/ NEW ARTICLE: Self Rescue for Climbers 4 - Prusiking Up a Rope
In part 4 of this short video series, Steve Long shows how to prussik up a rope.
"The ability to climb a rope is most likely to be required as a complementary skill to abseiling.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3627
"The top prusik should ideally be attached directly to the harness, while the bottom prusik should be long enough to be used as a foot-loop –this may require an additional sling to be attached"
How to make it hard work!!!
Doing it the other way round and having a sling (parisienne baudrier) around the chest and clipped in to the rope with a free running krab will make things a lot easier. Have a look at a caver's rig which is optimised this way.
Hm? The second knot does not look like a Klemheist, it looks like a normal Prusik knot. A Klemheist is a French Prusik with one tail put through the other, AFAIK.
> "The top prusik should ideally be attached directly to the harness, while the bottom prusik should be long enough to be used as a foot-loop –this may require an additional sling to be attached"
> How to make it hard work!!!
> Doing it the other way round and having a sling (parisienne baudrier) around the chest and clipped in to the rope with a free running krab will make things a lot easier. Have a look at a caver's rig which is optimised this way.
I don't agree. I can't envisage how this sling would help (despite being very familiar with a caver's rig), but there is a good reason for having the foot prusik below the one on the harness - prusiks are a pain to release and move. Its much easier to move them up a tensioned rope than a slack one. Having the footloop below means you can fiddle about with it whilst sat down, then when you stand up on it - which is the strenuous bit - the harness prusik can be slid up comparatively easily.
Of course if you have proper ascenders this issue doesn't really figure and it makes more sense to have the top ascender attached to a long footloop.
Why not use a Bachmann with a big screwgate handle for upper one? I found it much easier to push and release than a prussik. Also if the top prussik sling is longer you can travel further at each push. I tend to connect the lower sling to my harness as a backup too.
I have also attached a separate prussic between the foot sling and bachmanns as a back up.
Using 2 Ropeman's (Ropemens?) to prussik you tend to have the footloop one above the one attached to your harness and this makes sense as when you stand up the rope moves freely through the ropeman attached to the harness, but yes with knots it makes sense to have a klemheist to the waist above the klemheist to the foot.
Top knot is a klemheist, bottom is a standard prussik. I did think the top one was a French Prussik for a bit.
The picture labelled ‘French prusik’ really is a French prusik.
Doh. Really must read article rather than watch video.
Yes the French Prussik is a French Prussik and yes I am spectacularly thick.
As a general rule of thumb, I tend to use an easy slip prusik for my leg loop (usually a french prusik or a klemheist) and a more reliably locking prusik for the waist (usually a klemheist)However, the Bachmann can be good for both, and the karabiner makes a handy grab point for sliging the prusik up. There are no rights or wrongs here, all the prusiks work but I would caution against using 2 french prusiks - the length of the prusik loop is fairly critical, if too short it tends to lock too much and if too long can slip unexpectedly - when 2 are used, if the top one slips, it will hit the bottom one and definitely will slip as well! Hope this helps.
Thank you Steve. I enjoyed this video and as mentioned above reminded me that I should practice this in a controlled environment before needing the skill in anger.
Elsewhere on the site
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
A fantastically versatile little pack; whether out running in the hills, hitting the trails on the bike or just running for the... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more