/ NEWS: Steve McClure Repeats The Quarryman (E8)
The four pitch route was first climbed by Johnny Dawes and has seen perhaps a handful of repeats in different forms, mainly just of the top two pitches.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62420
Interesting, am I seeing untied laces of Steve's shoes on the pictures attached?
Could anyone explain me the grade of this route? Is it that some pitches are bolted and on some pitches climber places his own protection?
has managed to make the probable first one day ascent of The Quarryman (E8)
Steve first attempted the route early last week, but a late start and extremely tiring climbing in the famous 'groove pitch' stopped his ascent.
surely it should read Steve Mclure has managed to make the probable first continuous ascent of The Quarryman (E8)
errrm. I perfectly understood the news article, but not your post!
Nice one Ste, sounds like a hard day!
It's quite possible to do a one day ascent of something you have attempted previously.
As long as on the final ascent you start at the bottom and climb it in a one-er in the space of a day then it is a 'one day ascent', no?
"managed to make what is probably the first same day ascent" might read better and be a bit clearer with respect to the style.
To the question about gear/grade - there was an in-situ peg and nut on the first pitch. No idea if they remain.
To quote Paul Williams from the Llanberis guidebook (1987) "Grades, a headache at the best of times, are generally aligned to those in The [Llanberis] Pass".
They have evolved a little since to include french grading.
Or because he's posing for the camera and wasn't actually on an actual attempt?
He does it in this one too....
Anyone who has stood and looked over at "the Quarryman" will know what an awesome achievement this is. Well done.
"All pitches in one day" is better :-)
Zap my posts if you want to declutter the thread
Sounds like you'll fit right in.
On topic: well done Ste!
Well spotted, shoes untied. Defo not posing for the camera! with a face like that! Those whites fit my feet so rediculously well I don't need to lace them up - or maybe my feet fit the shoes so well because I have been wearing 5.10 forever.
I lace em up if there is any heel hooks - which there certainly wasn't on that pitch!
your obviously in good form.
Well done Steve. He seems a very nice chap too- was giving me some useful beta on a route I was struggling with at a far more modest grade. Top notch. Looks like he can climb anything he wants!
Sounds like he had two days on it, failed the first day, then went back and did it all the second. The second day constitutes the 'all pitches in one day' ascent.
"Last Friday he went back with Neil Mawson and managed to climb all the pitches free."
Can anyone fill me in on the style of the first ascent? How long did JD take to do it? I was unaware that he hadn't done it all in one go.
Elsewhere on the site
So, just what is the Petzl RocTrip? Every year French climbing manufacturer pick a sport climbing area that has potential... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more