/ Self-rescue technique – a question
I'm doing some self-rescue homework from Libby Peter's 'Rock Climbing Essential Skills and Techniques'. But I am left with a question I'd like to put to anyone who has been trained in self-rescue.
There are excellent diagrams for the scenario “escaping from the system” with anchors either “out of reach or not centralised” (p 130-131, example 2). However, in the final picture the load is taken by two prusiks, backed-up by a tied-off belay device on the central rope-loop – the belayer cannot escape yet. Can anyone tell me the next text-book stage?
To back-up the prusiks, I'm thinking:
tie-off the anchor ropes with two clove-hitches onto a big HMS on the slack rope between the klemheist and the central rope-loop;
clove-hitch the other end of the HMS to the slack rope between the belay-device and French prusik on the rope leading to your partner (or use a tied-off italian-hitch), then escape.
having tied-off the anchor ropes;
use a short sling, doubled or tripled, to link the HMS on the anchor ropes to another HMS;
clove-hitch the second HMS to the slack rope between the belay-device and french prusik (or again use a tied-off italian-hitch);
I'm thinking, that's a lot of HMSs. It's not unusual for me to have used up my HMSs in rigging the anchor. I might just make sure I have one big-ish HMS spare on my harness just in case.
And, it's important to make sure there is enough slack between the klemheist and central rope-loop and between the French prusik and belay-device to tie the clove-hitches.
Would these solutions be practical and safe? I'd like to learn the tried and tested text-book solution, so I would really appreciate a properly informed answer.
All the best,
Once you have isolated the belay plate (by doing the two prussics thing) untie the belay plate and *slowly* let the load come onto the prussics (check that they are holding).
Now take the dead rope from the belay plate and put it into a italian hitch on the belay.
While keeping hold of the dead rope from the italian hitch take the belay plate out of the system.
Take in the slack on the italian hitch and tie it off.
You are now free to untie from the rope assuming you are safe to do so. You can also retrive the prussics and sling at this point if you remembered to do a french for the lower one as you can gently release it an let the load come onto the tied of italian hitch.
If you're going to need to abseil on the now free end of the rope don't load the backside of the italian hitch directly but create a small isolation a foot or so down the rope to ab from.
Thanks very much Craig! I appreciate the detailed reply! And I had not thought of retrieving the prusik, sling and screwgates. Or of creating the isolation for abseiling.
What I'm still unsure of is what to do when the anchors are out of reach - when it's not possible to tie an italian hitch directly to one or more anchors. I'm often miles away from my anchors so that I can look over the edge for better communication with the second, so I'm keen to know how to deal with this situation.
Link to a video I made, hope it helps
Voiceovers clash, but otherwise good. :)
obvidouly its a kleimheist and using this as strong point is questionable so further stages needed to be considered to transfer the system on to a new and stronger central point, easier to show than write out an explaination
Great! Thanks Mark! It's good to see a full demo : )
It is a bit un-nerving that for a moment it's only a klemheist holding your partner and protecting you, though do I see you quickly tie (a clove hitch?) below the klemheist to back it up?
Thank you! : )
So the klemheist will work around four (two anchors out of reach) or six ropes (three anchors out of reach)?
I think I tie an italian hitch, and tie it off. The reason for this is that it is releasable under load. By never tying an unreleasable knot you can avoid many problems that require you to raise the rescue load!
when ive escaped the system in the past i retie the figure of eight( i was attached to) back on to the krab where the anchors are clove hitched to your rope loop, this then creates a new central loop in essence and with a bit of tinkering i can swap the tied off italian hitch on the kleimheist on to my new central point.
the post above mentions just to stay on the kleimheist, havent though about this but would seem to work as there will be knots in place to stop the kleimheist sliding off the clove hitch central krab.......Rope work gets confusing :D good fun though
not sure on a "safe" way out it to be honest. maybe a sling above your belay plate as a prussick to get the weight off the prussick? wouldnt recommend (heard slings slip) but if needs must. or tie a clove hitch back to your harness below the prussick for saftey, hold on to the dead rope before the prussick and then just untie the prussick, lower down to the clove hitch and re tie the prussick and remove clove hitch, continue as nothing has happened.
sure others will give a better and safer way to get out of this than me.
Awesome! Thank you very much! Charlie
Much appreciated! Thanks to everyone whose posted I've been tinkering happily on the stairs all evening! Happy climbing!
It sounds as though the principal absorbed the principle!
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