/ NEWS: VIDEO: Ryan Pasquill Onsighting Power of the Darkside E7/8?

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UKC News - on 31 Mar 2011
The Power of the Darkside at Matlock Bank Quarry. Ryan Pasquill climbing onsight a long way above his bouldering mats., 5 kbIn this clip from Nick Brown of Outcrop Films we see Ryan Pasquill onsighting the bold arete of Power of the Darkside at Matlock Bank Quarry, Peak District.

The route is either E6, E7 or E8 depending on how mental you are!

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61355

Fraser on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Very impressive stuff. Looks like a nice route. (or is it a problem?)
Duncan Campbell - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News: Now THAT is skill and boldness....he absolutely cruised it... I know it was described as a F7a solo but still.
Ged Desforges - on 31 Mar 2011
Great stuff, looks like a really smart bit of climbing.
supos - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Very, very cool, and super impressive.

But can it really be classed as an onsight with that amount of chalk on it? Surely having every last hold marked up constitutes beta, no?

I'm not saying Ryan is to blame - on the contrary, he too must be pretty pissed to have his onsight experience ruined like this.
GuyVG - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to supos: F*ck me I quit ukc
the sheep - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to supos:
The chalk doesnt have to be on the best holds though does it.

Very impressive climbing!
Cragrat Rich on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to supos:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Very, very cool, and super impressive.
>
> But can it really be classed as an onsight with that amount of chalk on it? Surely having every last hold marked up constitutes beta, no?

I agree... Onsight my arse! May as well have a road map to the top
And all that pissing about creating a boxing ring round a pile of padding...

When are these kids gonna man up and climb summert properly, within their grade!!, instead of foolin about makin 'big E' drama queen soundbites for potential sponsors?
jkarran - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to supos:

> I'm not saying Ryan is to blame - on the contrary, he too must be pretty pissed to have his onsight experience ruined like this.

I imagine he must be very cross indeed! I expect the chalk fairy will be receiving a very strongly worded letter.

jk
maresia - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to NJBrown:

He's referencing the rather drawn out Franco Cookson thread. I don't think it was meant seriously!
Cragrat Rich on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to maresia:
> (In reply to NJBrown)
>
> He's referencing the rather drawn out Franco Cookson thread. I don't think it was meant seriously!

Nah, if it's me you're on about, I was being serious.

Personally speaking I think what Franco was attempting compared to this, is like comparing Man on Wire to a gypsy circus trapeze act!



supos - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to supos:

Just to clarify: I'm not trying to detract from the achievement. He absolutely cruised it, and I'm sure he could have climbed it easily, tickmarks or no tickmarks. Hell, just having the guts and confidence to get on it with no prior practice is hugely impressive.

Not that it matters anyway - he climbed the route, was open about the style of the ascent (it doesn't get more open than posting a video!), and no rock was damaged. So if he enjoyed it, everything's good (I certainly enjoyed watching it).
remus - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: Grow up.
Enty - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to GuyVG:
> (In reply to supos) F*ck me I quit ukc

Me too - wtf??

E

maresia - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:

Oh OK. I thought you were being only being sarcastic and that NJBrown's deleted comment had missed that in having a crack at you.

But having just seen a post by you on the other thread saying "All sport climbers & boulderers are pussys, everyone knows that deep down"

Apparently you are actually a bit of a prat.
supos - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:

> When are these kids gonna man up and climb summert properly, within their grade!!, instead of foolin about makin 'big E' drama queen soundbites for potential sponsors?

Perhaps Ryan's motivations are indeed about 'Big E' drama and sponsors. Perhaps they're just about the enjoyment of climbing a stunning line. Seems a bit silly to make assumptions about his motivations with nothing to back them up.
mark s - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: are you for fukcing real????????????

ive climbed with ryan alot and he his without doubt one of if not the best route climbers in the country.

you need to extract your head from that chocolate starfish
mark s - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to supos: why do the few dicks on here not just say well done ryan instead of making stupid comments


nice one ry
Cragrat Rich on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Blar blar... whatever!!

Seing a guy cruise up a tick marked 6/7m arete 2 or 3 grades below is limit, above padding, while his mates stand there and don't even bother spottin, might float your boats, but it didn't float mine.

I've met Ryan and chatted to him a bit & he seems a cool kid....

No reflection on the lad at all. I know he's a shit hot climber...Just don't expect me to cream my pants over this particular video anytime soon. I don't care how suspensful the tunes are!

My opinion - deal with it.
Ged Desforges - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: Well if you're not interested, then don't post!

