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NEWS: VIDEO: Adam Ondra - F8c+ Onsight

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 UKC News 06 Apr 2011
Adam Ondra 8c+ onsight, 5 kbIn this video from Black Diamond we see Adam Ondra onsighting Mind Control (F8c+) at Oliana, Spain.

"Gimenez had a pulley system set up and was able to capture the onsight in one single, flowing take, producing a truly unique record of one of the hardest sport-climbing onsights ever..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61486

 racodemisa 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Brilliant to watch this,love his comments about the mix of skills needed to have done this achievment blending his OS skills with his Redpoint skills.Does not matter what grade you climb at,when this comes together as he describes it,i think its the best feeling in sport climbing.
 Morgan Woods 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

un-effing-believable!
 Michael Ryan 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

amazing, motivating and inspiring...
In reply to UKC News:

Superb and inspiring. Great vid. Great climber.
 Lone Rider 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Awesome!
 Ben Thorne 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

I've got loads of comments like "is it onsight when the holds are massively chalked and the moves are clear?", "yeah but he's got the right body type" and "jesus that boy needs to eat!" going around in my head but I'll keep them all to myself as this is clearly an outstanding effort.

To climb so surely up unknown ground that hard and get to the top not looking pumped is incredible. He made it look 6c+.
 jkarran 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Astonishing! Save for a tiny wobble at the top he looks like he's cruising an old familiar warm-up. It's like he's not even playing the same game as the rest of us anymore.
jk
 GDes 06 Apr 2011
Wow. Onsighting a wet 8c+. He doesn't even seem to be trying that hard.

He doesn't seem to be afraid of the odd run out either
 AndyM-LVB 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Two things I always pick out when watching Adam Ondra climb, particularly on-sighting, are his foot work precision and hand-hold precision. When he goes for a hold, he knows before he's touched it exactly how he is going to hold it. And the same for his feet: his foot finds the right place first time and stays there - no messing about.

A good lesson for us all I think!
Amazing kid.
In reply to UKC News: An absolute pleasure to watch. What an animal!!! Really nicely shot in one go, too. Inspiring!
 Jimbo C 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Really Smooth. Any idea what he throws out of that big hole at 4:30?
 Lemony 06 Apr 2011
In reply to Jimbo C: I was assuming it was a towel or rag which had been in there to soak up water.
 dancey1981 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Freakishly big forearms- see around 9:15- and awesome to watch! Reminds me of me on sighting 4b+ at the wall!
In reply to UKC News:

The second half absolutely riveting and beautifully shot too. Proving once again that Ondra is virtually in a class of his own.
In reply to UKC News:

I thought he was supposed to be getting too tall and becoming crap? I'm not seeing much evidence of that so far....

jcm
 MJ 06 Apr 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

When he was thirteen or so, everyone said that once he discovers beer and girls that would be it.
Haven't seen much evidence of that either!!!

In reply to MJ:

There's a certain amount of evidence in the video he's discovered girls, but the effect doesn't seem to have been too bad...

jcm
 thedatastream 06 Apr 2011
Totally amazing. The good camera work gives an idea of just how high and difficult the route is. Heart in mouth all the way up.

One question: who put his quickdraws in for him?
What Goes Up 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: ...and how long is that rope?
 vertigo 06 Apr 2011
In reply to thedatastream:

Routes like that will have draws in them all the time. There'd usually be some local strong spaniards working it for a RP attempt I bet. Shows something for his confidence that he only clips about half of them!

Amazing stuff.
 Puppythedog 06 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Wow, Mrs thedog and i are very impressed with this
 Dan_Carroll 07 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

where's the 8c+ bit then? makes it look so ridiculously easy.

think I might go have a look myself.
 Stuart trautS 07 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Unbelievable skill but boring to watch.
 JM 07 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Amazing! He climbs so smoothly and fast and is not afraid to run it out. How good does that route to the right look!? Humildes pas casa?
 handjammer 07 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Utterly amazing stuff, incredible skill and precision. He climbs with such a measured ease.

