographers are interested in this trip and you're ok with glacier travel and self rescue(iam happy to attend a wk end refresher with you BTW)drop me a line.
regard shaun
In reply to shaun walby: I have soloed routes on Mont Blanc du Tacul but it depends upon your confidence/competence. If there are serious crevasses on that section of the Vallee Blanche I have never seen them. The Petite Verte can be soloed but the danger varies from year to year. Great views of the North Face of the Dru. I once climbed the Tour Ronde normal route with my son from the Torino hut and I don't recall seeing any dangerous crevasses then. That does not of course mean that they are not there. Great views of the big faces on Mont Blanc from the summit.
Al
Al
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
Indeed, that's where Karine Ruby and her two clients all died in a big hole a couple of years ago...
> (In reply to shaun walby) I once climbed the Tour Ronde normal route with my son from the Torino hut and I don't recall seeing any dangerous crevasses then. That does not of course mean that they are not there.
Indeed, that's where Karine Ruby and her two clients all died in a big hole a couple of years ago...
In reply to shaun walby:
Aiguille Moine, centrally positioned, wonderful spot, been threatning to go back up for the morning, evening photo session for quite a while now.
The ladders to get up to the courvecle hut may be a gripper though.
>
> >
> So iam after the photogenic solo-able routes with great panoramic/dawn and sunsets potential.... which routes?
>
>> regard shaun> >
> So iam after the photogenic solo-able routes with great panoramic/dawn and sunsets potential.... which routes?
>
Aiguille Moine, centrally positioned, wonderful spot, been threatning to go back up for the morning, evening photo session for quite a while now.
The ladders to get up to the courvecle hut may be a gripper though.
In reply to jon:
For sure, there are big holes there, seen in the last few days..
> (In reply to Al Randall)
> [...]
>
> Indeed, that's where Karine Ruby and her two clients all died in a big hole a couple of years ago...
> [...]
>
> Indeed, that's where Karine Ruby and her two clients all died in a big hole a couple of years ago...
For sure, there are big holes there, seen in the last few days..
In reply to Al Randall and Jon Yer crevasses no fun at all really and if i am on my own i wont be doing glaciated terrain.
In reply to shaun walby:
A very photogenic angle on the massif can be had from Mont Buet 3000m). You'll have the back side of the Aiguilles Rouges in the foreground and the massif behind. This side of the Aigs Rouges is far more alpine looking and wild than the Chamonix side.
A very photogenic angle on the massif can be had from Mont Buet 3000m). You'll have the back side of the Aiguilles Rouges in the foreground and the massif behind. This side of the Aigs Rouges is far more alpine looking and wild than the Chamonix side.
In reply to jon:
What about just driving up to the Lac d'Emosson car park in swiss land, excellent viewpoint & definetly no crevasse danger for sure.
What about just driving up to the Lac d'Emosson car park in swiss land, excellent viewpoint & definetly no crevasse danger for sure.
In reply to walts4:
Sadly it's very noisy around Emosson nowadays - construction of the big pump storage scheme is in full swing. However, as you say, it is a fine view point for photos. It also provides access to the N ridge of Mont Buet, an excellent outing.
Sadly it's very noisy around Emosson nowadays - construction of the big pump storage scheme is in full swing. However, as you say, it is a fine view point for photos. It also provides access to the N ridge of Mont Buet, an excellent outing.
In reply to jon:
Thanks for that i know that area a little did a bit of snowshoeing there one winter....will look at Mont Buet.
Thanks for that i know that area a little did a bit of snowshoeing there one winter....will look at Mont Buet.
In reply to shaun walby:
I am pretty sure that involves a glacier walk
> (In reply to walts4)
>
> Aiguille Moine....will have a look at that cheers.
>
> Aiguille Moine....will have a look at that cheers.
I am pretty sure that involves a glacier walk
In reply to stevev:
You are right, but it's absolutely minimal. Almost just a névé now before you get on the rock. In a few years it won't be there at all.
> (In reply to shaun walby)
> [...]
>
> I am pretty sure that involves a glacier walk
> [...]
>
> I am pretty sure that involves a glacier walk
You are right, but it's absolutely minimal. Almost just a névé now before you get on the rock. In a few years it won't be there at all.
In reply to shaun walby:
The Moine for sure - I've always wondered about the Aig du Tacul at the end of the periades ridge. It's been on my tick list for about 15 years as a potential photo point but I don't know anyone who has been up it. Theres a short glacier approach, but it doesn't look too dangerous, although there's an alarming rockfall debris path I can see on Google Earth, so perhaps it's a choss-fest these days.
The path below the Charpoua is pretty choice, as is the one below the Envers, with decent bivvy sites here and there.