This website frequently makes me ashamed to call myself a climber.
jkarran - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:

Do you have empathy and communication problems in other contexts or is it just when discussing climbing online?

jk
mark s - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Ged Desforges: well said
Re:Cragtw*t dick
If you don't like it don't watch it,or don't feel the need to let people know your unimportant negative view

It does not have to be the living end to make it interesting.
Its nice to know what's happening at the top end of the game.
Comments like yours serve no purpose to this thread
Again well done Ry
Cragrat Rich on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

So, is it just me who found it dull then?

Nevermind!

I'll shut up now

Lemony - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: Probably not, you're just the only one who felt his opinion had sufficient importance to post about it.
scooott - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> So, is it just me who found it dull then?
>
> Nevermind!
>
> I'll shut up now

I find your posts more dull.

Dull and predictable. How about you spare us of your tedious comments and criticizms, and post up some videos of your ground breaking ascents so we can all see how it should be done PROPERLY eh?

Thanks.
Arms Cliff - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: Ryan is at the top of the grit trad game, this video shows a great looking route (which he thought was going to be E8 when he set off from the ground) done in a pragmatic modern style.

Well done to Ryan and Outcrop, am really looking forward to the video.
Simon Caldwell - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:
> So, is it just me who found it dull then?

No, it's always less interesting watching something done well that watching someone make a fist of it - Franco's video was much more exciting :)

mark s: "If you don't like it don't watch it" - how does that work then?
lowersharpnose - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

I like the soundtrack, reminiscent of a tense 60s action film sequence.

Ryan Pasquill certainly made light work of it, whatever the grade.
daveyw - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to lowersharpnose:
I think it was from Kelly's Heroes.

Cragrat Rich on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to mark s:
> (In reply to Ged Desforges)

> Comments like yours serve no purpose to this thread


What purpose are you thinking all the other comments serve exactly Mark?

I think you'll find that a forum is just a platform for opinion and discussion.
It's not a support group for seasoned Wads.

You know like.... Well done Ryan. I'm pleased for yer

News item? Maybe...

Gripping, exciting or entertaining video

.... No!

Robert Durran - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> So, is it just me who found it dull then?

I found it a bit dull. And the music a bit pretentious.
Each to their own though.
Is that allowed?
mark s - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: I know its somewhere to express opinions.I often start typing something but stop.sometimes saying nothing or keeping it to yourself is best.
This would be a dream to all but the best climbers.ryan will be super chuffed with it.I wouldn't come on here and say something negative.
All this nazi like ethics is utter bullshit
Chalk on holds does not mean anything.
Ryan has the ability to read a route from the ground and just do it.if he gets stuck he has the talent to climb through or reverse and go again.
The amount of bullshit threads on here about nothing to do withclimbing is shocking.
As soon as some good news comes our way a few feel the need to knock it down.
Marek - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:
It seems like there are different sorts of climbing videos...
The sweaty palms "Oh my God he's going to die" sort;
The balletic "I wish I could climb like that" sort (this one?);
The scenic "I wanna be there" sort;
The grim "I feel your pain" sort;
... and many others.
Some appeal to you, some appeal to me. "Vive la differance!"
Cragrat Rich on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to mark s:
> (In reply to Cragrat Rich) I know its somewhere to express opinions.I often start typing something but stop.sometimes saying nothing or keeping it to yourself is best.
> This would be a dream to all but the best climbers.ryan will be super chuffed with it.I wouldn't come on here and say something negative.
> All this nazi like ethics is utter bullshit
> Chalk on holds does not mean anything.
> Ryan has the ability to read a route from the ground and just do it.if he gets stuck he has the talent to climb through or reverse and go again.
> The amount of bullshit threads on here about nothing to do withclimbing is shocking.
> As soon as some good news comes our way a few feel the need to knock it down.


I dont know where to start with that lot!
You've missed/failed to interpret almost every point that's going on.


mark s - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: well don't for a change.
I'm at the gym and my head is spinning,I'm can bearly type let alone think.
I'm done on it
Not every news story has to be a man on the moon type headline

casa - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News: I quite liked it. Then again i would probably watch anything this hard being climbed. Can't comment on the soundtrack as i usually have the sound turned off, often better that way ;-)
Anyway well done Ryan, very very good style.
Jack_F - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News: Excellent work there...motivated me to go out!!
C coldwell-storry - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to GuyVG:
> (In reply to supos) F*ck me I quit ukc

HAHAHAHA agreed.
jacobjlloyd - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News: That looked like a very satisfying route! Ryan makes everything look easy it seems. In Grit Flick he makes an E9 first ascent look just as easy. Inspirational!
franksnb - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

really liked that, love seeing inventive pro tactics on the safety front. as well as a good route/climber, more like this.



ads.ukclimbing.com
NJBrown - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News: The video is not supposed to be incredible... that's why it's not going in the film and why we posted it on the internet for free. It's simply meant to document Ryan climbing an amazing route and showing how a fairly world class climber can absolutely piss up a climb like this. Cheers for all the nice comments about it also!
danm - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to the retards (you know who you are):

I've got a brilliant idea. I'm going to sit back and take potshots from behind the comfortable screen of my computer. I'll pick up on any semantic detail that I can use to make myself feel better about the fact that I am a shit climber.

