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NEWS: NEWSFLASH: E8 Onsight for James Pearson

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 UKC News 20 Apr 2011
James Pearson on The Super-Tera-O-Mega Project Font 8A+, 4 kbJames Pearson has onsighted Point Blank (E8), Stennis Ford, Pembroke.

Brief details here, full report coming soon.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61755

 thommi 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Awesome stuff!! Top work james, super inspiring stuff. cant believe people are so quiet, this is truelly wonderful climbing. stay sound and happy climbs. tom.
 Toerag 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: With all due respect, doing an alternate finish to a route when you did the entire first half very recently doesn't really count as onsight for the whole E8 tick does it? Over-sensationalism, much in the vein of the 'Chilam Balam in 4 goes' headline which turned out to be 'Chilam Balam in 4 days' when reading the article!
Looking forward to seeing More of Mr.P - he's going up in my estimations.
 thommi 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: nice one. you are the first of many twits. do you feel better? ffs, it beggars belief.
 jon 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Toerag:

With all due respect, Point Blank isn't just an alternative finish as in: 'alternatively scramble up the short gully on the right...' It's a big route in its own right.
 3 Names 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Toerag:

Yes it is.
 Tom_Jermy 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Toerag:

I had exactly the same thought, but didn't want to be the one to piss on his parade!
 thommi 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy: really? you really thought that? here... http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=47373 have a look at the topo. of course you are so amazing that you wouldnt claim the onsight, on no. tw@t. the top wall is what makes it e8, the bottom half is shared with 'from a distance' which he previously climbed... on sight. he then climbed the top half out left, 'point blank' on sight. if you want to be a pedant go for it, but at the end of the day it is what it is, an amazing piece of climbing by one of our top climbers.
 Wft 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Very well done James, keep doing what your doing now. Inspiring from reading the blog leading up to this as well.
In reply to thommi:

When Nik Jennings flashed Doug at the Roaches he didn't claim the on sight as he'd previously done another route that shares the same start.
 mark s 20 Apr 2011
In reply to GuyVG: another superb piece of climbing!
By the 2nd post there is some negativity about it and onsighting.utter cocks
I wonder what has to be done to satisfy the hvs masif on ukc?
 mark s 20 Apr 2011
In reply to bentley's biceps: that's nik being modest.I've done both routes and doug doesn't start geting hard until you well away from the left route
 Peter Walker 20 Apr 2011
In reply to bentley's biceps:
> (In reply to thommi)
>
> When Nik Jennings flashed Doug at the Roaches he didn't claim the on sight as he'd previously done another route that shares the same start.

No, he didn't claim the onsight because he seems rather unassuming...and he'd headpointed the other route (A Fistful of Crystals) and he'd previously belayed someone toproping Doug. He posted the exact details on a thread on here.
In reply to mark s:

I know that, I was just putting a historical context there. Chapeau to Ry, whatever you call it it's an important achievement.
In reply to Peter Walker:

I stand corrected.
 thommi 20 Apr 2011
In reply to bentleys biceps: you say when he flashed it, so i guess it was a flash. anyhoo, im inclined to agree with mark in the sence that mr jennings is very modest in what he has done. anyway i dont want to get to into this, i just dont like the way it becomes negative so quickly. people here seem to have a real problem with james and it aint right, he's an awesome climber. gouranga!
chuffer 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Toerag: knobchops
 Hephaestus 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Toerag:
> doing an alternate finish to a route when you did the entire first half very recently doesn't really count as onsight for the whole E8 tick does it?

From a man whose logbook says: "Best Climbing Experience: Having a pee off the 2nd belay of Moonraker!"

Just about says it all.


In reply to UKC News:

Damned sound effort, although I've got to agree it wouldn't be "onsighting Point Blank" in my language. Not that it matters what you call it; it is what it is.

jcm
 Flashy 20 Apr 2011
In reply to thommi:
> of course you are so amazing that you wouldnt claim the onsight, on no.

He probably would, as would you or I. We're not making money from this though, and nobody cares what we do. Honesty is more important when it comes to people like James Pearson because they're professionals, so naturally you're going to get some people questioning their ascents closely.

> at the end of the day it is what it is, an amazing piece of climbing by one of our top climbers.

Yes, and if he was 'just a climber' then fine. But he's a professional climber and so what he does has a bit more to it than just scrambling up rock. Chill out a bit.

