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Martin Cathrow has made a peg-free ascent of Wolf at the Door, an E6 in Pendower Cove Cornwall. The route is protected by six stainless steel pegs which Martin chose not to clip. In a controversial move he chose to wear tiger lycra for the ascent.Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61965
In reply to UKC News: nice one!
In reply to UKC News: So is this the start of a bold new world, one in which the grade of the route is given as the number of wispa bars required to top out? W1... cracking bit of climbing too...
In reply to UKC News:
should have been wearing this t-shirt:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Three-Wolf-Short-Sleeve/dp/B002HJ377A
should have been wearing this t-shirt:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Three-Wolf-Short-Sleeve/dp/B002HJ377A
In reply to UKC News: Is preplaced confectionery really any more ethical than preplaced gear? Lame.
In reply to mike kann:
Genius! Definetly the new grading system right there!
Genius! Definetly the new grading system right there!
In reply to Al Evans: The point of what exactly?
In reply to shark:
This is hardly an ethical debate is it? Its a big ascent, ethically sound and a damn good effort. Climb an e6/7/8 or 9 then come back with your petty criticisms.
This is hardly an ethical debate is it? Its a big ascent, ethically sound and a damn good effort. Climb an e6/7/8 or 9 then come back with your petty criticisms.
> Where the pegs taped over ou of interest?
Not according to the photo.
In other news, I climbed a route the other day and chose not to clip the ab rope that was next to me. Probably a new E7.
In reply to UKC News: Most interesting is the choice of legwear. Is this a retro ascent signalling a return to the fashions of the 80's?
In reply to Enty:
So what, the tights are 25 years too late.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> This news item is a month and ten days too late.
>
> E
>
> This news item is a month and ten days too late.
>
> E
So what, the tights are 25 years too late.
In reply to UKC News: is it me or do you sense a few peoples negativity stems from the style of ascent damaging their 'ethical' arguments?..
In reply to Michael Gordon: Surely itd be a skyhook to weight down the wispa?
Fine effort on the ascent itself. Good to see people doing things in a way that suits them just for the enjoyment of it.
Fine effort on the ascent itself. Good to see people doing things in a way that suits them just for the enjoyment of it.
Nice one Martin! without pegs as routes in Penwith will all eventually be!
In reply to UKC News:
What an intriguing gap in the database: according to UKC logbooks this 'classic E6' doesn't actually exist. And an E6 where you don't clip the pegs isn't an E9. It's an E6, but the pegs haven't been clipped.
What an intriguing gap in the database: according to UKC logbooks this 'classic E6' doesn't actually exist. And an E6 where you don't clip the pegs isn't an E9. It's an E6, but the pegs haven't been clipped.
In reply to mrjonathanr:
No shortage of those. Cornwall isn't Stanage and Pendower coves is not a particularly popular venue, so it doesn't have an up to date page in the UKC database. There are 25 routes in the CC guide, 24 in Cornish Rock. What IS rather odd though is that the route is not listed in either guide. Must be a re-issue of Cornish rock with it in I guess.
Don't think he claimed it was an E9 did he? Just trying to give an idea about the difficulty of the ascent if the pegs weren't there.
This is a top class ascent of what looks like a good route done in good style and reported honestly. Can't see why anyone sees the need to criticise that.
And although the pegs are still there (as agreed by the recent meeting) I think it does go to show that there is no future for fixed protection on Cornish sea cliffs because someone will eventually come along and rise to the challenge...provided they are left for future climbers to try in good style.
> (In reply to UKC News)
> What an intriguing gap in the database: according to UKC logbooks this 'classic E6' doesn't actually exist.
> What an intriguing gap in the database: according to UKC logbooks this 'classic E6' doesn't actually exist.
No shortage of those. Cornwall isn't Stanage and Pendower coves is not a particularly popular venue, so it doesn't have an up to date page in the UKC database. There are 25 routes in the CC guide, 24 in Cornish Rock. What IS rather odd though is that the route is not listed in either guide. Must be a re-issue of Cornish rock with it in I guess.
> And an E6 where you don't clip the pegs isn't an E9. It's an E6, but the pegs haven't been clipped.
Don't think he claimed it was an E9 did he? Just trying to give an idea about the difficulty of the ascent if the pegs weren't there.
This is a top class ascent of what looks like a good route done in good style and reported honestly. Can't see why anyone sees the need to criticise that.
And although the pegs are still there (as agreed by the recent meeting) I think it does go to show that there is no future for fixed protection on Cornish sea cliffs because someone will eventually come along and rise to the challenge...provided they are left for future climbers to try in good style.
