UKC Forums - Gogarth

Gogarth - Campsite?

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PebblePusher 23 Mar 2011

Hello!

I am hoping to take the misses away to Gogarth for her birthday weekend in mid May for a bit of a sea cliff adventure (gulp!) and was wondering if anyone knew the answers to the obvious questions:

1. Is there a good campsite around Holyhead or do you have to go more towards Bangor to find anywhere?
2. What are the restrictions like around that time (I hear there are nesting birds in Red Wall area)?
3. Any suggestions of routes up to VS that come recommended?
4. What is the area like for weather aroud that time of year? Are we likely to have a complete washout?

Thanks in advance for any responses, I am working some google magic to try to answer the questions but some climbers with experience of the area could probably help and provide better info!

Chris.

Pagan 23 Mar 2011

In reply to PebblePusher:

The best advice I can give is to go somewhere else - Gogarth is not a good venue for sub-VS climbers. There is stuff to do but not much and you won't be even close to getting the most out of it.

If you're dead set on the idea, I stayed one of the sites near Trearddur Bay once - I think it was Tyn Rhos - which was nice. Chilled atmosphere, nice site, quiet, friendly cat etc etc. Usually I just bivvy near the car park though, or drive over from Llanberis.

OP PebblePusher 23 Mar 2011

In reply to Pagan:

OK, sounds like good advice, get down there when we can really take advantage of the venue!

Any ideas on a good venue to go for something a bit more adventurous than grit outcrops for a long weekend in the VS range?

Thanks

sutty 23 Mar 2011

In reply to PebblePusher:

If there are bird nesting restrictions, don't go.

Even in the unrestricted areas there will be gulls nesting, and if you have never been dive bombed by them and felt them peck at you as they pass by it is something you just do not want.

Think of being attacked here;
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=116447

If it is fine, head for the hills, if not, Tremadoc or Rhinogs

Swig 23 Mar 2011

In reply to PebblePusher:

A few bits to do at Rhoscolyn (Symphony Crack's a 3* diff and doesn't even need an abseil approach).

Not sure it would fill a whole weekend but it might offer an easy taster of sea cliff climbing.

Outdoor Alternative is a campsite near there.

Dave Pritchard 23 Mar 2011

In reply to PebblePusher:
Sounds like Rhoscolyn would be a much more suitable venue especially if first time on sea-cliffs. Some good quality easier routes including a superb diff. Holyhead Mountain is nice, good routes of VS and below and nowhere near as Scary as climbing at Gogarth itself.