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Carrying ski's on technical ice routes... prefered method?

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 beardy mike 14 Feb 2011
Just wondering what peoples prefered method for carrying ski's up a route is? Obviously its a pain whatever you do but what do most do? I've seen plenty of a-frame carries but wondering if anybody drags them when the climbing gets too steep...
OP beardy mike 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: On a spare line that is...
 JR 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

I've a framed carried them on routes in the alps (like N face of Tour Ronde a few days ago). A bit of a pain but perfectly possible.

Next step, buy these or similar, then strap the to the back....

http://www.movementskis.com/products-skis-xseries_fish.html
 Ron Walker 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:
You can just about get away with it on grade 1/2's but a real pain if you lean forward or look up as you try to climb the cornice! I've see people with the skis slung sideways which maybe less of a pain on some snow gullies as long as you avoid narrow routes or chimneys!!! Anything harder and I'd leave the skis at the bottom or as you suggest possibly haul if it's a short section. To be honest I didn't realise folk (apart from french super stars) climbed hard routes with skis on as they get all scratched
 JR 14 Feb 2011
In reply to JR:

a few people carrying those skis up the ginat also, enabling a valley descent straight after, so you can climb more than 1/2 with them...
 Ron Walker 14 Feb 2011
In reply to JR:

I assume you skied down the Gervasutti Couloir?
 The Bushman 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

Easiest way I have found is strapped to the side of the pack with the tips tied together with a ski strap. The secret is to balance the ski so that its not too low so it gets awkward to move or to high up so it hits everything infront of you...

Either way its never comfortable. Only do it when you descend the opposite side of a mountain or leave below route
OP beardy mike 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: Just got the guide to the snow and mixed in the Ecrins and they're all about climbing up and skiing down... I'm just wondering how they do it! I'mthinking of using a 6mm cord I've got for hauling them with on steep pitches and then A-frame them anywhere else...
 JR 14 Feb 2011
In reply to The Bushman:

That's the a frame. Best tip is get lighter skis. You can get them down to 1.5kg these days for a full setup...
 Ron Walker 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:
> (In reply to mike kann) Just got the guide to the snow and mixed in the Ecrins and they're all about climbing up and skiing down... I'm just wondering how they do it!

Is it not a case skinning up or skiing down to your route then leaving the skis at the bottom to climb up before skiing back down!!!
OP beardy mike 14 Feb 2011
In reply to Ron Walker: Some of them aren't... they describe them as complete roundtrips with routes up to d+ or td described! So I can't imagine they are a-framing?
 JR 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

You can do it, plenty of people out here do. Just strap them high and be aware of where they are.
 Ron Walker 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

Surely they abb back down to the skis or return by an easier route as I can't imagine them dragging the skis up several hard ice or rock pitches! I could be wrong though!!
 JR 14 Feb 2011
In reply to Ron Walker:

For example the Ginat at the moment can be done from the first GM lift. Carry skis up, ab x9 down the south side from the breche and be back in the valley 90mins later. Wouldn't fancy abbing the entire length of les droites.
 Will Sim 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: This is a hugely interesting topic which i could write a lot about. But basically strapping them as an inverted V is better for swinging than as two parrallel skis.
Big planks are a pain in the arse to climb with. I currently have a pair of 130cm Hagan approach ski's with super-light (and breakable)climbing boot bindings, and a a pair of carbon fibre 150cm Hagan's with slightly better (heavier) Silvretta bindings. These are much better to climb with, but obviously much harder to ski. Yet easier than snow-blade type things some people attempt to use.
I think dragging them is a bad idea. It would cause all sorts of other issues, you just have take your time when climbing a little more technical stuff. But for so many routes its fine, stuff with no technicalities like north face routes on Les Droites, Verte and Courte. In fact half of the routes in Chamonix!
Its something you really have to experiment with, and is expensive to perfect. But climbing up something, and skiing down, with as little sacrifice as possible in both areas is possibly the coolest thing you can do in the mountains, so its worth it!
Will
 Doug 14 Feb 2011
 The Bushman 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

