UKC

I'm after some advice on shoes, i've currently got a pair if 5.10 Blackwings for overhangs (which are awesome) and a pair of Katana Laces for all round. But, i climb on lots of different rock types (mainly quarried and natural grit) and i find that while the Katana's edge really well i find that they don't smear and feel like climbing with a pair of chisels on your feet. So i'm after a pair of new all round shoes that smear and edge well with a bit of a downturn, the obvious choice if the Anasazi VCS but i've had a pair in the past and found that they didn't edge very well so i'm put off to get another pair.

So what do people recommend? I'd like to have a look at the 5.10 Quantums and Arrowheads but i've heard that there far to soft, so what are peoples experiences with them (even though they are pretty new).

In reply to Joe Dobson:
So i'm after a pair of new all round shoes that smear and edge well with a bit of a downturn


trust me, arrow heads are a stupid idea if you want to smear! they can providing you dont like the shape of your toe!

i'd reccomend the muira lace or the anasazi verde/blanco, i use them and the seem to beem excellent for me

In reply to Joe Dobson:

5.10 Galileo, Edge like a magic edging machine and smear fairly well once the soften a bit!

They're also super comfy. Well for me anyway.

In reply to Joe Dobson: i've had a pair of Muira VS's which were amazing, i ideally want the same shoe but with a less downturned shape as they edged really well but could still smear on grit slabs. But i did find the downturn a bit to much hence they were mainly used for bouldering.

I tried the Arrowheads on at a demo day held at Craggy in Guildford. I can tell you that the edges on them are amazing, however smearing in them was far from easy. This may just have been the pair that I tried as they were still fairly new, with a lot of walking round in them they may soften up enought to smear with.

In reply to Joe Dobson: has anyone who has a pair of Arrowheads previously had a pair of Muira VS's? I would to see how they compare!