In reply to mrjonathanr:
There's probably 30+ E6+ in West Cornwall that aren't in the UKC databases - they're hardly comprehensive.
> (In reply to UKC News)
> What an intriguing gap in the database: according to UKC logbooks this 'classic E6' doesn't actually exist.
> What an intriguing gap in the database: according to UKC logbooks this 'classic E6' doesn't actually exist.
There's probably 30+ E6+ in West Cornwall that aren't in the UKC databases - they're hardly comprehensive.
In reply to Southern Man:
Plug them in!
> (In reply to mrjonathanr)
> [...]
>
> There's probably 30+ E6+ in West Cornwall that aren't in the UKC databases - they're hardly comprehensive.
> [...]
>
> There's probably 30+ E6+ in West Cornwall that aren't in the UKC databases - they're hardly comprehensive.
Plug them in!
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
Got a wedding to edit, might have a go though over time though Mick.
Got a wedding to edit, might have a go though over time though Mick.
In reply to Yong_Welsh:
Well not doing it, that was a good effort from a purely personal point of view, but it hardly means it can be done without them considering all the pre-practice does it?
> (In reply to Al Evans) The point of what exactly?
Well not doing it, that was a good effort from a purely personal point of view, but it hardly means it can be done without them considering all the pre-practice does it?
In reply to Al Evans: Most new E8/E9s are pre practised aren't they?
In reply to UKC News:
It would appear that the route has already been soloed, so presumably the pegs weren't used on that occasion?! http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=458476
It would appear that the route has already been soloed, so presumably the pegs weren't used on that occasion?! http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=458476
Yes Ian, Perhaps thats why I saw three little piggys flying past carn les boel on tuesday!! they did seem to be heading towards pendower cove??
In reply to Iain Peters:
Thanks Iain. I have removed that post though since it was bound to lead to a bun fight.
Alan
Thanks Iain. I have removed that post though since it was bound to lead to a bun fight.
Alan
pathetic
In reply to andybenham:
Only by folks that can't climb them , check out James Pearsons' recent efforts , that's the way forward, it's time we stopped cheating everyone including OURSELVES!!!
Only by folks that can't climb them , check out James Pearsons' recent efforts , that's the way forward, it's time we stopped cheating everyone including OURSELVES!!!
In reply to andybenham:
And PS Andy ;-the peg on Little Brown Jug was easily removed with a nut tool having been reduced to the thickness of a rurp by corrosion!! still fancy clipping it?
And PS Andy ;-the peg on Little Brown Jug was easily removed with a nut tool having been reduced to the thickness of a rurp by corrosion!! still fancy clipping it?
In reply to eggburt1952: Why do you feel the need to criticise this ascent based on your personal ethics? Quite frankly, i find your attitude disgusting.
In reply to Alan James - UKC:
I thought it might Alan. Good to see people like Martin reporting the style of their ascents so honestly and also not waiting for years to pass before going public.
I thought it might Alan. Good to see people like Martin reporting the style of their ascents so honestly and also not waiting for years to pass before going public.
In reply to UKC News:
It says Martin took two falls from the initial section. Are we to believe he fell into the water both times, rope, rack and all??!!
Loving the Wispa element and retro crag wear...
It says Martin took two falls from the initial section. Are we to believe he fell into the water both times, rope, rack and all??!!
Loving the Wispa element and retro crag wear...
In reply to samsamsam:
Pretty sure that was the case.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> It says Martin took two falls from the initial section. Are we to believe he fell into the water both times, rope, rack and all??!!
>
>
> It says Martin took two falls from the initial section. Are we to believe he fell into the water both times, rope, rack and all??!!
>
Pretty sure that was the case.
In reply to andybenham:
It's in the South Coast volume of the 2000 CC guide. Under Carn les Boel/Bosistow Zawn rather than Pendower.
> (In reply to mrjonathanr)
> [...]
>
> There are 25 routes in the CC guide, 24 in Cornish Rock. What IS rather odd though is that the route is not listed in either guide. Must be a re-issue of Cornish rock with it in I guess.
> [...]
>
> There are 25 routes in the CC guide, 24 in Cornish Rock. What IS rather odd though is that the route is not listed in either guide. Must be a re-issue of Cornish rock with it in I guess.
It's in the South Coast volume of the 2000 CC guide. Under Carn les Boel/Bosistow Zawn rather than Pendower.
In reply to eggburt1952:
I think we are generally in agreement. But worth pointing out that JP is only capable of coming so close to flashing E10 because he has a track record of head pointing hard routes and has spent the last two years in Europe building up strength and fitness sport climbing.