Forgot to add. My touring skis are 1.68 m in length. The French use short ski's on these routes not sure exact length maybe 1.20??? That makes it lighter and not as cumbersome. I highly doubt the Droit is climbed with regular touring skis
 woollardjt 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: Hi Mike, When I lived out in Chamonix i saw loads of people climbing hard routes with skis, i would say 90% of them had them strapped to the side of the ruck sack and the tips strapped at the top. not pleasent to climb hard routes with but as someone else has said the Ginat on the droites is climbed just as i described. Best to get used to it on some easier ground first.

Other option is to haul them up but they are likely to get caught at the worst possible time.

Depends on the routes you are planning on as a lot of the time its ski in, leave at the base, climb, rap back down and ski home, everyones a winner
OP beardy mike 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: Really useful feedback guys... I had this daft idea about trying to do point 5 and then skiu off the top down no.4 as a bit of a nuts day out but I'm thinking it might be a touch ambitious first time out... I was thinking haul the ski's on the three hard pitches then strap to sack and climb the rest of the way... I need to experiment first though!
Tim Chappell 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:


Get a snowboard.
 Will Sim 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: Sounds a fun plan, do it.
OP beardy mike 14 Feb 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell: Why on gods green earth would I do that?
OP beardy mike 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: I don't s'pose any of you have skied some of the gullies have you? I have three options I guess - tower, 4 or 5. Tower could I guess be catastrophic if you got it wrong. 4, is narrow at the top but not for long and its a longtime since I've done 5 but remember it being wide at the top, narrowing but not super narrow at the bottom, but potentially avalanchy... any experiences? I've watched the vids of tower and 4...
Tim Chappell 14 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:


Well true, if the earth is green, I wouldn't bother.

But assuming it's white, a snowboard might be easier to carry up a route, no?
Tim Chappell 14 Feb 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell:

(Says he who's going to walk his skis up Cairn Gorm tomorrow ... )
 frecro 15 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

I took my skis (fairly fat Movement Evolution 177's, bought off these forums earlier in the year) up Fiachaill Ridge a couple of weekends ago.

I tried the diagonally slung method first and found it to be pretty unstable so i switched to the a frame method which was much better, but still a bit of a pain as they kept clanging around on the rocks above me - and that wasn't even on a very steep route. I Think an a frame engineered so that the top points backwards a bit is probably the best solution.

Well worth the effort though - it was one of the best and most varied days on the hill i've had - Solo up an easy ridge in great condition, close navigation skinning across the plateau then sun came out for the ski down off the summit of Ben Macdui and down lurchers gully. Perfect.

Freddie
 Scomuir 15 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:
If I am walking or cycling with them, i use the "A frame" method. However, I don't have my skis perched as high on my rucksack as shown in the photo posted by Doug higher up the tread, as the tips of the skis catch on trees, and cornices, as he mentions.

The few times i've climbed with skis on my back, i've had the skis together, diagonally across the rucksack. There is a bit of movement with them attached like this, but it does mean you can look down at your feet easier. There's always the chance of catching the axe on the skis as you swing it, but at least it's only on one side, rather than both if you had them arranged in an A frame.
 Doug 15 Feb 2011
In reply to frecro: Thinking back, I have tried 'hauling' my skis once - a long, open snow slope at around 30% & hard névé which we cramponed up and as my sac was already heavy (bivy & climbing gear)I tried towing my skis on a length of cord (couple off metres long). More of less worked but can't imagine it being much good either on steeper ground or if at all mixed.