The more jealous I am, the greater venom I'll apply to those who are not only plainly enjoying themselves, but operating at a level to which I can only dream.

Alternatively, I could head off to Baslow to fail miserably on some easy bouulder problems. Hmm? What should it be......
LakesWinter on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to danm: Bouldering at Baslow isn't really much fun!

Well done on the ascent to Ryan
petellis - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Looks very very smoothly climbed. Presumably the route is blindingly obvious climbing given the way he never puts a foot (or hand) wrong. In spite of all the chalk it looks like the guy has really good route reading skills.
Enty - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to petellis:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Looks very very smoothly climbed. Presumably the route is blindingly obvious climbing given the way he never puts a foot (or hand) wrong. In spite of all the chalk it looks like the guy has really good route reading skills.

Meow ;-)

E

doylo - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:
> (In reply to supos)
> [...]
>
> I agree... Onsight my arse! May as well have a road map to the top
> And all that pissing about creating a boxing ring round a pile of padding...
>
> When are these kids gonna man up and climb summert properly, within their grade!!, instead of foolin about makin 'big E' drama queen soundbites for potential sponsors?

If you think chalk invalidates an onsight ascent you are deluded. Most classic routes have chalk on them, are you seriously saying that any ascent of a chalked route must be regarded as a flash? Of course it doesn't. As for the next two sentences. Ryan was setting off on what others had thought to be E8. Yes he chose to highball it and padded it out but its still fairly dodgy and anyone would expect a bit of a tussle on a E8 without toproping it first. You say 'when are people gonna man up?' Most people would regard 5 bold E8 flashes/onsights as fairly manly. I'm so sorry that things haven't progressed to E10 flashes yet as this seems to be the level you expect.Must be the climbing wall culture! Soundbite for sponsors? All i heard was him saying it was a good route. I can assure you Ryan doesn't climb rocks in an attempt to attract potential sponsors and for someone who's climbed E9, flashed several E8's, bouldered font 8b and sport climbed 8c+ his sponsorship profile is fairly minimal. I'd suggest that your man Franco is more likely to do something to attract 'potential sponsors'. I don't think many companies would be dead against having Ryan on board being one the best climbers in the country.

"Personally speaking I think what Franco was attempting compared to this, is like comparing Man on Wire to a gypsy circus trapeze act!"

The first accurate thing you've said in this thread. I'd agree that some kid being reckless on a bold route so he could show UKC his video is certainly very different to a top climber in control and a supposed hard route.
Your welcome to post that you didn't find the video very exciting, he pissed it so it isn't. Its just a bit of nice footage for anyone who's interested. The rest of your spiel was just unnecessary and showed you as uninformed and as holding some very strange views. This will probably fall on deaf ears but maybe just think before you write next time.
In reply to doylo: well said
Michael Gordon - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

To be honest if I'd just been shown the video and nothing else I'd have assumed it was a headpoint, what with all the chalk and the incredibly smooth climbing.

I'd agree with those saying the video is pretty dull, because it is! Nothing wrong with that, it's only a video.
shosholoza - on 31 Mar 2011
Mint line, mint climber. Enough said
You guys who are critcising this ascent need to get out more.
Chalk, pads, style of ascent...bla bla bla. No one cares!
Get a life and just enjoy climbing or better take up a new sport.
Oh and well said Doylo
Franco Cookson on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort Ryan, envious of your skill, experience and route reading ability. Looks like a great route too and I can't believe how smoothly you climb it onsight!
paul__in_sheffield - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News: That boy can climb! Well done Ryan, especially latching the sloper on the right.
The smooth climbing style is a real inspiration
Nik Jennings - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to doylo:
Well put Doylo.

I've not watched the video so can't comment on whether or not it is exciting but some of the comments here (and on the Franco thread) are beyond bizarre.
Duncan Campbell - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC News: Well put Doylo.
tatz45 - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to doylo:
So well said I wish I could applaud. To be copy and pasted onto any thread cragrat rich decides to spout his shit on.

And well done Ryan, quality.
chill100 on 31 Mar 2011 - 12.222.165.34 whois?
In reply to Nik Jennings: I haven't watched this video either but I don't like to sound of this. No, not at all. You say there was chalk on the rock BEFORE he climbed it? He climbed this supposedly hard route VERY SMOOTHLY? Enough. I refuse to support and condone this sort of shenanigans and furthermore I would suggest that these "video-makers" cease providing their poorly executed wares free of charge on this or any other internet.
Thank you Sir.
Fire Marshall - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to tatz45:

Dudes.....

