UKC

THE LOWDOWN: Did Finland's hardest route just get harder?

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Syncro, 8c+, at Nummi, Finland, 4 kbToby Archer reports:
Compared to many other European countries, Finnish climbing history is (like many of the routes) rather short. But what the routes don't have in stature, it appears they make up for in being nails.

The Bouldertehdas (Bouldering Factory) blog reports, via a translation at 27...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62807
 HeMa 27 Jun 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Bindhammer just isn't used to granite...

So, Syncro is prolly only 8a+ on a mosquito infested north facing tiny cliff...

On other related issues, it seems that Tomi (FA of Syncro) also has spent more time @ Nummi, climbing a new direct start to Tornado (orig. one is 7b+/7c) with a grade of something like 8b (so, again prolly something like 7c)...

Source:
http://www.slouppi.net/contents/news/moreNews.phtml?typeId=2
 Lord_ash2000 27 Jun 2011
In reply to HeMa:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC)
>
> Bindhammer just isn't used to granite...
>
> So, Syncro is prolly only 8a+ on a mosquito infested north facing tiny cliff...
>(orig. one is 7b+/7c) with a grade of something like 8b (so, again prolly something like 7c)...


With your nice list of VD - VS leads you sound like just the guy to be down grading routes you've never tried and never could. Unlike Bindhammer, mean whats he ever done? Hes not even used ot the rock.

 HeMa 27 Jun 2011
In reply to Lord_ash2000:
> (In reply to HeMa)
> [...]
> >(orig. one is 7b+/7c) with a grade of something like 8b (so, again prolly something like 7c)...*


Kind Sir, could you swiftly calibrate your Sarcasm meter, it seems to be broken...


* my feeble attempt of playing with the traditional finnish lack of self esteem.
 TobyA 27 Jun 2011
In reply to Lord_ash2000: Leaving aside Henkka's obvious sarcasm that you missed, mid-summer generally isn't the best time for climbing in Finland - despite you being able to climb for 22 hours of the day in sunshine.

Granite routes (99% of the rock here) often depends on small, crystalline holds that can become very slippy and hard on your skin in hot weather, and this makes Bindhammer's ascent particularly noteworthy, although perhaps he's just better acclimatised to hotter weather coming from the south!

Nalle Hukkataival has noted on his blog that the season for hard bouldering sends in Finland is actually rather short - things get wet and then buried in snow from November until March, and then it gets too hot and muggy from May to end of August!

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