UKC

A large loose block has been identified at the belay on the classic route ‘Central Groove’ at the Dewerstone on the southern edge of Dartmoor, Devon. Following discussions with the landowner (the National Trust) and at the most recent BMC SW Area meeting, work to pin the block to the crag is due to be undertaken this Friday (25th February). Access to some areas of the crag will be restricted whilst the work is carried out for safety reasons. More information here: http://thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=4150

Cheers,
Rob Dyer
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (English Regions)

In reply to Rob Dyer, BMC:

If that's the block you thread for the belay then it's well scary. Have things changed though, I was told it had been like that for years? (not questioning the action, just interested).

In reply to Rob Dyer, BMC: Do you have a picture of the block? I did this route a few years ago and remember thinking the belay was not particularly stable.

Cheers

In reply to Southern Man: Hi SM, you're right it has been loose for quite a while (I can certainly remember it being fairly wobbly when I did the route 5+ years ago). The issue is that when you take a closer look, it's held on by millimeters (if that) of rock and it really wouldn't take much for it to come off with a bit of help in the right direction. This could obviously have potentially catastrophic consequences considering the number of people who are often found around the base on a dry summer weekend so the NT want to take action, and of the two options, pinning seems the least likely to cause further instability.

In reply to Rob Dyer, BMC:

Good call I reckon.

Amazing it's still there, particularly as it's not only part of the belay, but you need to climb over it too IIRC?

Thanks for the good work.

In reply to Rob Dyer, BMC:

Must be a slow news day for this to have been picked up by the BBC.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-devon-12580156

In reply to All:

I came across the bolted block when doing the usual solo circuit at Dewerstone Yesterday.

The bolted block is infact the main black on the airy belay of central groove.

The block was consider to have been loose and dangerous to belay on.

I have used the block to belay on and have hauled people on this block, ofcourse backed up. In my opinoin the block was "Ok".

I have used the block as a perch to have some lunch when soloing and many a time have moved my whole weight on it.

My view is that it is good it has been bolted. The block is perched on a ledge, and is pinned at the top with a constriction of the crag (i.e. it doesnt move), however removing the block could have destabilized this section of belay or destroyed many of the crucial small flake holds on 'Scimitar'.

Removing the rock would have made the belay more accessable to hidden nut and cams slots, and would have made scimitar harder, and more interesting!

It seems to me, that since this block has been used to belay on so may times (and it not having fallen off yet), it now having a bolt through it and drilled to the crag, it is probably even safer.

The warnings are simple and you should always trust your own judgement.

Cheers

Tom Bunn
www.rustypeg.co.uk