> (In reply to andybenham)
> check out James Pearsons' recent efforts , that's the way forward
> check out James Pearsons' recent efforts , that's the way forward
I think we are generally in agreement. But worth pointing out that JP is only capable of coming so close to flashing E10 because he has a track record of head pointing hard routes and has spent the last two years in Europe building up strength and fitness sport climbing.
In reply to eggburt1952:
I saw it when you were waving it around your head at the meeting and it did give me pause for thought. There are similarly dubious items on Suicide wall which I wouldn't hang my hat on!
> (In reply to andybenham)
> And PS Andy ;-the peg on Little Brown Jug was easily removed with a nut tool having been reduced to the thickness of a rurp by corrosion!! still fancy clipping it?
> And PS Andy ;-the peg on Little Brown Jug was easily removed with a nut tool having been reduced to the thickness of a rurp by corrosion!! still fancy clipping it?
I saw it when you were waving it around your head at the meeting and it did give me pause for thought. There are similarly dubious items on Suicide wall which I wouldn't hang my hat on!
In reply to chris j:
Ah yes found it now. Should've used the index!
> (In reply to andybenham)
> [...]
>
> It's in the South Coast volume of the 2000 CC guide. Under Carn les Boel/Bosistow Zawn rather than Pendower.
> [...]
>
> It's in the South Coast volume of the 2000 CC guide. Under Carn les Boel/Bosistow Zawn rather than Pendower.
Ah yes found it now. Should've used the index!
Great achievement . . . but the tiger lycra is just wrong!
In reply to UKC News:
Great work and I'm very happy that most have resisted all the usual b*ll to spoil any good news from Penwith.
Great work and I'm very happy that most have resisted all the usual b*ll to spoil any good news from Penwith.
In reply to eggburt1952: whatever, he's only cheating by your rules, what sort of control freak want the whole climbing population to climb in the style they enjoy most?
In reply to eggburt1952:
OK so what NEW E8/9s (which is what Andy said) have been done without pre-practice? I can think of Stevie Haston at Craig Doris, Neil Dickson on Quetzalcoatl (semi-new) and Dave MacLeod on Anubis (in summer), though all involved prior inspection. Not even James Pearson has managed this feat.
> (In reply to andybenham)
> Only by folks that can't climb them , check out James Pearsons' recent efforts , that's the way forward, it's time we stopped cheating everyone including OURSELVES!!!
> Only by folks that can't climb them , check out James Pearsons' recent efforts , that's the way forward, it's time we stopped cheating everyone including OURSELVES!!!
OK so what NEW E8/9s (which is what Andy said) have been done without pre-practice? I can think of Stevie Haston at Craig Doris, Neil Dickson on Quetzalcoatl (semi-new) and Dave MacLeod on Anubis (in summer), though all involved prior inspection. Not even James Pearson has managed this feat.
In reply to UKC News: Congratulations Martin.
I don't imagine there are very many college tutors climbing at this level and I personally think it is very inspiring for your students.
I don't imagine there are very many college tutors climbing at this level and I personally think it is very inspiring for your students.
In reply to UKC News:
good job welldone.
Personally I think it was good style not to clip the pegs. I will clip anything that stands still long enough for me to clip it, i will climb on shoulders heads what have you to get up.
Climbing is a personal thing as long as you are happy with your own style of ascent then bugger what others think (obviously sticking within the guidance set by greater powers about the use of metal things in nice rough rock!)
good job welldone.
Personally I think it was good style not to clip the pegs. I will clip anything that stands still long enough for me to clip it, i will climb on shoulders heads what have you to get up.
Climbing is a personal thing as long as you are happy with your own style of ascent then bugger what others think (obviously sticking within the guidance set by greater powers about the use of metal things in nice rough rock!)
In reply to UKC News:
YES!
There may be a pigeon, the prettiest pigeon in the world and many people enjoy that pigeon in its current state, but only a pigeon with no pegs in him can fly free and show us his real character.
Superb effort on freeing the pigeon, that is after all why most of us started climbing.
YES!
There may be a pigeon, the prettiest pigeon in the world and many people enjoy that pigeon in its current state, but only a pigeon with no pegs in him can fly free and show us his real character.
Superb effort on freeing the pigeon, that is after all why most of us started climbing.
To climb a route trad is the seduction of the route, pegs smack of rape.
I once climbed a sports route and chose not to clip anything including the lower-off. I simply fell to the ground from the top. All in the name of ethical purity
In reply to jot84: ^ ^ sigh....
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