UKC

Crag for the aspirant E2 leader (Scottish Rock?)

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 KeithAlexander 30 May 2011
I thought I remembered reading about a seacliff crag in Gary Latter's Scottish Rock (probably North) that was described as a good venue for aspirant E2 leaders, but now skimming through, can't find it again.

Does this ring any bells with anyone else, or failing that, any suggestions for crags that have lots of good E2s?
 Tom Last 30 May 2011
In reply to KeithAlexander:

Diabaig for The Pillar etc?
 Jack Frost 30 May 2011
In reply to KeithAlexander:

Sheigra 2nd Geo perhaps?

Bloodlust Direct
Wanderings
The Dark Flush
Geriatrics

all next to each other and 3* routes.
 Gary Latter 30 May 2011
In reply to KeithAlexander:

Second Geo at Sheigra fits the bill perfectly - masses of E2s, most of them brilliant.

Also loads to go at at Reiff, including loads of great stuff around the Leaning Block Cliffs area, which I think is best venue there - crags facing most directions, and stunning backdrop of Suilven - what more could you ask for?

Cheers,

Gary
 Jack Frost 30 May 2011
 franksnb 30 May 2011
In reply to KeithAlexander: floors craig is a friendly venue. non tidal mostly, gets the sun. coup de grace has gear every 3 feet if you want it, so its considered a soft E2 by some. I thought it was brilliant, i fell off it 4 times

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1896
 Bulls Crack 30 May 2011
In reply to KeithAlexander:

Diabeag Pillar is easy but very good at E2. The Bug at Toilladh is great great gear and steady (tricky top wall)

Haven't done an awful lot of Scots extremes though - more the pity - maybe if my planned move there comes off that will change!
In reply to KeithAlexander:

Cheers, they all look great. I still wonder in which crag description and guidebook I saw the phrase "aspirant E2 leader", but with those options, I suppose it doesn't matter anymore.
 Rick Campbell 30 May 2011
In reply to KeithAlexander: if you're in the Central Belt or Southern Highlands then Upper Cave Crag has to be high on your list. Don't quote me on the grades 'cos everytime a new guide book comes out the grades seem to have gone up! So I would suggest Deaths Head (which used to E1!) which people who learned their footwork at climbing walls tell me has a hard move at the top; then there is Tombstone with its pumpy runout; Corpse which is steady with a well pro-ed hard move at the top. Finally there is Warfarin, which is longer and harder than the others.
Limekilns in Fife might be a better option for breaking into the grade, but if you can do routes at Upper Cave, you'll manage most routes of the same grade anywhere else in Scotland.
 JLS 30 May 2011
In reply to KeithAlexander:

Elgin's Crack at limekilns is a good first bet.

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