UKC

What size cams for p1 flake and/ how many big cams??

Is the wet start hard- grade?

thanks

In reply to dan ely:
very slippy when wet but the sun soon burns off damp when it comes round in the afternoon so pick a sunny day with low tide in afternoon

I got a half friend somewhere in the back, I'm not sure about big cams but I guess would have to be very big indeed. Best to climb confidently to where the crack narrows enough for a normal rack

In reply to dan ely:

i seem to remember my mate getting a bd number 2, yellow, in low down before he committed to the layback, then its just normal nuts and cams i remember.

As said before, the start can be desperate in the slime so go in the afternoon when the sun is on it.

It is a stella route tho.

centurion05

In reply to dan ely:

You could place a friend 5 or 6 if you took one. I have done it two or three times and not taken one. it is a bit bold, but not too bad really. It is, however, a burly committing E3, especially as the start is unlikely to be really dry (its been pretty moist when i've done it, even late in the day)

it is also an utterly amazing route, and a lot of fun: enjoy!

In reply to dan ely:
I did this in the wet without big cams and it felt like E5. You would need at least Friends size 5 and 6. The back of the crack is filled with inverted, impossible to retrieve, Friends smaller than this! People may not know that on the first ascent there was a peg on the right wall for the layback section (not sure how good it was though!).
Have fun, but my advice is, leave it till afternoon when it's dry. Bomber nut and jam at end of layback section btw.
Cheers
Graham

In reply to dan ely:

I don't think you need big cams i.e. bigger than friend 3 ish, I remember a bit of a greasy unprotected thrutch then a friend at a stretch in the back. Then a bit more of a thrutch to get into a good layback and good jams/gear.


As others say, leave it til sunny pm- although its probably always a bit greasy. I hopped accross the boulders just as someone doing it slithered out from about 15' onto the deck. Not the best start to the day. It almost put me off but glad i cracked on - its a brilliant route.

In reply to dan ely: I was there on a dry day and had a camalot 4 and a cam 5, and it felt fine for E3.