The Moine for sure - I've always wondered about the Aig du Tacul at the end of the periades ridge. It's been on my tick list for about 15 years as a potential photo point but I don't know anyone who has been up it. Theres a short glacier approach, but it doesn't look too dangerous, although there's an alarming rockfall debris path I can see on Google Earth, so perhaps it's a choss-fest these days.
The path below the Charpoua is pretty choice, as is the one below the Envers, with decent bivvy sites here and there.
In reply to shaun walby: how about the italian side? point innominata?
In reply to Tobias at Home:
id love to check out the Italian side...id like to to the Aig du midi, bivy valley blanch then to the Torino hut is that possible? ....but iam pretty certain that would need two on the ropes for the glacier? Have to say ive seen it some years look very well marked with a very obvious route, ive only been up there myself once so it may well change considerably year to year?
id love to check out the Italian side...id like to to the Aig du midi, bivy valley blanch then to the Torino hut is that possible? ....but iam pretty certain that would need two on the ropes for the glacier? Have to say ive seen it some years look very well marked with a very obvious route, ive only been up there myself once so it may well change considerably year to year?
In reply to shaun walby:
Even with my rather cavalier approach to glacier travel, I'd be a bit reluctant to cross the vallee blanche unroped. There are some huge holes visible these days that were invisible 20 years ago - yet they must be stress points and so were presumably there, waiting....
See the comment above by Jon.
> (In reply to Tobias at Home)
>
> id love to check out the Italian side...id like to to the Aig du midi, bivy valley blanch then to the Torino hut is that possible? ....but iam pretty certain that would need two on the ropes for the glacier?
>
> id love to check out the Italian side...id like to to the Aig du midi, bivy valley blanch then to the Torino hut is that possible? ....but iam pretty certain that would need two on the ropes for the glacier?
Even with my rather cavalier approach to glacier travel, I'd be a bit reluctant to cross the vallee blanche unroped. There are some huge holes visible these days that were invisible 20 years ago - yet they must be stress points and so were presumably there, waiting....
See the comment above by Jon.
In reply to shaun walby: I would 2nd or 3rd... the Aig Moine, if your happy at E1 as you're profile says you'll be fine up and down the easy route. You can do it without a rope, or take a rope so when almost at the bottom you can ab off slightly early down onto the snow, in case there is rimaye where most people congregate before heading off on the 2 main route choices. Courvecle Hut is good too, great views of the Jorasses, or walk up around the corner to see more of the Verte. You can follow part of the balcony to get to the hut, or just head up the glacier (dry) and do the ladders
Northside of valley get the La Flegere tele(La Praz), then walk up the hills behind the Index (limited old snow), follow the ridge and little peaks as far as you like before dropping back into Chamonix itself. Some good scrambling to be had along the way.
Northside of valley get the La Flegere tele(La Praz), then walk up the hills behind the Index (limited old snow), follow the ridge and little peaks as far as you like before dropping back into Chamonix itself. Some good scrambling to be had along the way.
In reply to pneame: yer vallee blanche to Torino would only be with two on the rope.
In reply to summo: Some good info there thanks, ive do the Aig Rouges side of the valley a few times so know where to head that side...with regard to E1 thats my best onsight mate which i think automatically means iam much happier at on VS/HVS (90% of were i operate) ground and in alpine context big boots altitiude and pack probably happier at HS.
UKC should have best onsight followed immediately by operational grade or such meaning what do you actually lead regularly when you got out climbing...ive often thought this would save a lot of confusion.
cheers for info
UKC should have best onsight followed immediately by operational grade or such meaning what do you actually lead regularly when you got out climbing...ive often thought this would save a lot of confusion.
cheers for info
In reply to shaun walby: you can abb all the way off the Moine but your risking a rope jam, it's no hard than down climbing off the back or Idwal or Milestone, just more of it. Most folk lower or allow the weaker 2nd to Ab, then the stronger makes sure the rope pulls through and down climbs.
Italian side, you need to take local advice as it changes, but it can often be relatively safe to solo up to the base of the Dent D Gueant(spelling), great photo ops along the Rochefort if you don't fancy the solo of it.
Italian side, you need to take local advice as it changes, but it can often be relatively safe to solo up to the base of the Dent D Gueant(spelling), great photo ops along the Rochefort if you don't fancy the solo of it.
In reply to shaun walby:
Moine is great, I soloed it several times, (face route) and I can't climb E1.
Don't bother abseiling down, it's easy to downclimb, unless you get lost.
Have a look at the Aig Argentiere via the Mileau for fantastic views of the Courtes, Droites and Verte.
Chardonnett is even better, but not a solo climb.
Moine is great, I soloed it several times, (face route) and I can't climb E1.
Don't bother abseiling down, it's easy to downclimb, unless you get lost.
Have a look at the Aig Argentiere via the Mileau for fantastic views of the Courtes, Droites and Verte.
Chardonnett is even better, but not a solo climb.
