/ THE LOWDOWN: Adam Ondra climbs Chilam Balam [UPDATED}
Adam Ondra made swift work of Barnabé Fernandez's 82m marathon of a route at Villanueva del Rosario, near Málaga in southern Spain. Barnabé worked it for three season before he made the first ascent. It should be mentioned the ascent is surrounded by a lot of...
This item has now been updated with comments from Adam Ondra
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61640
Wow just wow
Four tries.. wow.
'And the difficulty? According to his (Adam's) own words 9b.'
Holy. F*cking. Shit.
Jizzed my pants for the second time this year.
Judging from how many tries it took him I bet it'll turn out to be 9a+
Probably 9b :)
> Judging from how many tries it took him I bet it'll turn out to be 9a+
Haha, I love it... he's so good we consider 9a+ a path.
I wonder how many bolted lines there are out there now that still present a challenge to him?
Wasn't he there with Sharma. If so it would be interesting to know how he's getting on in comparison and what he thinks about Ondra's climbing.
> I wonder how many bolted lines there are out there now that still present a challenge to him?
That could be the issue. There aren't as many as you may think.
Yeah, I think you're right... would be bloody interesting to hear. I'm sure we will.
I want to see Ondra do FRFM in like 3 goes now just to rub it in Sharmas face.
I wonder what odds william hill would give on him knocking these off this year?
You forgot violent new breed :)
Coup de Grace
3 Degrees of Separation
Demencia Senil (hurt himself trying it in 2009 or 2010: maybe he stays off?)
Ondra has already climbed around Realization. So is the onsight still available to him?
There are dozens of routes out there at 9a or harder.
I'm sure he won't be running out of them any time soon. At least for the next week or so... Can't wait for the video!
really makes me wonder what would happen if the other top World Cup competitors focused on repeating routes and establishing new routes on a full time basis instead of only doing it in their off season and between comps.
> Ondra has already climbed around Realization. So is the onsight still available to him?
I heard that whenever he was in the vicinity of Realisation he wore blinkers. When anyone was trying the route and he was close by he also put ear plugs in.
His friends have to lead him underneath the route by the hand with a black hood on his head.
I for one would be deeply dissapointed if Ondra claims an OS if he flashes realisation.
:-D like it!
does 4 tries mean 4th redpoint attempt? being a bit slow here.
Good luck to him on realisation, looks to be a different sytle of route to the mega overhanging Oliana style routes. No doubting an onsight is a possibility for him.
>There are dozens of routes out there at 9a or harder
I'm not sure many of the 9as any longer pose an interesting challenge.
How many 9a+ routes are there in the world, roughly? I find I really have no idea.
Whathisname - the 'elderly' Italian slabmeister - hasn't he done a multipitch alpine route with a 9a pitch on it? That would probably be interesting!
I think Ondra should come try Overshadow and Violent New Breed.
He'd surely be able to do them but it'd be good if they actually got some repeats and a solid confirmation of the grades.
Anyway, I wonder what Ondra could do on the gritstone?
What about some of the JD routes like Total Eclipse at Malham?
A better question would be 'what couldnt he do?'
I'd love to see him on the Slate, 'The Quarryman' and 'The Very Big and the Very Small'...Not 9's but would be really interesting to see if he could on sight them...
> I think Ondra should come try Overshadow and Violent New Breed.
> He'd surely be able to do them but it'd be good if they actually got some repeats and a solid confirmation of the grades.
He tried Overshadow last year. He said it was 'at least 9a+'
ADAM ONDRA - The Exclusive Interview
Your Questions for Adam Ondra - Answered!
PHOTOS/NEW INTERVIEW: Adam Ondra on Tough Enough
Adam Ondra at Malham
> Whathisname - the 'elderly' Italian slabmeister
> according to this page, 271 routes with a proposed grade of 9a or above.
> from his 8a.nu scorecard Ondra had done 47 routes at 9a and above. Which is mind boggling, but still leaves a fair bit more to go at.
