/ NEWS: Unjustified - F8c - for Alan Cassidy
Commenting in his UKC Logbook Alan said:
"3rd day. 3rd proper redpoint. Maybe I'm not as out of shape as I thought...."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61666
well done Alan, an awesome looking route.
Really quit an interesting blog post. I completely agree with his views on some of the tactics applied to some routes.
And good effort on the route!
The context as i see it (as a malham regular) is that unjustified has seen quite a few repeats and interest by prospective suitors over the last couple of years. The topic has been raised by people about its grade and whether it is correct/soft. (cannot comment on this as im far from an 8c climber). And Alan being an 8c climber is commenting on this i believe.
However what also is true, is that there are quite a few strong climbers around at the moment and with this there is a lot of beta available which possibly wasnt so readily available prior to recent times.
Additionally you quite often find that good routes being climbed get more popularity as people see the climbing and are inspired by it and having seen and belayed a few people climb the route its definately on my fantasy ticklist as it looks like an awesome line.
Ha, ha, no i hadn't when I wrote that actually.
Still, if the route were at Cheddar it probably wouldn't have been reported.
ah, I think that is unfair Rich.
There's only Bristol's got Talent isnt there?
and it hasnt been repeated, so if it was, I imagine someone would be interested in hearing about it. And 8c is rare enough in this country to bother pointing out on the uk website that one had been done.
After all, if we start pointing out all the times it gets done in the uk, then perhaps people will start to realise that it is not all that impossible for a dedicated climber?
Go and do them then and get your name up in lights.
Lovely pair of Bristols!
If there are 8c ascents being done elsewhere in the country and slipping under the radar then please post them up because I, for one, would love to read about them.
Get on it Tim, I for one fully believe in skipping grades.
> Get on it Tim, I for one fully believe in skipping grades.
lol cheers mate
> If there are 8c ascents being done elsewhere in the country and slipping under the radar then please post them up because I, for one, would love to read about them.
I saw a first ascent of an 8c at cheddar. The route was named, the climber logged it on 8a.nu and there was no mention of it on here apart from a thread that got no replies.
At around the same time there was a news story about someone repeating an 8a on Yorkshire limestone.
No, another one.
Nice one Alan, you go from strength to strength.
> No, another one.
Hard The proper finish to the empire strikes back,Total Eliminate route! but worth doing. a project for along long time. no holds were use on the 7c or the corner old left. after the last bolt go direct and finish at the block at the bottom of small groove. then jump off as there is no lower off... yet!! Not as hard as I originally thought. 1 2010-05-03
> Nice one Alan, you go from strength to strength.
Sorry, I haven't meant to be arsey and I'm certainly not trying to take anything away from Alan. 8c is a phenomenal achievement and something I'm sure I'll never get close to, wherever the route is. Well done Alan. I was just agreeing with Rich that stuff is more likely to get reported if it happens in the north than in the south, and pointing out that stuff like this does slip under the radar.
Also, if I've read the report correctly, Alan didn't contact UKC to make sure the ascent was in the news. It was just picked up on his blog.
Don't worry Gazhbo I'm not offended just trying to figure out who you were refereing to exactly. You are right though I only wrote about this on my blog and I wouldn't like to be attacked for seeking massie amounts of publicity for climbing another 8c. However personally I would love to know about everyone who is cranking hard routes in the UK. 8b+ and above might be far from world class but this is UKC and such ascents are still pretty uncommon over here and interesting to hear about. Gets me psyched anyway.
Exactly. I feed off other peoples Psyche! Keep cranking bud. Maybe I'll get to that level some day.....
Perhaps local news pages would be good, where people could put up their own news, then the editors could pick the national news from the best of the local pages.
As a local there is nothing to stop you posting away to big up local developments and repeats and get the ball rolling. No need to be chippy about a North/South divide though. Its tricky to take an informed view on the quality and difficulty of routes in backwater areas compared to hotspots if good climbers arent visiting to verify things. Bigging the place up might encourage them to do so. Bear in mind that whilst Malham is a national hotspot it in turn is a backwater from a global perspective but with Ondra having not such an easy time on Rainshadow might nudge it into the world climbing consciousness and inspire others to visit. Where is Cheddar BTW? I hear its full of soft touchs ;-)
There isn't anything south of North Wales anyway it's all a myth.
Cheddar isnt as much of a backwater as you may think.
From the UKC logbooks (plus a few routes I know are missing off the top of my head, there are certainly more):
177 between E4 and E7
180 between 7a and 7c+
25 between 8a and 8c
I would say that 90% of the sport routes above 7a are 'not at all chossy'
The odd hold has been known to come off but that is not the same as choss.
How many of them would you class as 'not at all overgraded'?
I would say that there are more soft touches than sandbags, particularly in the low 7 bracket, but that overall the grades are a million miles from being accurate.
If you are concerned about a particular route you can always ask a local for the consensus grade which is sometimes lower than in the current guide and occasionally higher.
off topic.. but I'd have to agree. being from the South West I should have got a lot more done at cheddar.. but in my experience from the 3 days I have spent doing doing sport routes there, most I found a bit soft. (compared to what I'm used to now - Gower sport grades)
For example Raw Deal 7a (6c+), Joyride 7a (6c), All hands to the pump 7b (7a), Get that man 7a/+ (6c+), Islands in the City 7a+ (7a).
all fantastic quality though so not much of an issue really.
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