> tw@t.
In reply to Flashy:

>Honesty is more important when it comes to people like James Pearson because they're professionals

C'mon, JP's made it perfectly clear what he's done. It's just the headline, which he didn't write, which on its own might create a slightly wrong impression.

jcm
 Flashy 20 Apr 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Yes, you're right about that. I think that Toerag's original criticism still stands though, as I thought it was aimed at sensational headlines in UKC (a common and irritating occurrence; I know it isn't the BBC but I always think a little bit less of the editors whenever I perceive it) rather than at Pearson.
 Tom Briggs 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Flashy:

There's a very, very good rest where From a Distance and Point Blank split (conveniently right next to a stonking peg). Like good enough to recover completely at. I can only imagine that for someone with F8b on-sight fitness, the lower 7b+/7c part of From a Distance might serve as a nice warm up.
M0nkey 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom Briggs:
> (In reply to Flashy)
>
> There's a very, very good rest where From a Distance and Point Blank split (conveniently right next to a stonking peg). Like good enough to recover completely at. I can only imagine that for someone with F8b on-sight fitness, the lower 7b+/7c part of From a Distance might serve as a nice warm up.

if thats the case then i'm perfectly happy with the label of onsight. If it were a mega endurance E8 and the E6 bit went straight into it with no rests, i think I would be less comfortable with the label of onsight.

I also think some people are getting too hung up on the label. One mans onsight is another mans flash, but provided style is declared, it makes no odds whatsoever.

James has had his fair share of criticism on here (some of it quite justified). In my view the flip side of that is that he is entitled to his fair share of praise as well for genuinely good achievements like this, so I raise my virtual hat to him.
 Morgan Woods 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

great achievement but i think it worth asking the question of whether it is a true onsight. I would be inclined to think yes since the meat of the route is obviously the E8 bit not the E6 bit. Anyway it's good to read JP's thoughts on how recent sport climbing fitness has helped and how he has overcome his grit/bouldering focus.
 thommi 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Flashy: I may need to chill out a bit, youre right, but it upsets me for some reason that people are such picky pedants. i wonder how they would feel if they faced such rebuttal for their achievements. its just lame. as for your bit about professional climbers, out of interest how much money do you think these chaps make? they aint popstars you know. they exist as 'professionals' because of our interest in climbing. its a stunning piece of climbing, 8a on natural gear on sight.sorry if i come across as angry but it was literally the second comment in and already negative, its just a bit sad. anyhoo, peace.
 McBirdy 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Ooooh - this is a turn up for the books. I find myself defending JP. I agree - this wasn't an onsight. But then JP never said it was. Thumbs down UKC on this occasion...

Clearly, if you have previously climbed the bottom half of a route, learnt the beta, then exited via and easiER finish, then when you come to do the harder E8 finish you're going to be fresher when you reach the fork in the road.

Hurrah for JP - my new best friend, and booooooo to UKC for stirring up sh#t.
 Flashy 20 Apr 2011
In reply to thommi:
> (In reply to Flashy) i wonder how they would feel if they faced such rebuttal for their achievements.

If they're 'real' climbers they won't give a shit, because of course "all climbing is anarchy". I reckon this is what puts *some* people's backs up when it comes to professionals and why you'll always get someone who'll knock an achievement in climbing.

> out of interest how much money do you think these chaps make? they aint popstars you know.

I know they don't make much. I know some don't get much more than a few bits of gear from time to time. Nonetheless he's making his living from climbing and the actual number of pounds received is pretty irrelevant.

> anyhoo, peace.

Fair dues mate.
 Rich Guest 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing piece of climbing.
It's great to see the British lads are up there pushing it onsight on the big stage at the big grades!!

 Bulls Crack 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Flashy:

I think you need to read John Briggs' post?

Congratulations to JP for flashing the walk-in since he hadn't been to Pembroke before...amazingly! :-p
 Michael Gordon 20 Apr 2011
In reply to the above:

Of course it's an onsight. Brilliant effort!
 Flashy 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack: I've read his post and, in fact, all the others. If you do the same I hope you'll realise I haven't suggested that he didn't onsight the route. I don't even care what he did with the route -- onsight, flash (they're not the same thing), smear with vomit, whatever. I was just making a couple of observations.

If people projected less when reading threads (or stopped viewing them through chip-tinted specs), the number of responses would probably drop by about 90%. Not that I'm innocent of this; all part of this site's charm.
 HeMa 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> whether it is a true onsight.


It's only a true onsight, if you did it on slippers, wearing a blindfold and yer left hand tied behind your back... butt naked.

