/ Petzl Ange
Looks like they are out now!!
Oh good, the worst of both worlds has arrived.
Compare the Ange S (small) with a DMM Phantom:
The DMM is stronger, lighter, simpler* and won't clog up in winter*, and cheaper.
*The Ange is basically a straightgate carabiner, with a spring inside the gate. This means it's more complicated (more to go wrong) and has all the other disadvantages of a solid gate, such as freezing open in cold conditions.
Compare the Ange L with a Spectre 2, and again, the DMM is on top in weight, strength, price, and function.
You may be right, but I think I'll reserve judgement till I have one in my hands to look at :-)
A couple of things look attractive, design wise. One, the wide rope bearing raduis. This is much more important than people give credit to. Two, not opening when sliding sideways against the rock like nearly every wiregate does. As far as freezing up goes, it doesn't necessarily follow just because it has a spring. The anti-clog nose and spring design may mean it doesn't.
But, this is all supposition till I have a closer look. If it's anything like the Spirit* though, it'll be pretty good.
*generally regarded as the benchmark for sport krabs for the last 15 years or so.
Being a wiregate keylock krab, I think the Ange should be compared with its few true competitors, not with the many other classic wiregate designs (DMM Phantom or Spectre, Camp Nano, BD Hotwire etc.).
True competitors, as far as I know, are the WC Helium, the DMM Shield and the new BD Hoodwire, basically a Hotwire with a no-snag protected nose.
I like Heliums a lot, but wiregate plus spring plus keylock (plus of course low weight) doesn't seem such a bad idea.
> True competitors, as far as I know, are the WC Helium, the DMM Shield and the new BD Hoodwire, basically a Hotwire with a no-snag protected nose.
Agree. Also available are Mammut Bionic Wiresafe (an even stranger looking DMM Shield), and soon the DMM Alpha Trad and Alpha Light.
Yes of course! And as you have used both extensively I presume, I bow to your superior knowledge.... maybe one day you'll realise that just because something is lighter, cheaper and stronger, it doesn't alway mean it will be BETTER!!
I've bought a few Anges now, impressed with the snag-free nose, light weight and (compared to phantoms) stronger gate return. So they've replaced a few crabs at the top end of quickdraws, where the small gate opening isn't as important.
And given that none of us has tested them in winter yet, the 'freezing up in winter' argument is as yet untested: pure conjecture.
But hey, this is the internet, where simplistic argument is king....
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