/ NEW ARTICLE: Tafraoute, Morocco - Warm Winter Trad
"The well featured and easy-angled rock lends itself to protect-able traditional climbing, mainly in the VS to E2 bracket. The crags are generally between two and four pitches long, and can usually be gained with a thirty minute walk..."
Jack Geldard shows us some winter sun on the quartzite of Tafraoute.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3430
For a basic hotel in Tafraoute, try the Hotel Tanger, by the river. No frills, but friendly and at ~3 quid a night you cant go wrong. You can still visit the Amandiers for beer and a look a the Livre de Escalade (ask at desk).
If climbing on the north side of Jebel el Kest, then there are wild camping possibilities. We stayed for many nights at the Schoolhouse junction near the Flatiron, where there is a small almond grove. Also there is a small spot by a culvert near the Lekst Tower.
Just be sensitive to the locals (i.e. no bare chests or drunkenness).
It works well to stock up for 3-5 days camping, then back to Tafraoute overnight for showers and tagine, restock and repeat. Wednesday is market day by the river. A good chance to stock up on cheap fruit and veg.
It is where the surface layer has eroded and leaves a loose gritty surface. It is surprisingly common.
exfoiliating granite is another term, usually granite without glacial polish that erodes in cumbly layers like an onion
Looks like you had a awesome trip!
I did it in 1992 Mark!
The crumbly granite is due to surface weathering, especially of the mica. Exfoliation is the characteristic 'onion-skin' layering that occurs in granite (and causes all the overlaps). It is caused by the expansion of the rock mass as the overlying material is eroded and the pressure on the buried granite is reduced.
Further to Pete's comments - I agree about the granite, but there are people out there who claim to have found some really nice climbing on it, in amongst the crumbly stuff. Details at http://tafraoutclimbing.blogspot.com/
For the quartzite trad there is info and details of recent new routes at http://www.climb-tafraoute.webs.com
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