/ Wellington Crack
Not done it for a few years Paul, but there are plenty of ticks in the logbooks. What are you after?
I've done it twice. The first time I couldn't beleive how easy it was; on the second I couldn't believe how hard it was!
thread and only 4 replies.
I suggest some of you viewers get yourselves to Ilkley and get on it.
The gear's good and it's a good warm up for London Wall.
I'm a viewer, but sadly it's about 5 grades too hard for me :-)
I climbed it over 10 years ago now. will mail when home from work.
I fell off it thinking I could do it as a warm up. On TV. With John Dunne watching. It was quite embarrassing! I seem to remember it was quite powerful at the bottom and surprisingly tricky to get the gear in. And pumpy.
Was that an episode of Pennine Rock?
Is it available on DVD?
> Was that an episode of Pennine Rock?
I hope not ;-)
Oh that is just brilliant! Serious kudos for 'fessing that, on here. I'd have been tempted to raid the TV archives, recall every DVD, etc, etc.
Pete was going well when he did Wellington Crack - and it took a lot of working. It's always seemed like a trap for the unwary.
I guess, one day, I'll end up at the bottom and get to find out...
Is that what they mean by 'route reading'? ;-)
I did Wellington Crack many many moons ago and all I remember is that it was good, so probably not much help to anyone.
> I guess, one day, I'll end up at the bottom and get to find out...
Hmmm, I thought it was about as hard as LW. Whether that was because I thought it was going to be easy, or whether I thought LW was going to be desperate and therefore approached them in a totally different frame of mind, I've no idea.
But hell, in front of a camera...! I think you should hunt the footage down!
A guided ascent?
who are the climbers?
That deserves it's own thread and hopefully people will be named and shamed.
> That deserves it's own thread and hopefully people will be named and shamed.
I wonder if it's real or set up - there's almost no chalk in the crack...? Surely it'd be plastered.
that was you!
i seem to recall you got up it 2nd go though so it wasn't all bad.
"Climbing is an art,sometimes a transcendental art.It is best performed as dance,or as near dance as you can.
If you can't do the move,then become the person who CAN do the move."
That was some art work. If you can't remember the move then maybe you should you become the person who CAN remember the move instead of writing it all over the rock.
May I strongly suggest that you refrain from such excessive graffiti in the future.
Unbelievable behavior from anyone, but from someone who has been climbing for as long as you I am (almost) lost for words.
Are you trolling?
At it again hey Paul? I think you have some sort of chalk vendetta... first Newstones and Ramshaw, which you seemed apologetic for (same excuse of 'I forgot to rub it off'), then a few weeks later you claim an old route as a new route and think it funny to call it 'chalk police' (so you can't have actually felt apologetic) and now this.
Yeah, it washes off in the rain, but it looks disgusting in the meantime and gives all climbers a bad name and/or excuses the public to graffiti the crag by giving a bad example. And you ask 'who's onsighted the route', well, I imagine no-one whilst that drivel has been pasted all over the rock.
Completely unexcusable Paul, you've severely dropped in my expectations.
This must be a joke. Surely?
Stop learning Buddhism, and learn how to climb instead FFS.
> This must be a joke. Surely?
Not quite the same thing but some time ago I watched some bloke redpoint Wall of Horrors - he seemed to be 'with' some luminaries of the Yorshire scene - on (a lot of) pre-placed gear. He screamed with delight on topping out - I'm not quite sure why.
You had a very large chalk bag back in the late 80's I seem to remember...still using it up? ;-)
Thats not acceptable behaviour. Paul you should hang your head in shame.
He pretty much has:
Don't leave it too late then Mick, it's nails and I've only followed it:-)
I remember being there in 1987/88, I was messing around soloing easy stuff opposite Wellington and watching one of the current top climbers soloing it. He was leaning back with a hand jam in while someone was taking photo's.
Sadly I can't remember who it was, John someone? He was on the covers of climbing mags around that time. I guess this was towards the end of Ron's dominance.
Shortly after I fell at Malham and didn't climb for another 20 years.
Soljah has linked the UKB thread I referred to, just above.
...maybe I could have lead it!?
Probably John Dunne.
What happened Mike?
Council removed it I think after an accident eslewhere on their land
My recollection of the crag is very hazy and I don't really remember what was above the crack. How big was this thing?
Going out on a limb here, but I'd say it was because he was pleased with what he had achieved. Not everyone has the same goals as you! :)
Graffiti on the other hand, that's very short sighted, gives the rest of us a bad name.
> My recollection of the crag is very hazy and I don't really remember what was above the crack. How big was this thing?e
Probably about garden shed size IIRC. I led it in '83, on sight, really, really badly. It was out of my league then, two years later did it properly. Funnily enough it never felt E4, far too safe, more like E1 really. You couldn't hurt yourself if you tried. It wasn't even P3.
Quite a large block :-)
very different routes, tufted is very parallel sided and smooth, Wellington more locks and jams, I'd say the hardest move on tufted is harder than the hardest on Wellington.
Thanks, quite large indeed.
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