UKC

I need some advice on rubber! im getting some new boots and want to know what the stickiest rubber is?
pelease help

In reply to clemyy:

If getting new boots is such a big thing for you are you sure you want the stickiest, it might not last all that long.

In reply to EddInaBox: well i have not bought a pair of boots in about 5 years and when i was looking then 5 10 stealth was the way to go

In reply to clemyy:

It still is if you ask me.

In reply to clemyy: What grade do you climb at? It is worth noting that the likes of Pete Livsey and Ron Fawcett were scrambling up E5 and E6 climbs in fairly non-high-tech boots in the 70's and 80's. Exceedingly sticky rubber won't really make that much difference if you are only bimbling up E1's.

In reply to EeeByGum:
Exceedingly sticky rubber won't really make that much difference if you are only bimbling up E1's.


I'd disagree with that to a certain extent, sticky rubber won't make a lot of difference when bimbling up E1s to a good climber. Those of us with less than perfect technique, slightly shonky footwork or poor body tension do get a benefit. If you aren't getting the weight in the right place then you won't be able to make the best of a harder less forgiving rubber, while a really soft rubber will conform and grip. You'll trash your shoes much faster though

In reply to clemyy:

The post asked a direct question and only one reply has bothered to answer it....why can't people on here give a straight answer instead of questioning the OP's motivation. If the OP wants to know which rubber is stickiest what has that got to do with bimbling up E1's or Ron Fawcett?

Anyway rant over.....by the way I's still go for 5:10

In reply to clemyy:

None of the major manufacturers use bad rubber on their higher performance shoes. I'd just go for something that fits your foot and your climbing ambitions/habits.

jk

In reply to geordiepie:
I suspect the reason for that is that there isn't a sensible test for it! Smearing performance depends almost as much on fit as the properties of the rubber and different rubbers are stickier under different conditions (cold gritstone is vastly different to hot limestone).

One analogy for it is asking what the fastest car is, which is a simple question but pretty pointless if you don't know the conditions it will be used under or how it is measured.

In reply to geordiepie: thank you for an answer!

In reply to clemyy:

It's still 5:10, possibly followed by Evolv and Red Chilli.

In reply to Kid Spatula: What about Vibram XS Grip 2?

In reply to clemyy:


Everyone always raves about 5.10 rubber, but I don't think it's as straightforward as that. I find that different rocktypes suit different rubber. For example, while everyone slates it I find that Boreal rubber is the best on polished limestone holds, but is definitely not as good on other stuff (but still perfectly functional). I find Red Chilli and Evolv rubber to be quite good, but the stkickiest I have ever had was some Vibram stuff that Scarpa were using at one point. 5.10 Stealth is good, but in general their shoes don't fit me well so it is wasted on me.

In reply to clemyy: I'd go for Vibram XSGrip-XSGrip 2

In reply to clemyy:

You actually need rubber that is a compromise. If the rubber is too soft and sticky, the boot just rolls off edges.

To be honest I don't think there is any difference between the 'stickiness' of boots from all the major manufacturers - far, far more important is the boot's fit.

In reply to clemyy:

I think the differences that people go on about between modern rubber types is massively overblown to be honest. Any modern technical rock shoe will have massively better rubber than 30 years ago but in my opinion most of the differences between them are marginal. Much more likely to make a difference to how well your foot sticks are other design factors like the stiffness of the sole, sensitivity, downturn etc.

This is based on my experience of various 5.10 stealth compounds, vibram used on sportivas and the exo-traxx used on evolvs. I have various shoes on the go and in practice what makes me choose one shoe over another is usually the shape or stiffness, never how sticky the rubber is.

If forced to pick one I would say 5.10 stealth HF (ie. the rubber used on Dragons) but that's probably mostly down to the marketing.