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Just quit my job - Off to Yosemite....arghhhh.

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 gcandlin 11 Apr 2011
After months of agonising, I have taken the plunge and handed in my notice at work and booked a flight to San Fransico. Flying out on 1st September 2011!

Starting to brick it a bit now I have comitted to it, only 5 months to save!!!

General plan is to start off in the Valley and work my way arround the best of the climbing in the western US.

Anybody done similar and got any tips? Things to do, things to aviod? And most importantly, how do people avoid the 7 day stay limit in camp4?

Bring it on!!!
 iforwms 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin: No advice because I ahven't been, but very jealous! Good luck mate, I'm sure it will be amazing!
 Stefan Kruger 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

Congratulations; you'll have an amazing time. We did the same a few years back, spending a year on the road, with three months in and around Yosemite and Bishop.

The 7 day limit in Camp4 only applies during certain times, and most of the time all you need to do is queue up on expiry day and extend for another 7 days. Speak to the 'locals', you'll soon find ways and means. You may need to spend a night in a different camp site on arrival.

Spend every opportunity you have before you go climbing cracks - you may think you know how to do it, but seriously - you don't. You'll still get spanked. Every width you can find. Beg, borrow & steal as many cams as you can possibly get your hands on. Some people advice taking a single rope only to Yosemite - don't. Stick with doubles, even if it's more to cart around. You'll be doing plenty of abseils, and you will appreciate the extra length. Be humble - the grades will feel outrageous until you 'get it'. Try Nutcracker, a nice little 'HVS'..

Go to Bishop. Although Yosemite is a magical place, the sense of commercial circus and over crowding is never too far away. Every climber owes it to themselves to spend time at the Buttermilks, even if they don't (at first) consider themselves to be boulderers.
And most importantly, how do people avoid the 7 day stay limit in camp4?

If there's 2 of you only one person sign in, then after a week the other sign in. after 14th Sep its 2 week stay. If there's only you might have to crash in the boulders for a few nights (just dont get nabbed) or make friends.

Go to Bishop, Jtree, Vegas, indian creeek (crazy amount of rock in Utah), colorado is sick, mexico is pretty mega (just avoid the cops)

American girls love english accents...make the most of it

OP gcandlin 11 Apr 2011
In reply to Stefan Kruger: Cheers Stefan, how did you find living costs out there, how much were you spending a week all in?

Already working on the crack technique, long way to go!!

Cheers

G
 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

You must have read my US road trip thread I think..

wink
 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

You will have a great time that is all I really can say.

On rockclimbing.com you can find partners easily for what ever region you are going to be in, but avoid the cowboys is my only advice.

I always asked who did their lead course, as I did find those who didn't were not that safe to climb with from personal experience. I suspected one didn't and asked him a bit late, after a climb and he confirmed.

Depends if that bothers you or not though, it did with me, but as a result I never really had any problems.. just great climbers to climb with.

Also, on rockclimbing.com they are all about helping each other out with accomodation, whether it is letting you stay over, or hostel etc, and you can view that on their profiles.

If you put a general thread out on that site, and what you are arriving with, level of climbing ability and what you want out of it.. you will get more specific responses. Car, rope, sharing gear is all common too.

hth
 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to atlantis:

One more thing. Your money goes a long way over there too. It was cheap, I had great holidays when I got down there climbing myself and not expensive either.

Just your flight there and back maybe.
 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to crcold:
> And most importantly, how do people avoid the 7 day stay limit in camp4?
>
> If there's 2 of you only one person sign in, then after a week the other sign in. after 14th Sep its 2 week stay. If there's only you might have to crash in the boulders for a few nights (just dont get nabbed) or make friends.
>
> Go to Bishop, Jtree, Vegas, indian creeek (crazy amount of rock in Utah), colorado is sick, mexico is pretty mega (just avoid the cops)
>
> American girls love english accents...make the most of it


American and Canadians full stop, love our British accents, regardless if they are female or not.

 Stefan Kruger 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

The one thing that costs $$ is car hire. Taking that out, we lived on < £10 / day (food, petrol and camping) when we stayed in Bishop. We found that getting a superstore discount card did wonders for the food bill. In Bishop we stayed at Brown's Town Camping (as The Pit wasn't open yet) and did all the cooking on the fire pits, fuelled with off-cuts donated from the local timber yard.

In Yosemite, do whatever shopping you can outside the park boundaries. Inside, everything's expensive.
 Stefan Kruger 11 Apr 2011
In reply to atlantis:
> (In reply to crcold)
> [...]
>
>
> American and Canadians full stop, love our British accents, regardless if they are female or not.

Hehe, Sarah shouted 'for FOOKs sake!' coming off a boulder at the Buttermilks, and a lady walked over asking her to say it again, as apparently swearing sounds so cool in English English...

 markalmack 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:
i spent 4k in 6 months including all flights extra gear etc. My main advice would be to make friends with people doing the same thing as you. then you get to share rides and tents etc, and everything works out cheaper. most of the people doing this stay on the same circuit, so you will meet up with people you met previousley all the time.
If you want a tent, buy one over there at either REI or Wallmart. keep the recipt, and then you can return it before you leave. same with ropes. buy them at REI and they cannot refuse to give you a refund if you have the recipt if you say you are not satisfied (no matter how trashed it is). Have a look on their website first tho, cos they have stopped doing the top of the range stuff, so some of the better climbing gear they dont have anymore.
other tips for staying there cheap found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=429444&v=1#x6073514
OP gcandlin 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin: Thanks for all the advice everyone. Just out of interest, does anybody know how long you have to be out of the US before your 90 day time limit is refreshed?
 The Grist 11 Apr 2011
In reply to markalmack:
> (In reply to gcandlin)
> If you want a tent, buy one over there at either REI or Wallmart. keep the recipt, and then you can return it before you leave. same with ropes. buy them at REI and they cannot refuse to give you a refund if you have the recipt if you say you are not satisfied (no matter how trashed it is).

