UKC

Off to almscliff tomorow, western front looks nice, havent climbed E3 before, whats it like? 5c i believe.

In reply to Sam Marks: Can you jam? First time at the cliff is a special thing. Demon wall, great western, overhanging groove, absolute classics. Do them first then see how you feel, I look forward to trying trying western front but I'm well off so good luck man.

If you're looking for extreme ticks then look at both the eliminates, Z climb and black wall.

Enjoy!

In reply to Sam Marks: How well are you climbing currently Sam? If you have pads and fancy a play on an 'E3' you could try 'Syrett's Roof' at V5, thats very good. Good suggestions from Guy as well.

In reply to Sam Marks:
I found it pretty tough, having done quite a few E3s before (but, in fairness, probably none that required steep jamming). It's well-protected, so if you fancy a go then you have only the onsight to lose I found the jams surprisingly good, but I had to make a very awkward and long reach to get to the good ones. I know some people have laybacked the lower part of the main straight crack; I didn't try but it felt improbable when there. I then just got really pumped trying to get gear in on the steep jams.

I haven't been back to get it clean yet, but it's an awesome wee climb, no doubt about it.

Good luck!
Pete.

In reply to Sam Marks:

Make sure you get some good runners in on the horizontal start, I once saw a chap come off at this point and deck out, suffered some nasty injuries! After seeing that when I led it for the first time I laced that break.

In reply to Sam Marks: if you're taller than about 5'9" it's not so bad. There is a longish and weird reach over to get across the initial roof and then the said longer reach up the crack to get good finger jams. Safe enough but hard enough as well.

In reply to Ben C:

No Photoshop in those days Ben. Just raw talent and a complete lack of sartorial elegance...

Neil

In reply to Sam Marks: Like others have said see how you go with the quality e1's and 2's then decide on western front. i cannot for the life of me get the jam to work on the y :O( and i wouldn't consider myself crap at jams.#
black wall eliminate,syretts and bancrofts ro are brilliant as are the others mentioned.
western front is safe as houses if you put the right kit in.
top crag.

In reply to Sam Marks: it was my first E3, so I'd have to say it's perfect! Great route, just get on it!

In reply to andi turner: He's there today, so we'll see how it went!

In reply to Dave Warburton: Well, I would like to say thanks to every one for their advice but after trying the start I figured that I'm maybe not quite ready for E3 . I seem to be climbing quite boldly at the moment but maybe dont have the experience. Lovin the jamming though!! By the way, I shall be trying the route next time I go! I lost my nut in great western though . PS. Andi Turner, sorry for the embarrasment but my dad was your head teacher I am lead to believe!

In reply to andi turner:

Don't forget to "Look at the faaaaaaaarm"!!!!

In reply to Sam Marks: I'm mate did it on Sunday. Amazing route, well protected, he took a few falls on the crux, but its a nice fall.

Get on it.

In reply to cavemanjack:

That's dogging, not doing it!

In reply to Chris Shorter: This is true, however he still gave it a bash. Its better to try and fail than not to try.

In reply to Sam Marks:

Amongst other despicable acts seem on WF within the last year are;

1) Massive top roping prior to lead and to check the gear
2) Abbing and pre-placed gear before the lead

Really......what is the world coming to? Have people got no self respect.

For what it's worth, a lot of locals consider it the hardest of the E3 trilogy there.

In reply to Jim Crow:
Really??
Not as far as I know. Its the easiest by a country mile!
Geoff.

In reply to Jim Crow: I'm inclined to agree on it being hardest of the 3. And I really like jamming.

In reply to GeoffG:
Its the easiest by a country mile!

Agreed! I thought it was way easier than Wall of Horrors and Big Greeny was the living end!

In reply to Wiley Coyote:

Exactly!

In reply to Chris Shorter:

Thirded.

In reply to Wiley Coyote: would say it depends on your style of climbing in respect to a boulderer that does trad would find wall of horrors fine. Whareas a prodominently trad climber would definately find western the easier especially if the crucial jam fits !

In reply to jas wood:

Explain? What a load of old cobblers........the climb is "trad" (whatever you define THAT as - I suspect you wouldn't know), bouldering is "trad". If you don't know what you're talking about please don't try posting such crap as this.

In reply to unclesamsauntibess:
Flippin 'eck mate, calm yourself down. If you don't understand what he was saying, ask him to explain himself nicely rather than getting all angsty about it. There's just no need.

Pete.