/ Gorges du Tarn - update

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EwanR on 04 Jun 2011
In case anybody is interested:

http://www.camptocamp.org/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=1471804

A rough translation is:

In recent months a huge amount has been written about the climbing areas of the Cirque des Baumes in the Gorges du Tarn (Lòzere, commune of Saint Georges de Lévejac). We wish to bring some details to your attention so that those climbing there are well informed.

This week has seen the signing of the first agreement authorising climbing in these areas between the commune, certain private individuals, the FFCAM and the CAF Causses et Cévennes. Even though climbing has taken place here for more than twenty years there has never been any formal authorisation from the landowners and, as such, this is a considerable advance. This also permits the CAF to be officially recognised as managing the climbing areas. There are, however, certain landowners who have not yet given their permission and may yet refuse to do so; in such case the access to certain classic sectors may be at risk.

The objective of the different parties is to allow climbing on safely equipped routes whilst respecting the site, the inhabitants and the environment. In order to do so and before the re-equipment can take place the choice has been made to de-equip certain routes where the equipment is old and dilapidated. Approximately 150 of the routes in the current guidebook have been de-equipped and a prohibition order is in place on the routes concerned. The first three bolts have been removed and a sign indicating the prohibition has been placed at the point of the first bolt.

The sectors that have been almost entirely de-equipped are Amphithéatre, Calmez vous, Navire, Coma idyllique, Arc en ciel, Choucatine, Oasif and Planète Causses. In other sectors only a few routes are affected.

Nevertheless we would like to reassure climbers who wish to come and climb in the Gorges du Tarn. There are a large number of routes that have been put up since 2001 and are therefore not mentioned in the current guide. These routes are in the main located in the sectors described in the guidebook and are easily identifiable. There are, therefore, more than enough routes (more than 400) to allow one to spend a good holiday in the Cirque des Baumes no matter what one's level is.

As soon as the situation regarding the land is clarified and the de-equipped routes re-equipped, the next step will be to include the new routes in an updated guidebook. Alas for this one will have to wait a few months. We wish to assure the climbing community that the CAF Causses et Cévennes is doing everything possible to advance this matter as quickly as possible.

We would like to remind you that wild camping in forbidden throughout the site of the Gorges du Tarn and the Jonte as are fires. Naturally, as at numerous other sites in Europe and elsewhere, the respect of the site by climbers is essential in order to allow climbing to continue here.

We wish you a good holiday in the Gorges du Tarn

The team from CAF Causses et Cévennes
Christheclimber - on 05 Jun 2011
In reply to EwanR:
There are a large number of routes that have been put up since 2001 and are therefore not mentioned in the current guide. These routes are in the main located in the sectors described in the guidebook and are easily identifiable. There are, therefore, more than enough routes (more than 400) to allow one to spend a good holiday in the Cirque des Baumes no matter what one's level is.

Hi, thanks for this info. Is there a topo available for the routes not in the current guidebook that can still be climbed?
Climbapedia - on 05 Jun 2011
Thanks for posting this - let's hope it can all be sorted out with the land-owners.

Any one going to the Natural Games in Millau later this month (23 - 26 June)?

http://www.naturalgames.fr/naturalgames.html
witnessthis - on 05 Jun 2011
In reply to Christheclimber: I have been told by a friend who lives in the area,the main source of climbing bans are in the area 'gymnaze' to 'grand toit'.This is on private land and i believe there is a blanket ban for now.The sectors R of ZA to Figues de cul? have quite alot of new stuff 6c-7b go have a look around there they look/are(?) stunning.....
witnessthis - on 08 Jun 2011
In reply to witnessthis: The same friend has been in touch i think you can climb anywhere except on the rts that are being re-bolted(first three bolts of routes that might have deck out potential-i think).Sounds really ok unless you are going for a one rt holday sort of trip.Consult the locals if you have any probs.
dezbert - on 11 Jun 2011
In reply to EwanR:

Thanks for posting this, I'm off there in 2 weeks time and will try to post some updated first hand info while there

Cheers
DEvans - on 11 Jun 2011
In reply to dezbert:

have you considered the Dordogne?

dan

dezbert - on 13 Jun 2011
In reply to DEvans:

I haven't looked in to the Dordgone, would you recommend?

I found out about the climbing at gorges Jonte and Dourbie and decided that there's plenty to go at for 2 weeks. I'd be interested in what you have to say about Dordgone for the next time I'm over though

Cheers
AJM - on 13 Jun 2011
In reply to dezbert:

Jonte and Boffi (Dourbie) are mega. Cantobre is ace too if you can climb the grades required......
dezbert - on 13 Jun 2011
In reply to AJM:

I've decided to base myself in Le Rozier so that I have access to all the areas. I read Kevin Avery's destination guide to Boffi and it does look amazing!!

Is Cantobre south facing?
AJM - on 13 Jun 2011
In reply to dezbert:

Boffi is amazing - had only a couple of days there (plus a day in the Jonte) in early May and it was so good I'm already planning to get back in Autumn for more.....

Yeah, Cantobre is S facing. Goes into the shade early evening on the main wall say 6-7 from memory but please don't hold me to it! The routes on the main wall look awesome, but the Jo Barre Team sector is really good too, the 6cs are very good. The other one with mid-grade routes on it (its got a load of 6c-7a sort of stuff on it but I forget the sector name) doesn't look so good, but we didn't actually climb any of those.
dezbert - on 14 Jun 2011
In reply to AJM:

I'll maybe go up for a look at Cantobre on a rest day for a future trip, it's going to be too hot this time I think.

I really like the area too, I was in Gorge du Tarn 3 years ago and loved it so can't wait to explore more.

Cheers for the info!
witnessthis - on 14 Jun 2011
In reply to AJM:I agree le Boffi is superb,sector mythe errant though has a collection of superb rts particuarly in the 6b-6c level.
Alan Rubin - on 14 Jun 2011
In reply to AJM: Hi Andy, When are you thinking of heading to Boffi, etc in the Autumn? I may be interested in heading over. Alan
AJM - on 14 Jun 2011
In reply to Alan Rubin:

Hi Alan, great to hear from you again. How are things?

We haven't quite sorted dates out as yet - I think most votes are looking at some time early October. I'll add you into the email chain when I send the next mail out, which should be in a few days...
Alan Rubin - on 14 Jun 2011
In reply to AJM: Hi Andy, That's great. I'm feeling better, not 100% but better and would love to get on some French limestone again, and late Sept./early Oct. is really the only possible "window" I have this year. Alan

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