UKC

Going to the dolomites in a couple of weeks and planning on doing some routes on the south face of the marmolada. Was just wondering what the glacier descent was like round the back and what's the lightest footwear you can get away with. Is it usually just slushy snow and ok in trainers or can it be icy and require some kind of crampon?

Cheers,

Pete.

In reply to Pete Graham: footwear unnecessary, 2 pairs of socks would be light and grippy. alternatively 2 ultra-safe condoms would facilitate a quick descent. check my ebay for new and used.

In reply to Pete Graham:
I saw some people sliding down the Marmolada glacier way out of control after trying to do exactly that. If the glacier is snow covered early in the season it might be feasible but unwise, later on when it is pretty much bare, you'd be taking your life in your hands....

Having said that, strap on crampons over trainers would be perfect!!

In reply to Pete Graham:

It's a real glacier, not just a snowpatch, so ice and indeed crevasses await you. Some routes finish near the cable station, so as long as you don't miss the last cablecar ...

In reply to Pete Graham: We went a few years ago in June, when the region had an unusual amount of snow, crampons were not needed (although were needed for the via ferrata route we had just done!!!). Descent was mainly through soft snow you could easily glide through - you could poss get away with it (and get v wet feet) with some tougher approach shoes, we had our 3 season boots.

In reply to Pete Graham:

When I went down there years ago (2003) it was a proper glacier with some large crevasses. Axe, crampons & rope would be sensible.

It may well have all melted since of course.

In reply to Pete Graham:

We walked down at about 17.30 in the day, took no more than 2.5hours to the road, easy walking. The first hour or so was on simple glacier, then gravel track. We wore trainers, and had no problems. We saw a young Italian lad walk off on rock shoes!! Painful!!

In reply to Pete Graham: Walked down in trainers in soft snow 3 years ago (as far as top cable car station) in late July.

In reply to Pete Graham:

Had to tie two Frenchies into our rope when I came down because otherwise they were going to have a very quick decent. Ice at the bottom.

Clearly the answer is it depends on the conditions but you'd be mad not to take crampons IMO.

We walked down in trainers no problem. You're on a ski piste for most of it. There's some bits of wood lying around at the top that you can use as an axe to control a slide. Personally wouldn't have fancied lugging big boots and crampons up 800 metres of hard rock climbing. In fact we wouldnt have got up the route if we had

In reply to davidbeynon:

When I went there in July 2005 it was like this too.

In reply to Chris James:

Out of interest, not having been there despite it being on the list for years, if you arrive at the top of a route that isn't near the via ferrata or the telepherique, what is to stop you using one of these decents? Is it too far? Too difficult? Other?

In reply to Pete Graham:
We did Don Quixote last year and I was a bit concerned about the descent (had been down it before when it was very icy) so I took lightweight boots and crampons and my partner took just boots. I am glad I did. As it was we abbed down onto the glacier and just had to reascend to the cable for a lift down to the valley (with 5 minutes spare...) My partner and hubby said I was a wuss for putting on the crampons, but it was basically the last steep bit from the end of the abseil onto the glacier proper that I didn't fancy without. It was only 50 metres or so, but it was steep enough and icy. If I wouldn't have had them I would have managed fine, but as I say I was glad I had them.

That said, the people in front of us only wore approach shoes and were fine, just slipping around a bit.
However, if you would have to descend all the way into the valley, I'd definitely want lightweight boots at least.

Now, this is all based on having snow on the glacier, might be a different story if it's all icy. So, maybe find out whether that's the case before setting off and then you can ditch the crampons if it's all soft snow. BTW very lightweight stuff will do IMHO.

In reply to jon:
Nothing, apart from the fact the last one down is at 4pm (roughly, seems to change depending on weather) You need to find out beforehand.

In reply to Heike:
oh, I meant to say "if you would have to descend all the way down in to the valley, I would want to have lightweight boots and crampons at least"

In reply to Heike:


And the via ferrata?

In reply to jon:
Don't know never topped out near the Ferrata, apart from when I did the Ferrata once years ago with all the cables frozen into ice, so there was no chance descending the same way....


Basically the Marmolada is a very long mountain (lengthways with many summits), so to get from one end or even a few little peaks further along back to the Ferrata or the Cable car is a lot of hastle, better to go down...

In reply to Heike:

OK, that makes sense. Thanks. I was just thinking it'd take you back to the start, or to the hut if you wanted to do another route the next day, rather than walking back up from the valley.

In reply to Pete Graham:

We topped out with approach shoes two years ago, bit slippy but no probs. It's probably best to walk down to the mid station rather than staying at the top station if you're late; The only shelter up there is a drafty concrete box, no blankets etc. Made for a very cold night lol. Good luck!

In reply to Luke Hunt:

Anyone know if the lift is working in September?

In reply to jon:

normally shiuts around mid September

In reply to PaleMan:

Thanks.