Interesting list which looks pretty up to date - at the 9a+ and above end AO ststs are looking ridiculous,
31 routes of 9a+ (including 3 at 9a/b) - AO has done 9
9 routes at 9b (including Chilam Balam) - AO has done 4, 3 this year.
So he's got 27 routes left in the world that might challenge him a bit, at a nominal 3 days a route (doesn't sound too challenging given his current performance) that's 81 climbing days left to tick the world :)
Maybe he'll get on the grit then ;).
I like his comment 'normal 9b' ...
My guess he did it on his 4th redpoint attempt... The numerous earlier tries were on toprope-hangdog to get a feel for the climb/moves.
> I like his comment 'normal 9b' ...
I chuckled at that to.
There is nothing NORMAL about 9b.
It's a grade for genetic freaks and pure animals.
I saw a video of Ondra climbing something on his '2nd attempt' too, after showing him working all the moves numerous times.
They should state redpoint attempt, to be clear. I got the impression he tried to climb the route from top to bottom 4 times until he linked it all in one go on his 4th try.
Still a crazy ascent though, clearly the strongest sport climber out there.
I took this as 4th session, as in he concentrated on it for 4 visits to the crag or something. The comments about the kneebars are interesting, presumably this make the route very morpo and gives a bit of a reason why other really strong climbers haven't managed to get up it?
C'mon, you just don't speak the language. When the top boys say 4th attempt about a route like this, they mean 4th redpoint attempt. I don't imagine they even start by trying to onsight the thing; it's too tiring a way to go about it.
. I don't imagine they even start by trying to onsight the thing; it's too tiring a way to go about it.
apart from when its 8c+ onsight you mean !
Indeed. But 8c+ is nowhere near Ondra's top grade.
Absolutely incredible feat! I deffinately think that Realization could be in his sights for the OS/Flash this year.
As for the comments about Liquid Ambar and Hubble (both awsome test pieces in their own right), do folk genuinely think these will prove to be any trouble for him? The guy has onsighted 5 8c+ (One which was wet!) and flashed V14. I really cant see these troubling him, if he ever decided to go for them.
It would be interesting to hear his thoughts on violent new breed (Chilam Balam anti-style) if her ever got round to trying that...
Had to laugh at the gritstone comment. There's always one! lol
this guys so good its almost uncool.
Pah. Pre-chalked, pre-clipped, worked moves, no blinkers. I dont think he can even claim to have climbed it at all!
He had a look at it when he was in the UK last year. He commented on it somewhere I think, but didn't have a go.
Hubble is meant to be only v13 so theoretically he could probably onsight that as well.
How long before Adam Ondra Facts catch on?
Chuck Norris can speak braille, but Adam Ondra can climb it.
Adam Ondra doesn't tick routes, routes tick Adam Ondra.
Yeah, I can see this catching on.
When Spider Man saw Adam Ondra, he decided to call it a day.
P.s. I hear when Adam Ondra bolts his projects, he doesn't use a drill he just uses blue tac.
> I like his comment 'normal 9b' ...
I was about to say the same!
> does 4 tries mean 4th redpoint attempt? being a bit slow here.
4 tries actually means 4 days, somewhat of an over-exagguration by Bjorn there!
"I can't still believe it honestly. I had tried it for three days, hard to count the attempts, since I tried a couple of times only the upper crux a few time in a row."
> C'mon, you just don't speak the language. When the top boys say 4th attempt about a route like this, they mean 4th redpoint attempt. I don't imagine they even start by trying to onsight the thing; it's too tiring a way to go about it.
An "attempt" usually means leaving the ground, but once you've set off you can hang around on the route and practice any bits as much as you like. An attempt ends on reaching the floor again. But it's a bit of a vague term. I don't think Adam uses it to mean a redpoint after working the route for many sessions as he doesn't seem to do things that way.
> 4 tries actually means 4 days, somewhat of an over-exagguration by Bjorn there!
> Quote Adam:-
> "I can't still believe it honestly. I had tried it for three days, hard to count the attempts, since I tried a couple of times only the upper crux a few time in a row."