In reply to shaun walby: coupeau (village on the north side of the valley opposite les houches has a glorious view with the added benefit of not needing to get out of your car for the photos
In reply to shaun walby:
how do you get to the Couvercle Hut to do the Moine without crossing the glacier? or is the mer de glace safe at that point.?
how do you get to the Couvercle Hut to do the Moine without crossing the glacier? or is the mer de glace safe at that point.?
In reply to stevev:
Its a fairly straightforward glacier walk on bare ice in the summer up to Les Egralets about an hour on the glacier, and early on you can take to very morainy ground on the right bank. Big crevasses but easy to spot.
You would need crampons, but not necessarily an axe. 3-4 hours
Or you can cross directly to the ladders opposite Montenvers, (5 mins)to get to the Couvercle by the Balcon Mer de Glace. Takes about half as long again as the former route, fantastic views of the Charmoz.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=127577
Its a fairly straightforward glacier walk on bare ice in the summer up to Les Egralets about an hour on the glacier, and early on you can take to very morainy ground on the right bank. Big crevasses but easy to spot.
You would need crampons, but not necessarily an axe. 3-4 hours
Or you can cross directly to the ladders opposite Montenvers, (5 mins)to get to the Couvercle by the Balcon Mer de Glace. Takes about half as long again as the former route, fantastic views of the Charmoz.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=127577
In reply to Fredt:
think that path was closed due to rock fall last summer fyi.
> (In reply to stevev)
> Or you can cross directly to the ladders opposite Montenvers, (5 mins)to get to the Couvercle by the Balcon Mer de Glace.
> Or you can cross directly to the ladders opposite Montenvers, (5 mins)to get to the Couvercle by the Balcon Mer de Glace.
think that path was closed due to rock fall last summer fyi.
In reply to stevev:
In the summer it'll be completely dry. No problem at all unroped, as Fred says.
> (In reply to shaun walby)
>
> how do you get to the Couvercle Hut to do the Moine without crossing the glacier? or is the mer de glace safe at that point.?
>
> how do you get to the Couvercle Hut to do the Moine without crossing the glacier? or is the mer de glace safe at that point.?
In the summer it'll be completely dry. No problem at all unroped, as Fred says.
In reply to jon:
Although you do have to scale the ever growing ladder wall to get off the glacier !
Not meant to put you off but I had a horrible moment once in that area. Having bivvied under a large granite slab near the hut we awoke in the morning to find thick clag and fresh snowfall as the day went on we decided to head down as we where walking down the slabs and rocky ground towards the top of the ladders my friend slipped and ended up on his back. He slid straight down the slab I stood realising what was about to happen and watched in horror, but, he slid right to the edge his head went over it and by pure fluke his karrimat on the back of his sack caught under the top rung of the ladder and steadied him just enough to stop himself going over the edge. I couldn't believe his luck !
Have fun though just be wary 'slippery when wet'
Dan
Although you do have to scale the ever growing ladder wall to get off the glacier !
Not meant to put you off but I had a horrible moment once in that area. Having bivvied under a large granite slab near the hut we awoke in the morning to find thick clag and fresh snowfall as the day went on we decided to head down as we where walking down the slabs and rocky ground towards the top of the ladders my friend slipped and ended up on his back. He slid straight down the slab I stood realising what was about to happen and watched in horror, but, he slid right to the edge his head went over it and by pure fluke his karrimat on the back of his sack caught under the top rung of the ladder and steadied him just enough to stop himself going over the edge. I couldn't believe his luck !
Have fun though just be wary 'slippery when wet'
Dan
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan:
Aaaaargh, that's a nightmare Dan! Yes the ladders have not only grown but completely moved location three times since I've lived here. It's the same story as the Requin access, glacial shrinkage and loss of permafrost are proving a real headache for these ladders. I think in the future a completely different approach will have to be engineered for both these huts. As a reference to how much the glacier is shrinking, the Lower Envers Slabs, just opposite the Couvercle ladders have sprouted a complete 50m pitch since Piola wrote the current topo in 2006!
Aaaaargh, that's a nightmare Dan! Yes the ladders have not only grown but completely moved location three times since I've lived here. It's the same story as the Requin access, glacial shrinkage and loss of permafrost are proving a real headache for these ladders. I think in the future a completely different approach will have to be engineered for both these huts. As a reference to how much the glacier is shrinking, the Lower Envers Slabs, just opposite the Couvercle ladders have sprouted a complete 50m pitch since Piola wrote the current topo in 2006!
