UKC

OK so I sold my DMM Xenos to pay for my front teeth (and my clipper leashes and 5 x grivel 360's. I needed a fair bit of work) and now I need to replace them.

Old axes or new? If Im extrememly lucky I may get a week in Scotland, a couple of long weekends and the odd few days in the Lakes and just maybe a week in Norway.

What to get?

In reply to Fawksey:

Petzl Quarks would be my choice. However I don't think there's much difference between Quarks, Rebels and Vipers. Depends if money's a worry, then it's worth going second hand. Get some of the old model Quarks or Aztars.

In reply to Fawksey:

quarks or cobras. will do anything.
aztarexs or vipers if cash is a matter.

stay away from adzes if you want to minimize further payments on front teeth

In reply to Fawksey:

In a money-no-object scenario, then I'd get a pair of the new Quarks - which will do everything from pure ice to mixed. I reckon they're a big improvement on the old ones. However, if finances don't allow then, as others have already advised, I'd go for a s/h pair of (old) Quarks - or Vipers if you can find any. You can't go wrong with either tbh.

Hope this helps.

Dave

In reply to Fawksey: Everybody seems to like Nomics. I'm the odd one then, I prefer Grivels much more. If I would be purchasing a new pair it would be either Matrix Tech or Quantum Tech... ...and if the money wouldn't be an obstacle it would be something from their Force series.

In reply to Fawksey: Just use 2 stake knives,rope up with dental floss and man up, i await the results eagerly.

In reply to Fawksey:
I think it's only a matter of time before handled axes (ala nomics) become the norm for punters like us in the uk. Given current trends however I'd get the vipers. That said my quarks are pretty good too (but I think both the new and old design are less robust than the vipers)

In reply to Fawksey:

does no one climb with BD cobras in the UK? almost never see them mentioned in all the usual debates.

while quarks are great tools i find cobras more of an 'in between' tool (between a standard alpine tool and a techy mixed tool) because they swing more like a nomic/fusion but without the exaggerated handle. they also have the clearence of close to the nomic/fusion but without the radical curve.

my god, theyre the missing link people!

only they cost a heap more - tho you dont need to shell out extra for the little hammer : )

In reply to ice.solo:

Have you seen the state of regular climbers' axes in the UK? Most of the ones I saw look as if they just came out from a concrete mixer. Bashing frozen turf, sweeping snow to find rock placement, torquing in deep cracks, I've even heard of jamming an axe shaft into a horizontal crack and using it as a foot hold - will you do these to a shiny carbon fibre shaft?

One of my partners use Cobras in Scotland but only for good ice. Saw them used by others but only in the days when ice is fat. Do the Viper not have almost identical geometry to the Cobra?

In reply to jamestheyip:

ha yeah, good point - tho all those conditions exist elsewhere, without consistant fat ice i can see its not the best choice.

geometry is different - cobra is curved more towards the top, also where the flare is for clearence.

In reply to ice.solo: Would agree with James, even here in Finland you see them so rarely because a) they are so expensive and b) for the guys doing hard mixed and drytooling routes they would probably be not bent enough and perhaps too delicate. My mate has a pair so I've climbed with them. They make a very odd noise after many years of climbing with metal tools. It reminded me of getting my alu framed bike after many, many years of various bikes all with steel frames.

In reply to Fawksey: In case you're interested here's a few pointers to technical axes...

All the five star technical axes in our service (includes most of the proposed so far): http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&ids=57,4574,2812,4242,74,75...

All the technical axes in our service (currently running over 60 different): http://www.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&limit=500&browse=1&a...

In reply to Fawksey: Grivel Matrix Tech (bombproof and light) or BD Reactors (nice handle, easier to change picks)

In reply to Fawksey: dont buy dmm, i dont have anything against them im just not a fan of their axes. far too heavy and all that. vipers and quarks on the other hand are nice, probably edging towards the new quarks.

In reply to Fawksey:
I'm not the person to advise as I bought a pair of Aztars and then never used them. The best laid plans etc...

If you decide 2nd hand is OK and like aztars, give me a shout - usual arguments against are wll documented here - mainly the leashless aspect, I couldn't advise. I thought they were good though. I only used them for a week in the alps though...