But the big question surely must be - can he O/S South Chimney Layback / Shuffle Crack at Almscliff?
 mloskot 07 Apr 2011
Great job Adam.

It's not a critique to Adam, but I would really like to understand current state of on-sight in sport climbing. Since when climbers send a route on-sight with pre-clipped quickdraws?

There seems to be a schizophrenia happening around.
Reading other articles (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2784), I learn:

"Good for long multi-pitch routes and on-sight sport climbing where many quickdraws may be needed and each each gram saved can be vital."

What happened with all those grams during this OS attempt? Seems they have been Zeroed.

Can anyone enlighten me?
 Nj 07 Apr 2011
> Can anyone enlighten me?

These days the draws in or out has no bearing on claiming an onsight. (back in the day it was called a pink point when the draws were in). It makes a lot of sense since on a lot of popular routes there are almost always draws hanging if someone is projecting the route. The same goes with chalk marks. Often people specifically point out that they onsighted placing the draws actually. If the route is well bolted then the clips should be preferably be positioned next to better holds so it may not make that much difference.

For practical purposes, you can't expect people to get their mates to strip a route and clean all the ticks and chalk off it so we have ended up here.

 mloskot 07 Apr 2011
In reply to Nj: Thanks for the explanation. It sounds to me.
 Jonny2vests 07 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Beautifully captured. You feel right there, amongst it. Very intimate, and a very special bit of filming I'd say.
 Keendan 07 Apr 2011
In reply to mloskot:

I think it makes sense that in cutting edge sport climbing people have pre-clipped quick draws. It means that the grade is just for the climbing itself. Everything else has been minimised and is only there for safety. Only a thought.
 Rich Guest 07 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Increadible effort & beautifully filmed.
Sensational...
What an inspiration!
 Jonny2vests 07 Apr 2011
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to mloskot)
>
> I think it makes sense that in cutting edge sport climbing people have pre-clipped quick draws. It means that the grade is just for the climbing itself. Everything else has been minimised and is only there for safety. Only a thought.

Exactly.
 mloskot 08 Apr 2011
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to mloskot)
>
> I think it makes sense that in cutting edge sport climbing
> people have pre-clipped quick draws.

I'm not questioning it's sensibility and validity.

However, once upon a time, someone defined what does climbing on-sight mean and what it requires.
Today, we see many climbing attempts looking similar but slightly different considering the original rules of on-sight. The definition of on-sight is being bent towards needs of contemporary climbing, needs such as being able to perform in 101% of human abilities on rock.
May be angle of this bent is small, it raises questions and doubts. Simply, perhaps there is a need for different label leaving on-sight in its original form.
In reply to mloskot:
> May be angle of this bent is small, it raises questions and doubts. Simply, perhaps there is a need for different label leaving on-sight in its original form.

I don't think the definition of an onsight ascent has changed much ever since it was first coined. People have always been happy since the 80s for quickdraws to be in place with the phrase 'onsight placing the quickdraws' occasionally reserved for people who do an extra-special ascent. Many of the world's top routes now have permenant quickdraws in place anyway.

This original definition you are alluding to doesn't really exist and you won't find any of the world's best sport climbers coming up with the phrase, "he onsighted it but the quickdraws were in place".

Alan
 john arran 08 Apr 2011
In reply to mloskot:

... added to which there was never a widely agreed definition of onsight anyway. Just various people's opinions on what the term does or should mean. Thankfully most opinions are pretty similar so there really is nothing contentious about it.
 mloskot 08 Apr 2011
Alan, John,
Thanks, that brought me more important bits to my enlightenment.
 jacobjlloyd 09 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: That totally blew my mind! A technical masterclass.
 nniff 09 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Spectacular. One of only two sporrts climbing videos that has ever appealed to me at all (the other one is Iker Pou on that mental overhang, Dementia Senil, I think).

Besides which, it makes me feel better about not clipping that peg last week - although the reason for that was that I didn't see it. Muppet

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