UKC

NEWS: BMC International Meet - Fun in the Sun!

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 UKC News 19 May 2011
UK Host Neil Dickson having a good time testing sea cliff pegs for our international visitors - Bomber!, 4 kbA report and photo gallery from the recent BMC International Meet in North Wales.

Hard ascents, classic routes and general climbing fun on some of the world's best traditional climbs.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62272

 Franco Cookson 19 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Ace!
hokipoki 19 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Being a kit whore, any idea what smock 'Big West' is wearing in the top picture?
 ksjs 19 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: That photo of Matic on the E5 at Dorys is brilliant, anyone know which route this is?
 PTatts 19 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Good stuff, met a couple of them at tremadog and seemed to be having a great time, especially the dutch girl who'd just seconded the falcon!
Also found a waterproof at the top of vector buttress on the thursday night and figured it could have been one of the visitors, if you know if anyone lost one please get in touch.
In reply to UKC News:

West and Shinta were no slouches in the cave last Saturday whilst waiting for the tide to go out at LPT.

Nice photos
 Jack Geldard 19 May 2011
In reply to ksjs:
> (In reply to UKC News) That photo of Matic on the E5 at Dorys is brilliant, anyone know which route this is?

Hi KSJS,

It's the route just right of Tonight at Noon, it steps off the pinnacle. I'm afraid I can't remember the name (it's got a slightly weird 3 word name I think) of it and I don't have a Lleyn Guide book to hand.

There is now an E7 of Stevie Haston's between this E5 and TaN too, which looks great.

The E5 shown is a top route. Not too hard physically, but takes a bit of working out. Cam protection.

Thanks,

Jack



 jobertalot 19 May 2011
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

I think it's called Pysgoyn Aur (Goldfish) if it's the same route that Neil Dickson did a day or two earlier.
 centurion05 20 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

I was at gogarth on wednesday doing spiders web, when i walked towards the wen zawn promintory i saw an orange ab rope being set up to ab down towards Conan the Librarian. When i asked the guys what route they were doing they were indeed doing Conan!

Were these german guys on the BMC meet, they didn't seem to have too much bother on conan, not that i could see from the depths of the web. Fair play, probably the best route at Gogarth???

Centurion05
 centurion05 20 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

ah, just seen the dates. Not on the BMC International meet.

Stella effort tho.
 ksjs 20 May 2011
In reply to centurion05: It may have been Paul and Benno from Germany; they were staying on for an extra week and seemed to be well into sea cliffs. Based on what I saw / heard of them on the meet, I'm guessing Conan would have been straightforward for them.
Simon Panton 20 May 2011
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor: The Rhoscolyn E7 that Shinta onsighted is Surreal Appeal on Painted Wall. Twid will be made up that its finally had a repeat (he first climbed it in 1996!). Nice pic by the way.

There's another E7 that comes in from the right to join Surreal Appeal at its crux - Twid reckoned this was physically F8a. Don't think that has been repeated either.

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