It's an 80 odd meter route, so a single go on a rope could take a few hours. He may have only had one attempt per day.
Amusingly, according to Desnivel, after lunch he then onsighted La Rubia (8c+) and Queimada (8b+) – seems like he’s upped the bar so much that no one else has even bothered to report these.
And Ethan Pringle’s comments on his blog perhaps put some of those onsights the other week into perspective. I think a few people probably thought that because they were in Spain, they were graded a bit soft – and probably a one or two were. But here is what Ethan had to say about Blanquita (the one Ondra thought was the hardest of the bunch):
“Blanquita is a route I tried in Oliana about seven times and fell from this puta slab crux five of those times. It’s rated 8c+ but if it had the 9a grade I wouldn’t argue. There are many involved and difficult sequences and while there is a good rest before the final boulder problem, it’s still damn hard for me even when I just pull on and do it after a rest. Two weeks ago Adam Ondra onsighted this route. ONSIGHTED!!! It’s hard to imagine onsighting a route like this that would be so easy to **** up, let alone climb on your first try without falling… anyway, it’s just mindboggling impressive.“
Anyway, after a long period with not much increase in the top redpoint grade, I think it’s not going to be long before we see the first 9c. And ridiculous as it sounds, I think 10a is possible within the decade if Ondra stays psyched. And the routes really are out there – high quality routes in large numbers all over the place in Spain. The future of sport climbing is very bright. As Ondra says on PlanetMountain:
“The potential here in Andalusia is amazing, it seems like there is even more to do here than in Catalonia! It's incredible, the cliffs are so massive, some haven't even been bolted. I don't think I'll get bored!”
Whereas in bouldering, whilst there are a few uber hard projects dotted around, I think the potential is much more limited. There will undoubtedly be some, but IMO the rock suitable for large numbers of high quality Font 9As just isn’t there…
to the thread- astonishing stuff. truely astonishing.
from the article you link, quoting Nalle Hukkataival:
"Chris's point of view is very understandable and although I am against red-tagging, I respected his wish.My intention is not to wage war with anyone or make anyone feel bad, I just want to climb and have fun.
This was not the end of the world for me and there's so much good climbing in Catalunya, that you're never going to run out of routes to try."
if the person concerned didn't have a problem with Chris Sharma over this, why would you...?
FFS, leave the guy alone.
ah, i see what you're getting at.
and i dont want this thread to be diverted into a pointless argument
the climb the thread is reporting deserves better, lets stick to that
Completely agree. Grit-centric parochialism reigns once more on these forums!
There was only one suggestion, and I don't think it was particularly serious.
BTW, if this route is 80 mtrs, how do you get down from the top? And secondly - what are the ethics of long routes/big grades? There are alpine routes with multiple very hard pitches, but if you do, say, and 8b pitch and then 8c pitch together with an 80 mtr rope, can you say its an 8c+ or 9a pitch? Or the reverse - why isn't Chilam Balam a two pitch route?
>"why isn't Chilam Balam a two pitch route?"
When you've scraped out the last morsel of strength gains form the peanut butter jar of life, all you can do is spread your strength thinner on the bread of limestone.
Just guessing here, but the route traverses a lot to the left (see pic here: http://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/chilam-balam), so it might only be 30 meters from the ground at the anchors. So a 100+ meters rope might be enough.
As for not being two pitches, I guess the idea is that if there isn't a reasonable belay stance anywhere, it is better style to not put in "artificial" hanging belays.
or he could just top out?
Yes. Jerry Moffatt.
I don't think you can be that formulaic by simply adding two grades together and always getting the same answer. One variable will be what rests, if any, are like. For instance if there was a hands off at the belay then the linked route would be barely harder than the hardest pitch (just a bit more rope weight) - and that assumes the hardest pitch is the second one.
A good climbing ethic in France and presumably Spain too is to end routes at a natural rest point. Not always a hands off but usually big bucket, sudden drop in steepness/difficulty etc. I presume there's nothing like that on this route.
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