/ Petzl Ange

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creag - on 23 Feb 2011
thegoatstroker - on 23 Feb 2011
In reply to creag: Catch up! hey've been in at Needlesports for a fortnight!
stewieatb on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to creag:

Oh good, the worst of both worlds has arrived.

Compare the Ange S (small) with a DMM Phantom:

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners/ange-s

http://dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=1&pid2=50

The DMM is stronger, lighter, simpler* and won't clog up in winter*, and cheaper.

*The Ange is basically a straightgate carabiner, with a spring inside the gate. This means it's more complicated (more to go wrong) and has all the other disadvantages of a solid gate, such as freezing open in cold conditions.

Compare the Ange L with a Spectre 2, and again, the DMM is on top in weight, strength, price, and function.

http://dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=1&pid2=9

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners/ange-l
danm - on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to stewieatb:

You may be right, but I think I'll reserve judgement till I have one in my hands to look at :-)

A couple of things look attractive, design wise. One, the wide rope bearing raduis. This is much more important than people give credit to. Two, not opening when sliding sideways against the rock like nearly every wiregate does. As far as freezing up goes, it doesn't necessarily follow just because it has a spring. The anti-clog nose and spring design may mean it doesn't.

But, this is all supposition till I have a closer look. If it's anything like the Spirit* though, it'll be pretty good.

*generally regarded as the benchmark for sport krabs for the last 15 years or so.
Michael Ryan - on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to danm:

Video and first look here:

FIRST LOOK WITH VIDEO: The Petzl Ange: a new type of karabiner

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2593
Karus on 24 Feb 2011 - 151.71.72.200 whois?
In reply to stewieatb:

Being a wiregate keylock krab, I think the Ange should be compared with its few true competitors, not with the many other classic wiregate designs (DMM Phantom or Spectre, Camp Nano, BD Hotwire etc.).

True competitors, as far as I know, are the WC Helium, the DMM Shield and the new BD Hoodwire, basically a Hotwire with a no-snag protected nose.

I like Heliums a lot, but wiregate plus spring plus keylock (plus of course low weight) doesn't seem such a bad idea.
supos - on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to Karus:
> Being a wiregate keylock krab, I think the Ange should be compared with its few true competitors, not with the many other classic wiregate designs (DMM Phantom or Spectre, Camp Nano, BD Hotwire etc.).
>
> True competitors, as far as I know, are the WC Helium, the DMM Shield and the new BD Hoodwire, basically a Hotwire with a no-snag protected nose.

Agree. Also available are Mammut Bionic Wiresafe (an even stranger looking DMM Shield), and soon the DMM Alpha Trad and Alpha Light.
creag - on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to stewieatb:
Yes of course! And as you have used both extensively I presume, I bow to your superior knowledge.... maybe one day you'll realise that just because something is lighter, cheaper and stronger, it doesn't alway mean it will be BETTER!!
beardy mike - on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to creag: Having held some in The Climbers Shop, I can't say I was blown away by them... looks like a crab really. Not particularly handlable (which is what the spirit is billed as) and the gates are tiny. Just don't quite see the point, a bit like the WC helmet with the shield on it... just seems like inventing an overly complex system just for the sake of being different...
Hardonicus - on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to creag: These look totally sheeeeeeeeete
ads.ukclimbing.com
softlad - on 24 Feb 2011
In reply to stewieatb: Gear comparisons are arguably all about the criteria you set. I've got a couple of Phantoms, but don't especially like them because they snag slings and wires, and have a weak feel to the gate 'spring'. I far prefer my Heliums, and in most cases will take the weight penalty for the Helium's upsides of keylock nose and big gate opening.
I've bought a few Anges now, impressed with the snag-free nose, light weight and (compared to phantoms) stronger gate return. So they've replaced a few crabs at the top end of quickdraws, where the small gate opening isn't as important.
And given that none of us has tested them in winter yet, the 'freezing up in winter' argument is as yet untested: pure conjecture.

But hey, this is the internet, where simplistic argument is king....

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