The A frame method seems the least worst option
 JAMES K 15 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: Last sesion i climed central gully right hand with my ski's on my pack in an A frame then skied nbr 4 down.
It caused no problem climbing apart from a heavy pack and i had to be carfull with my feet so i did not catch the bottom of the ski when doing a high step.
Great fun and il def be doing more of the same this year.
 summo 15 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: I've carried my 170s up a couple of climbs, never a pleasure and always tricky with a small bag. I've tried A frame and as Scott says having them lower, putting the bindings between the side tensions straps of the rucksack, but you need a reasonably full bag for them to stay stable - this is rarely the case once you gear up. Tolerance seems to be the word here.
I don't think there is a solution, Will seems closest investing in some very light short skis.
If you're in a pair perhaps the second carries them both? After all the leader has a small rack and the weight of the rope beneath them!
 Ron Walker 15 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

I'm not a great skier but years ago around May in spring snow conditions I've abbed and snow bladed No 4 which was fun. I've abbed and side slipped Tower Gully which was hugely terrifying until well into Observatory Gully! As you know No 5 is a huge snow collecting funnel that spits you out at the bottom and feels quite spooky when climbing it...
BTW wide offpiste snowblades fit in the pack and don't limit the climbing as much
I once met a french skier who'd crossed over from Aonach Mor to the Ben for some more challenging ski runs. He'd jumped down No 3's cornice which was apparently icier than french cornices! I think he'd also looked at No 2 gully. We chatted as he was heading towards the CIC refuge cafes sun terrace for a well earned drink... He had a long disappointing walk back to the ski carpark in downhill ski boots!!!
OP beardy mike 15 Feb 2011
In reply to summo: Hmmm that's an idea! I've been looking at the quiver... unfortunately I need to lend my mate some ski's which leaves me a bit of a conundrum... I have light short K2 Acents - 165's which are dynafit and boots to match, but seeing as he's shorter than me he'll need those, leaving me with the option of either Explosivs at 175 with diamirs on (I can feel my knees creaking already!) or my superstinx tele's which means I need to carry tele boots up the climb... and then descend a narrow steep gully with them... hmm... but the ski's are as light as the ascents... so the question is do I drag the explosivs or carry the boots and tele's, knowing that a pair of boots is going to help fill the bag thereby stabilising it... I dunno if I can even fit themIN the bag...
 summo 15 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: having put boots in my 40/45 lighter bag once before, it's a pain. you need to get most bits and bobs out, before putting them in on top of each other (vertically if you get me), this doesn't work well in the wind.
In reply to mike kann: Skiing steep stuff with a winter climbing sack ,ropes, rack, axes etc can't really be described as fun! - more a means of getting to/from a route quickly. Have only ever done it out in the Alps mind you, altitude and not being acclimatised didn't help but i remember it being a complete thigh burner. You'll enjoy all these gullies way more with just a light sack.
OP beardy mike 15 Feb 2011
In reply to graeme gatherer: Of course I would but then on the otherhand it's a bit of an achievement though isn't it...
 Ron Walker 15 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann:

Just a thought, my neighbours son and friends hired a helecopter to ski/board the Glencoe gullies. Aparently it's quite reasonable if split between a group!
F@bien 15 Feb 2011
In reply to Will Sim:

"climbing up something, and skiing down, with as little sacrifice as possible in both areas is possibly the coolest thing you can do in the mountains, so its worth it!"

I totally agree! That exact thing in picture : http://www.camptocamp.org/images/254852/fr
 summo 15 Feb 2011
In reply to Ron Walker: given the snow dumps that have happened in recent years, a skidoo would just as well in some places. You could squeeze 3 onto some of them and it would get you into some pretty unusual places too. I will await the flaming.
 Ron Walker 15 Feb 2011
In reply to summo:

I've seen several skidoo tracks into Sneachda recently!
OP beardy mike 15 Feb 2011
In reply to F@bien: What sort of grade is that and how far did you go in that sort of terrain?
 summo 15 Feb 2011
In reply to Ron Walker: probably cairngorms workers doing someone a favour (whilst checking the snow slope ) and giving them a lift, I think a lift over the back would be more beneficial time wise though. Avalanche assessor hitching a lift?
 Sarah Stirling 19 Feb 2011
In reply to mike kann: This may be of interest, you've probably seen it Mike: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=447225 PS - gaiters!

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