In reply to HeMa:

Jesus Christ. I don't think there's a joke in the entire world I'm more bored with than the it-only-counts-if-it's-naked one. Could we please have a moratorium? About 20 years should do it; it'll then be just as original and hilarious as it was in 1899 or so.

jcm
 JR 20 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort JP. Some people should really question their motives on trying to be-little what is a super strong bit of climbing.
 Tom_Jermy 21 Apr 2011
In reply to JR:

We are not belittleing it, it is an incredible piece of climbing...and it's not even a comment towards JP, mearly a statement that whoever has claimed it as "onsight" in our opinion isn't right!
 mark s 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy: it is 100 o/o onsight! Stop being a dick .have a look on ukb where people have a rational grasp on climbing reality,you won't find any of the "its not an onsight" crap
 jon 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy:

Jesus Christ, how can it not be an onsight. The route doesn't start until it leaves the much easier one. Get a grip.
 Michael Hood 21 Apr 2011
In reply to mark s: To be utterly pedantic, it can't be on-sight - forget about the shared first half - but surely at the splitting point he must have seen some of the "Point Blank" holds leading leftwards, so when he actually came to do Point Blank it wasn't the first time he sighted those holds.

Ridiculous isn't it, for a lot of routes the only way it can be truly on-sight is if it's your first visit to that part of a crag and you climb it ground-up. So after that one route, none of the nearby routes can be on-sight.

Too many people worrying about definitions which aren't that important rather than recognising impressive climbing acheivments.
 HarryB 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Toerag:

If he climbed the 1st half of the route then downclimbed it, he wouldn't have blown the onsight so how is climbing the 1st half then 'escaping' off a different way any different?
alan collins 21 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

But what's he ever done on grit?
 Jus 21 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

good grief, you argumentative lot. go climbing!
 Michael Hood 21 Apr 2011
In reply to alan collins:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> But what's he ever done on grit?

Funny you should say that, I was at Burbage N the other day and had a look (as in from the ground with no climbing intent) at the Promise.

JP took a lot of flak when he graded that E10 but I had a good look at the gear placement - it looks sh*t and if you think that it's going to blow then I can see why E10 for 7a technical moves above a nasty landing was given.

Once you know the gear's ok then maybe E10 is over the top, but I wonder what grade this route will end up being once the gear placement is shot - which I don't think will be long in coming.

Also - has the route to the left - Superstition - ever had a repeat?

 Tom_Jermy 21 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:

The route is an alternate finish of the previous line is it not? Therefore you have to climb the first half and the second half to get the tick, No? If i'm wrong by all means feel free to let me know...

But if i'm not wrong and he has climbed the first half before, how can he possibly claim the full E8 onsight?

Doesn't take away at all from the fact it's an impressive climb, just have to be careful when talking about the style..
 JR 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy:

An "alternative finish" that's longer than pretty much all routes on grit...

For the record The Promise has pretty much settled @ E8.
 Kid Spatula 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy:

He still onsighted the E8 bit though, and clearly the E6 is like a VDiff to him. Sometimes I hate the attitude on this forum massively.

It can't be onsight because he saw the cliff from a distance!
Tom Knowles 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy:

James has onsighted both "From a Distance" and "Point Blank". Essentially, the latter only begins half-way up the wall, and James had already onsighted the lower half.

To think of it in other terms, and as a post pointed out above, if someone was to repeatedly climb and downclimb the first half of a route (without any weighting of the rope) before making a complete ascent, this would also be considered "onsight".

Hope this clarifies things for you.
 Hephaestus 21 Apr 2011
In reply:

I think this is an onsight, but what would happen if he'd done the routes in the alternative order - Point Blank first? Then the crux of 'From a Distance' would have been climbed before during the 'Point Blank' ascent.
 Stash 21 Apr 2011
Those who can...onsight, those who cant spend most of their time here slagging off the ones who onsight.
Good effort James.
 jkarran 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Hephaestus:

> I think this is an onsight, but what would happen if he'd done the routes in the alternative order - Point Blank first? Then the crux of 'From a Distance' would have been climbed before during the 'Point Blank' ascent.

He'd have climbed a cool looking E8 followed by a cool looking E6. There'd still be a UKC thread full of armchair idiots arguing over what's onsight and what isn't and a couple of JP bashers still banging on about The Promise or The Groove. Basically business as usual!

What a (predictably) silly thread!
jk
Tom Knowles 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Hephaestus:

It's irrelevant - "From a Distance" would also count as an onsight ascent. It's like saying that Ueli Steck hasn't onsighted a new route on the Eiger because it shares ground with the '38 Route which he's been up numerous times; or similarly on El Cap, Cerro Torre or the Ben! If it's climbed without weighting the rope (so no abseil inspection, falls etc), then it qualifies as "onsight".

