UKC

Can anyone help? I'm trying to plan a trip to Swanage to do some of the classic VS/HVS routes e.g. Tatra, Finale Groove, Lightning Strike I'm a bit confused as the BMC statement below contains routes that don't appear in my 2005 Rockfax guide to Dorset, i.e. Andycap, Raindrop and Insectitude. Are they new routes and do you know which sectors these are found in? Can you shed any more light on which areas/routes are definitely restricted for 2011. Many thanks!

BMC: "Boulder Ruckle: all routes from Andycap to Raindrop, Sardine Special to Hard Day’s Night, and Quasimodo to Insectitude".

In reply to Diccon: Andycap is HVS 4c and is just left of silhouette arete, Raindrop is HVS 5a and just right of snowdrop. Sardine special is just right of relax and swing and hard days night is a couple of routes left of prayers for rain. This basically means that thunderball and jo (HVS's) are ok, but the rest of relax and swing area is out of bounds. Quasimodo to insectitude just means the whole of the old faithfull area is out of bounds (if you only have rockfax).
There are loads of climbs in the ruckle that aren't listed in the rockfax, hopefully the new cc guide will mean they get more traffic, when it eventually comes out.

Routes I would recommend that aren't banned

Thunderball
Jo
Heidelberg creature
Finale groove
Tatra (now gets HVS)
Black sunshine
Adventura

Larus has fallen down as has a big bit of marmolata buttress since the 1995 guide was written

Hope this helps, enjoy!

In reply to Ceridwen:

Tatra (now gets HVS)

and well worth it in my view!

In reply to Ceridwen:

That really is extremely helpful, thank you!!! From what you've said I've managed to identify the location of all the missing climbs. Thanks for the route tips too, sounds like there's still plenty to go for.