UKC

Best routes at Tremadog?

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 eccyamigo 11 Jul 2011
Ok folks im off to Tremadog for the first time,what are the best routes from Severe to HVS thats not to be missed??
 James Oswald 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:
Merlin Direct is very good.
OP eccyamigo 11 Jul 2011
In reply to James Oswald: Ive got the guide but dont want to come back aftyer two days climbing to be scoffed at for not missing a classic!! What grade is it?
 The Ivanator 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: S - Poor Man's Peuterey
HS - Christmas Curry (Micah Finish)
Valerie's Rib
Creagh Dhu Wall
VS - Grim Wall
One Step in the Clouds
Scratch
Clapton's Crack
OP eccyamigo 11 Jul 2011
In reply to The Ivanator: Great stuff, i will browse through the guide,thanks for the tips.
 mr mills 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:

Scratch Arete

Merlin Direct

Stromboli

Grim Wall
 joeydurkin 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:
> (In reply to James Oswald) Ive got the guide but dont want to come back aftyer two days climbing to be scoffed at for not missing a classic!! What grade is it?
Erm follow the guide? It's full of classic routes.
OP eccyamigo 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: Ok,got some good routes sorted thanks....now for the 2nd most important bit....best pub please??!!!
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: PMP is the best Severe
Obleron is a good Severe
Craig Dhu Wall and unmissable HS
Valeries Rib very good HS
Christmas Curry wiuth teh Micah Finish unmissable VS
One Step in the Cloud amazing VS
Grim Wall into the top pitich of Grim Wall Direct great HVS
Meshach excellent HVS
Shadrach Excellent VS
Merlin Direct amazing HVS
Yogi Great VS
Scratch Arete the most unmissable HVS

Should keep you busy for a couple of days
OP eccyamigo 11 Jul 2011
In reply to Mark Reeves: Cheers Mark,a few routes have been mentioned by several posts which sound good having browsed the guide
 robw007 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:
Mr Reeves has missed Stromboli from his list - the most remarkable and enjoyable HVS at Tremadog - keep the faith the holds keep coming!

ps - abb in - its more straightforward
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: Best pub? Stay in Llanberis and go to the heights, which is amazing since its been reopened.

There are a couple of pubs in Tremadog Village, both are OK. I think one is called the Golden Fleece.
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 11 Jul 2011
In reply to robw007: Rob, I am whipping myself with birch twigs as we speak for that. Yes Stromboli is very good, however accessing it as quickly as the other routes isn't easy. As walking to the top and finding where to abseil can be quite time consuming. If found it is good steep and like Rob said, just believe and good holds will arrive!
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 11 Jul 2011
 Rory Shaw 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: Strapiombo shouldn't be missed!
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 11 Jul 2011
In reply to Rory Shaw:
> (In reply to eccyamigo) Strapiombo shouldn't be missed!

Thwwwummp! <As sandbag hits the floor>

OP eccyamigo 11 Jul 2011
In reply to Mark Reeves: Cheers mark, great pics!! Yeah just read it, good article,thats sorted the campsite too at the back of the cafe.
In reply to eccyamigo:

Another vote for Merlin Direct
 Bulls Crack 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:
> (In reply to eccyamigo) Ok,got some good routes sorted thanks....now for the 2nd most important bit....best pub please??!!!


That's a harder one...you're in North Wales
 Leo Woodfelder 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: Another vote for Scratch arete! Second pitch is superb!
 Hat Dude 11 Jul 2011
In reply to Mark Reeves:

Best way to get to Stromboli is to do something like Scratch Arete then go along the top; down the descent next to Helsinki Wall and do the 1st pitch of Olympic Slab
 Simon Caldwell 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:

In addition to the popular classics already mentioned, I've got a soft spot for Borneo (VS).
 Owen W-G 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:

Scratch Arete and Mesach both super well-pro HVS

Xmas Curry and One Step in the Clouds easier and also v good.

Shadrach is not nice - unprotectable offwidth grovel
 mrchewy 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: Top two pitches on Poor Man's Peuterey are fantastic - such a quality position.
 John Ww 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo:

The one on the other side of the road if you stand with your back to the chip shop - The Golden Fleece. Live music, good beer, decent pub grub, quiet covered courtyard through the back. One of the few pubs actually worth visiting in north Wales.
 Pete Potter 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: Whilst I agree with Mark that The Heights has massively improved be carefull of the food and the prices, I was ripped of to the tune of £12 or £13 for a small bowl of bland sausage stew, isn't what I would call good but I would also agree with the Golden Fleece being good if your staying near Tramadog.
 peter myers 11 Jul 2011
In reply to Owen W-G: starting up Meshach then fiding your way into Shadrach above the off-width is great though.

Also the fang is an absolutely brilliant HVS, probably mentioned by Mark I imagine but id like to give it my vote.

Maybe not a classic as such, but Niffleheim is a much overlooked route- a fantastic adventure probably worth HVS?? definately worth doing sometime if you keep going back which i hope you do.
 stonemaster 11 Jul 2011
In reply to eccyamigo: Can't believe no one likes Mr Brown's Striptease. Goes in any but the very worst weather...
OP eccyamigo 11 Jul 2011


Thanks for all the tips everyone..i have a veritable tick list
In reply to peter myers:

Fang is getting a bit upper end for the range the OP was asking about. Striptease (someone else suggested) should certainly be high in the list.
 peter myers 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: Yeah I guess the Fang is a pretty commiting Hvs on the second pitch, sorry about that, not intending to sandbag anyone. But i felt it did fit into the S to Hvs category being a brilliant HVS route.

Don't get on it unless you are feeling solid at the grade readers! Then again Hvs gets a lot harder than that elsewhere doesn't it?
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