All Cragrat is saying is it's a dull video. To be honest it is, hardly exciting viewing. Then again most climbing footage is quite dull, whatever the grade. Personally, I find that although the climber may well be having a very absorbing high quality experience the spectator is left with something rather more boring. Boredom for the viewer usually increases with the ability of the climber as they make it look easier and easier with increasing ability level. It's the same with surfing; inspiring yes, exciting not particularly.....

As for people prattling on about 'keep your opinions to yourself' then I thought the purpose of any forum in the public domain was to do exactly the opposite? Insanity!
Og Mcgriddles on 31 Mar 2011 - pool-173-52-117-78.nycmny.fios.verizon.net
In reply to UKC News: he styled the route i wouldn't care if he top ropped it beforehand either. it was a nice bit of climbing to watch. Being the the star wars name the music was fitting although we could have had some dubsteptechnogarbs instead like everything else
petejh on 31 Mar 2011 - host86-175-219-213.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to doylo: well said mate, take a wad point for bringing this thread out of the gutter.

In reply to some bloke: 'All Cragrat is saying is it's a dull video'.
No, that blatantly isn't all he's saying. Read his post.
Fire Marshall - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to petejh:
Referring to this post pal :


"Blar blar... whatever!!

Seing a guy cruise up a tick marked 6/7m arete 2 or 3 grades below is limit, above padding, while his mates stand there and don't even bother spottin, might float your boats, but it didn't float mine.

I've met Ryan and chatted to him a bit & he seems a cool kid....

No reflection on the lad at all. I know he's a shit hot climber...Just don't expect me to cream my pants over this particular video anytime soon. I don't care how suspensful the tunes are!

My opinion - deal with it."
Fire Marshall - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to petejh:

A lot of the other posts are fairly tongue in cheek! Your problem if ya can't go figure! It's only a climbing forum, don't take it too seriously...

J
In reply to UKC News: At least this thread hasn't been full off the same ols cliched "Good effort" comments. This has been much more entertaining.
petejh on 31 Mar 2011 - host86-175-219-213.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to blokey: Oh, I get it sorry.
When you wrote: 'all he said was the vid was dull ... etc etc' I thought you meant 'all he said was the vid was dull ... etc etc'.
I didn't realise you actually meant: 'apart from the post above where he was talking shit about one of the UK's genuinely best climbers making invalid onsights and needing to man-up..., all he said was the vid was dull... etc etc'.

Silly of me to misunderstand.

- how could anyone take this forum seriously? Seriously.
ali k on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to doylo:

Well said Doyle. It's people like this tool that have made up my mind not to bother with UKC any more. Too many tw*ts with no real interest in climbing just out looking to criticise and wind people up.
Diggler - on 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:

You really are a bit of a cock Cragrat.

Well climbed Ryan. Wish I had the skills to make onsighting look so easy.
Boy - on 01 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Cragrat Rich, please do the world a favour and burn your keyboard.
explodingsprouts - on 01 Apr 2011
In reply to Boy: Can we all agree that the video is more exciting than this thread?
Dave Foster - on 01 Apr 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich:

I think you need to be ignored as a matter of course.

*shit, failed at the first...*
andyathome - on 01 Apr 2011
In reply to Lemony:
> (In reply to Cragrat Rich) Probably not, you're just the only one who felt his opinion had sufficient importance to post about it.

Whilst I agree that C R has come across as a pretty silly person it may be worth pointing out, as someone already has, that this is, indeed, a forum. A place for expressing opinions?

Every single person who has posted on this thread to say 'good effort' has 'felt his (or her?) opinion had sufficient importance to post about it'.

Yeah?
John Mcshea - on 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Has anybody noticed that ryan seems to have ignored much of the chalked holds on the arete itself?
My point being that chalked holds can be as much of a red herring as, a guide to show the sequence. This is particularly so on an onsight, which in this case was impeccably read.
Splendid effort I think.

Jb
Juglan - on 20 Apr 2011
This film makes me sad because everyone goes on and on about 'what a great climber' he and many others are. Why do we have to hero worship all the time? And why do we continue to obsess over hard grit that worldwide climbers, including sport climbers, could come over here, as some of them have already done who could be bothered, and spank them all?

Who cares about this? At least when you watch Ueli Steck videos they're beautiful.
NJBrown - on 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Lupine Lacuna: I think you're wrong. There are a few UK climbers now who are operating at a fairly world class level like Ryan (sport 8c+ / font 8b in a session), with a background in grit who can't climb everything and there are still loads of routes yet to be repeated. When foreign climbers come over they only get on the classics that they've seen in videos that have established sequences - things like Gaia must have had countless repeats now or even Parthian Shot. None of team America could do Equilibrium though could they? And most of Miles Gibson's routes are awaiting repeats.

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