/ An ascent of Left Wall in 1964 . Llanberis Pass N Wales.

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gd303uk - on 23 May 2011
has this film been posted before? if so sorry, couldn't find any reference in search.
pebbles for pro' scary stuff.

An ascent of Left Wall in 1964 . Llanberis Pass N Wales.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUzC0HDoRrk

i would like to see more old film, if anybody has some links.

G
Jonny2vests - on 23 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk:

One of the best old climbing films I have ever seen is SHEFFIELD CLIMBERS (1946-1949), happily brought to us by the Yorkshire Film Archive.

Its so crisp & clear (and in colour), it almost looks like some Harry Enfield send up.

http://www.yfaonline.com/assetDetails.cfm?film=4073&keyword=

Mick Ward - on 23 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk:

I started watching it but the broadband is slow today. Looks excellent. I assume that Bob Godfrey (sp?) is the same guy who filmed the FFA of Half Dome and wrote the amazing book 'Climb' about the history (to the mid-1970s) of Colorado climbing. A very talented man.

Mick
gd303uk - on 23 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk: Thanks Johny2vests for that link, it is an incredible bit of film, great quality too.
Hey Mike , i don't know if it is the same Bob Godfrey, he did end up living in the states so very possible.
i have just googled the film you mentioned and will check it out.

Sam Beaton on 24 May 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:

wow, bilberries and open fires at Stanage!

I've often wondered about the pale scars on old black and white photos of grit and there are lots more on that film. are they nail scratches? if so, how come they haven't permanently damaged the rock? is it simply because there were far fewer climbers around 50 years ago and the rock had a chance to weather again once nails stopped being used?
Enty - on 24 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk:

The music in these climbing videos was a bit different back then.....

E
Michael Hood - on 24 May 2011
In reply to Enty: The video as a whole is more recent than 1964 even if the actual filmed ascent is from then. If you look at part 1 the "narrator" has a hexentric and I think they're from a bit later.

The actual ascent is a great historical record.
pog100 - on 24 May 2011
In reply to Michael Hood:

it had the date in the credits, 1976, I think.
M. Edwards on 24 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk:

As you may already know, this is an early film of my father (Rowland Edwards) climbing Left Wall in an early climbing style, he is belayed by Eric Jones. It was a film by Bob Godfrey and was filmed on a single camera (Note: there are many camera angles so the climb was done many times) that was "borrowed" from his college. Bob did move to Colorado, and did also produce the Free Half Dome movie narrated be non other than Robert Redford (who contacted Bob and said he wanted to do it for free as he was so inspired by Jim Erickson and Art Higby's free and chalk-less ascent). Bob also published books, Climb and a very nice book about Layton Kore, amongst others. Sadly Bob took his life after being diagnosed with Parkinson's disease.

Final note: My father climbed Left wall so many times for this film for the various camera angles, that he eventually soloed it. This was the first solo of the route...but in those days if you had pre-practiced the route you could not claim it. So he never did. How ethics have changed!
Christheclimber - on 24 May 2011
In reply to M. Edwards:

Is it not Trevor Jones belaying (not Eric) ???
Christheclimber - on 24 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk:

Thamks for posting this film. Fascinating stuff.
Hardonicus - on 24 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk:

Fascinating. Looks like there's a bit of French free going on there. Was that de rigueur at the time?
M. Edwards on 24 May 2011
In reply to Christheclimber:

I have just had it confirmed this minute by my father, it was Eric.

Now I am off climbing, the sun is out....now where did I put those pebbles?
Christheclimber - on 24 May 2011
In reply to M. Edwards:

Thanks I didn't recognize Eric with hair!
Enjoy your climbing in the sun.........
Sul on 24 May 2011
In reply to gd303uk:
> has this film been posted before? if so sorry, couldn't find any reference in search.
> pebbles for pro' scary stuff.
>
> An ascent of Left Wall in 1964 . Llanberis Pass N Wales.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUzC0HDoRrk
>
> i would like to see more old film, if anybody has some links.
>
> G

He's aiding it you did not say that!!!

Disappointed moi!
gd303uk - on 25 May 2011
In reply to M. Edwards: Thanks Mark for that additional information, it is excellent to see your dad and Eric climbing, and recreating the first ascent for the film, climbing in the style this was achieved in. those climbers your dad and Eric included back in the day are Bold as, long runouts, on questionable gear.
it is good to see how climbing and climbing equipment has changed.

there are some more good films on the youtube page i got the Left wall vid from. nice Climbing on Gillan, no pebbles needed on that one. :)

ads.ukclimbing.com
David Lanceley - on 25 May 2011
Coincidently I did Left Wall with Bob Godfrey around 1982. He was visiting from the States, we were introduced by the late Breda Arkless and spent a week filling the gaps in Bob’s tick list of Welsh classics, high point probably White Slab, Vember and Shrike in the day.

We must have talked about the filming but I don’t recall anything now. I do recall it wasn’t an entirely clean ascent. He climbed in a pair of shorts over leggings, common now but quite a novelty then, I have some pictures…somewhere.

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