The fact that this was JP's first visit to Pembroke makes his efforts even more impressive.
 jon 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy:

Suppose there was an initial 50' scramble to the start of two routes. If you climbed the R hand route would the fact that you'd already scrambled up that lower 50' mean you couldn't onsight the L hand route. Of course it wouldn't. And essentially, that's the case here. Have you ever looked at that wall? I mean in the flesh and not on video? I abseiled down most of those hard routes in Stennis Ford long before they were done in the 80s, whilst new routing down there. I suggest you have a look at them (though obviously not from a rope as it'd blow your onsight...)
 dave o 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Tom_Jermy:

what strange people and ideas there are in this place.......
Dai26 21 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Hahaha. The guys writing this article must have been pissing themselves knowing how much trouble it would spark. Its clearly an onsight, saying it isn't is like claiming that if you use the same approach to a crag as you've used before you cant claim any more onsights at said crag. Grow up ffs! Great achievement JP.
In reply to Tom Knowles:

> If it's climbed without weighting the rope (so no abseil inspection, falls etc), then it qualifies as "onsight".

Bollocks (beta, watching other people, etc). Honestly, do we have to go on listening to idiots on both sides of this debate? It is what it is; he climbed Point Blank having done From a Distance before, and very impressive too. What does it matter what you call it, as long as you know what happened?

jcm
 JLS 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Dai26:

>"Hahaha. The guys writing this article must have been pissing themselves knowing how much trouble it would spark."

You've got to hand it to him, Jack has a great sense of humour.
In reply to JLS: Ohhh, UKC News Troll...that's new! 10/10!
 Jack_F 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Hephaestus: Pissing off that belay is quite satisfying actually!
nickar 21 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: if anyone is having trouble with getting on to his personal site i stuck index.php at the end and it seemed to work:

http://www.realbigpimp.in/index.php
Craig Smith 21 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Please can we agree to stop using the term 'on sight'? I mean it's of French origin anyway!

What with youtube, blogs, DVDs... I think very few ascents these days are truly 'on sight' - meaning without prior knowledge. Of course, it sounds better for the sponsors and the punters if the ascent was indeed on sight, but when I read 'the ascent was on sight' I take this with a pinch of salt, meaning it's mostly bollocks. JP may well have done it a' vue, but only he will know that. Does anybody know if he took a rack of gear with him? Or just the odd piece? If the latter, then it's unlikely the ascent was on sight.

Pre '85 we used to use the word 'flashed' and were quite happy about the fact that we'd done a route without falling off. Nobody bothered if prior to the ascent you knew some of the moves or gear placements. Nobody made a fuss, we mainly just got on with climbing, there were no blogs to update!

C
 CragRat11 22 Apr 2011
In reply to Craig Smith: Its only a true onsight if you don't look up whilst climbing (otherwise you know what some of the holds look like above you). James is clearly looking out to the right in the photo on the front page so I reckon he can claim the onsight. Can somebody let him know that I OK'd it please.
 Mark Bull 22 Apr 2011
In reply to Craig Smith:

> Please can we agree to stop using the term 'on sight'? I mean it's of French origin anyway!

Couldn't agree more! "Onsight" is pretty meaningless as an ethical concept and it would be great if UKC showed some leadership by not using the term in news reports.

 JR 27 Apr 2011
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to Craig Smith)
>
> [...]
>
> Couldn't agree more! "Onsight" is pretty meaningless as an ethical concept and it would be great if UKC showed some leadership by not using the term in news reports.

It's better than "onsite", which seems to get used even more annoyingly.

 Rich Guest 27 Apr 2011
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to Craig Smith)
>
> [...]
>
> Couldn't agree more! "Onsight" is pretty meaningless as an ethical concept

Not really, it's very specific.

The concepts of Beta & Flashing are more meaningless and undefinable ethically, not Onsight Climbing
In reply to Craig Smith:

>Please can we agree to stop using the term 'on sight'?

Yes, please, please!

>Does anybody know if he took a rack of gear with him?

Think he did, to be fair - pictures on other report.

jcm
 Offwidth 02 May 2011
In reply to JR:

The Promise settled @ E8 for an easier sequence he missed, not the sequence he climbed. Its also depressing that one of the very best UK adventure climbers gets so much shit on this thread about even more trivial rubbish when the real story is him nibbling at the boundaries of the possible. Is Tim Emmett the next damned soft grader because James nearly flashed his E10?

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