What?? Are you saying I buy a rope at Wallmart, use it for 4 months and take it back to get a refund?

Last time I went to to Wallmart I was offered a gun trial which was interesting.

That place never ceases to amaze me.
 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to The Grist:
> (In reply to markalmack)
> [...]
>
> What?? Are you saying I buy a rope at Wallmart, use it for 4 months and take it back to get a refund?
>
> Last time I went to to Wallmart I was offered a gun trial which was interesting.
>
> That place never ceases to amaze me.

I doubt you will get a rope at walmart.. heh that made me laugh when I read it.
It's a general store that sells everything and quite cheap, but never seen climbing gear in there!|

 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

I think you can just do one day and go back in again. But double check to make sure.

I remember mentioning the same dilemma to climbers on rockclimbing.com once.
 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to Stefan Kruger:
> (In reply to atlantis)
> [...]
>
> Hehe, Sarah shouted 'for FOOKs sake!' coming off a boulder at the Buttermilks, and a lady walked over asking her to say it again, as apparently swearing sounds so cool in English English...

My first year in Canada had my in hysterics. I had guys over here saying to me, "I love your sexy british accent" with a big smile on their faces.

And female colleague at work saying they missed me when I was on my days off as they love hearing my accent and voice.

 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to atlantis:

female collagues that should have read.

Also some of our words they love as never heard them before, mind you same goes for some of Canada's.

But, knackered was one at work that was a novelty for them. They asked me what it meant, and I said it is what this job makes me.

By the end of that week they were all saying, "I'm knackered" heh
 PaulC 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

You MUST go to Tuolumne.
 atlantis 11 Apr 2011
In reply to The Grist:
> (In reply to markalmack)
> [...]
>
> What?? Are you saying I buy a rope at Wallmart, use it for 4 months and take it back to get a refund?
>
> Last time I went to to Wallmart I was offered a gun trial which was interesting.
>
> That place never ceases to amaze me.

In addition to my last post on this one. Unless walmart is different in the US to that in Canada I have never seen ropes sold there.

And as to returns, what that poster said on returning with a receipt is true, as long as you keep a receipt that is in the time limit for returns, you can pretty much take anything back. Make a lame excuse about it not being as it was described even would win.

OP gcandlin 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin: That is a robust returns policy
 markalmack 11 Apr 2011
In reply to atlantis:

no. wallmart sell tents, and i just remembered you have to return within 90 days.

REI sells climbing gear and tents.

you can take a trashed rope back after 4 years as long as you have the recipt. I know people who have taken back ropes without a recipt, but depending on the member of staff you get, depends on how much money you will get back for it
 Enty 11 Apr 2011
In reply to The Grist:
> (In reply to markalmack)
> [...]
>
> What?? Are you saying I buy a rope at Wallmart, use it for 4 months and take it back to get a refund?
>

No it was a policy at REI and dirtbags used to scam it - anyone doing it today must be a tee watt of the highest order.

In fact I know of a thread which got pulled because someone suggested this.

E

 markalmack 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

i got told any any amount of time, but the shorter you are out, the more fuss they will make when you try and get back in.

When entering the US in the first place you must have a return ticket within the 90 days or you will find it very difficult to get through immigration. If you want to stay longer, you will have to change your flights while you are out there. do this directly through the airline, if you do it through the travel agent you will get charged again when you try to check in to you flight.

If you are doing avisa run, make sure you hand in the form they stapel in to your passport. They do not always take it out, and you may get refused entry when trying to return back to america if they dont get it back! Also have your departure ticket with you to show them you intend to leave the country within the 90 days. US immigration often bullies you into thinking you have done something wrong. Just be adament that you are obeying all their rules and that you are leaving within your allowed time.

also dont forget to get an ESTA @ esta.cbp.dhs.gov.esta
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 11 Apr 2011
In reply to gcandlin:

I did the same thing 30 years ago - flew out Sept 9th (when all my teaching mates went back to school). Brilliant trip, Tuolomne (spent the 1st month up there), the Valley, a road trip to Colorado, Devil's Tower, up to Seattle and back home for Chrimbo.

Enjoy!


Chris
 Toerag 12 Apr 2011
In reply to Stefan Kruger:
Be humble - the grades will feel outrageous until you 'get it'. Try Nutcracker, a nice little 'HVS'..
...and at VS slab grade - The Grack is fantastic.
you may want to do Tuolomne before yosemite as it's higher up and will get cooler sooner.
chill100 12 Apr 2011
In reply to atlantis:
"American and Canadians full stop, love our British accents, regardless if they are female or not."

In general that is true, although this happened to a friend of mine from Britain:
Redneck Dufus: "Are you a homo?"
Friend: "No, I'm English."


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