/ Self Rescue
How does it work if your using doubles. Do you just tie off the one rope or both?
Cheers for any advice
treat both ropes as one, so tie both off put prussuk onto both and escape the system.
Thanks for the reply. One more question (haven't used double ropes before :)):
When you clove hitch the rope to the anchor at a belay, how does this work with doubles? Do you only put a clove hitch on one rope and leave the other? Or on both?
Whatever works for you.... i.e build your belay with just one rope if that is what you are confident with.
But I often find it simpler to use both ropes for example one to each side of the belay i.e use your left rope for gear to the left of the belay and right for the right.... a bit neater
I generally only clove hitch one rope to one piece of gear but often have the second rope going to a second anchor.
"I also find you end up nearly amputating your leg"
Only if you're stupid enough to run the rope over your leg. I find indirect belaying off my rope loop tie in by far the fastest and most convenient but sometimes use a direct belay on ledges with multiple seconds or when block leading.
How do you do that? Either the ropes going to your belay gear will run over your leg (they have to in order to get to your belay loop) or you end up sitting on it all which is very uncomfortable and difficult to adjust once you are in place. I'm curious to know if there is a knack. I too use indirect out of convenience, but not if my second is a bit shaky.
Keep the ropes to the side of you. You definitely don't have to have the ropes running over your legs - most people will only do that once before they seek out a better way.
I tried to find a photo, but got bored after a while. This is the best I could come up with http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=96881 just imagine that the belayer has turned out to sea. The ropes and the belay are to his left and don't cross his legs at all.
But they aren't. He has twisted to look at the camera. If he is facing down the climb, feet dangling over the egde, and the anchors were at ground level then the ropes to the anchors and the ropes to the climber will not be over his leg, but too his side. Sure, it twists the harness a little, but it's far more comfortable than having your leg cheese-wired.
Cheers for the explanation though.
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