In reply to gache:
The pain I had was in the upper bicep area, i.e. between the bicep and shoulder. When climbing steep routes/boulders the intense dull pain came on almost immediately, otherwise it usually came on after climbing.
Over about a year I tried various stretches and postural exercises with limited success.
After determining that I had Bicep Tedinosis and after searching the Internet I came across an article on a program eccentric exercises for Biceps. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find this article again, therefore the following routine is based on memory/experience and as such should be treated with caution.
Originally I took three weeks out from climbing and approximately followed this routine:
1st week, 3 sessions spread over 7 days:
1st session:
Warm up + 3 sets of controlled 20 second bicep stretches.
2kg dumbbell weight.
3 sets of 10 repetition bicep eccentric curls for each arm.
Do the exercise standing. With each rep. start with the weight high, next to shoulder, and arm bent (i.e. the top position of a normal bicep curl). Take 3 seconds (approx. 3 slow breaths) to lower the dumbbell until arm is at full extension (i.e. hanging by your side). Use the other hand to help lift working into the start position for the next rep (i.e. avoid doing a normal bicep curl).
Repeat, swapping arms until 3 sets of 10 reps. has been completed for each arm.
Finnish with 3 sets of controlled 20 second bicep stretches.
2nd session:
Warm up + 3 sets of controlled 20 second bicep stretches.
2kg dumbbell weight.
3 sets of 10 repetition bicep eccentric curls for each arm.
2 seconds to lower weight
3 sets of controlled 20 second bicep stretches.
3rd session:
Warm up + 3 sets of controlled 20 second bicep stretches.
2kg dumbbell weight.
3 sets of 10 repetition bicep eccentric curls for each arm.
1 seconds to lower weight
3 sets of controlled 20 second bicep stretches.
2nd week, I repeated the process with 3kg. Reducing the time it took to lower the weight each session.
3rd week, I repeated the process with 4kg. Reducing the time it took to lower the weight each session.
When I went back to climbing I have found the bicep pain has hardly ever reoccurred, and when it has (usually after an intense period of climbing) it is at a very reduced level.
Unlike the ukc article I have continued to do on average one session of bicep eccentric exercises per week.
Most likely the program above is not as effective as it could be, or that the relationship between eccentric exercises and reduced upper-bicep pain, probably from tendinosis, is not as direct as suggested. However, the program did work for me.