In reply to jon:
And if you look at the Camp-to-Camp quide to the balcon under the Charpoua glacier - there's a picture of some ladders that I don't remember at all. Last time I was that way the ladders were further to the right I think. And a little scary - as described well in this essay - http://www.drones.com/mountain.html
And if you look at the Camp-to-Camp quide to the balcon under the Charpoua glacier - there's a picture of some ladders that I don't remember at all. Last time I was that way the ladders were further to the right I think. And a little scary - as described well in this essay - http://www.drones.com/mountain.html
In reply to pneame:
Somewhere above Tobias notes that the balcon was closed last year due to rockfall. Whoever dreamt the balcon up, created a monster. It was created to make a scenic walk and to link into other sections to form a complete and circular walking tour around the Mer de Glace, linking the various huts. I've only used it twice and both times there were sections of ladders and handrails that hed been ripped from the rock by a combination of avalanche and rockfall. Probably the reason the ladders that you refer to were moved...?
Somewhere above Tobias notes that the balcon was closed last year due to rockfall. Whoever dreamt the balcon up, created a monster. It was created to make a scenic walk and to link into other sections to form a complete and circular walking tour around the Mer de Glace, linking the various huts. I've only used it twice and both times there were sections of ladders and handrails that hed been ripped from the rock by a combination of avalanche and rockfall. Probably the reason the ladders that you refer to were moved...?
In reply to jon:
It certainly qualifies on the scenic walk front - it's absolutely gorgeous with varied scenery, not excessively steep. But we wore helmets the whole time as you are (were) constantly under potential rockfall terrain from the crumbling Dru. Which might be why not too many people were on it the 2 times I've been there. And then there's the bit below the decaying Charpoua
But I'd still strongly recommend it. Just don't think it's "safe" - if the OP want safe, the path below the Envers is probably the better bet. Also spectacular. But it looks like the Moine via the egralets would be a good bet for him. Also spectacular. Even from just around the Couvercle.
It certainly qualifies on the scenic walk front - it's absolutely gorgeous with varied scenery, not excessively steep. But we wore helmets the whole time as you are (were) constantly under potential rockfall terrain from the crumbling Dru. Which might be why not too many people were on it the 2 times I've been there. And then there's the bit below the decaying Charpoua
But I'd still strongly recommend it. Just don't think it's "safe" - if the OP want safe, the path below the Envers is probably the better bet. Also spectacular. But it looks like the Moine via the egralets would be a good bet for him. Also spectacular. Even from just around the Couvercle.
In reply to shaun walby: Hi Shaun how are you? Any idea when you hope to go to Chamonix. I've been in summer for last few years and I might be there at the same time as you this year. If you think you might need a rope on one of your days out let me know.
Regards,
Chris.
Regards,
Chris.
In reply to chris gooder:
Hi Chris yer that would be great... bit of a rest day for you might come in handy? iam not sure if your a photography? whatever it would be a good crack.
ill email you and see what time your thinking of heading out...
cheers shaun
Hi Chris yer that would be great... bit of a rest day for you might come in handy? iam not sure if your a photography? whatever it would be a good crack.
ill email you and see what time your thinking of heading out...
cheers shaun
In reply to shaun walby:
Yes it is glaciated, though if you go up to the Aiguille de Berenger (sp - I haven't got a map in front of me) from the Ref des Conscrits, you can access the main Domes de Miage ridge without touching a glacier. You'd obviously have to come back the same way. PLEASE check this on the map, as it's just from memory.
Yes it is glaciated, though if you go up to the Aiguille de Berenger (sp - I haven't got a map in front of me) from the Ref des Conscrits, you can access the main Domes de Miage ridge without touching a glacier. You'd obviously have to come back the same way. PLEASE check this on the map, as it's just from memory.
In reply to shaun walby:
sounds like it would be easier just to find a partner who doesn't mind a slow day due to photos
sounds like it would be easier just to find a partner who doesn't mind a slow day due to photos
In reply to shaun walby:
As mentioned by previous posters Balcon de la Mer de Glace is a very good option. Here are some old pictures I took from the balcony to give you some idea about the route:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hukkis/sets/72157604915572602/with/397483462/
And some pictures from other people:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genyphyr/sets/72157601675565517/
When you return from the Couvercle hut to Montenvers you have to cross the dry glacier but it's like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genyphyr/1238444731/in/set-72157601675565517/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genyphyr/46463221/in/set-72157601675565517/
So no problem at all to do it alone.
> So iam after the photogenic solo-able routes with great panoramic/dawn and sunsets potential.... which routes?
As mentioned by previous posters Balcon de la Mer de Glace is a very good option. Here are some old pictures I took from the balcony to give you some idea about the route:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hukkis/sets/72157604915572602/with/397483462/
And some pictures from other people:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genyphyr/sets/72157601675565517/
When you return from the Couvercle hut to Montenvers you have to cross the dry glacier but it's like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genyphyr/1238444731/in/set-72157601675565517/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/genyphyr/46463221/in/set-72157601675565517/
So no problem at all to do it alone.
In reply to Juki: Thanks for info..some nice shots there
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