/ Wellington Crack

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paul mitchell - on 11 Jul 2011
If you have led or attempted Wellington Crack,please email me.
Thanks.

Mitch
Adam Long - on 11 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:

Not done it for a few years Paul, but there are plenty of ticks in the logbooks. What are you after?
Chris Shorter - on 11 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:

I've done it twice. The first time I couldn't beleive how easy it was; on the second I couldn't believe how hard it was!

Chris
paul mitchell - on 12 Jul 2011
In reply to Chris Shorter: I've had 300+ views on this
thread and only 4 replies.

I suggest some of you viewers get yourselves to Ilkley and get on it.
The gear's good and it's a good warm up for London Wall.
John2 - on 12 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell: I've a reasonable photo of it here http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=1588
Simon Caldwell - on 12 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:
> I suggest some of you viewers get yourselves to Ilkley and get on it.

I'm a viewer, but sadly it's about 5 grades too hard for me :-)
JSA - on 12 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:

I climbed it over 10 years ago now. will mail when home from work.
Stone Muppet - on 12 Jul 2011
might try later this summer...
andi turner - on 12 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell: I don't understand. What do you want to know Paul?
In reply to paul mitchell:

I fell off it thinking I could do it as a warm up. On TV. With John Dunne watching. It was quite embarrassing! I seem to remember it was quite powerful at the bottom and surprisingly tricky to get the gear in. And pumpy.
The Scarlet Pimpernel on 12 Jul 2011 - 94-195-177-100.zone9.bethere.co.uk
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:

Was that an episode of Pennine Rock?

Is it available on DVD?

Ta.
In reply to The Scarlet Pimpernel:
> (In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe)
>
> Was that an episode of Pennine Rock?

Yes.

> Is it available on DVD?

I hope not ;-)

paul mitchell - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell: Thanks Tom;at last someone prepared to admit it's proper 'ard!

Mitch
Mick Ward - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:

> I fell off it thinking I could do it as a warm up. On TV. With John Dunne watching. It was quite embarrassing!

Oh that is just brilliant! Serious kudos for 'fessing that, on here. I'd have been tempted to raid the TV archives, recall every DVD, etc, etc.

Pete was going well when he did Wellington Crack - and it took a lot of working. It's always seemed like a trap for the unwary.

I guess, one day, I'll end up at the bottom and get to find out...

Mick

In reply to paul mitchell: Now would seem to be a good time to try the route if you're looking for beta. Many of the gear and hand placements have been marked with chalk, there are lines all the way up the route pointing out the best holds and even notes written on the cliff like 'R hand' and '#2 cam'.
john arran - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Alastair Lee:
> Many of the gear and hand placements have been marked with chalk, there are lines all the way up the route pointing out the best holds and even notes written on the cliff like 'R hand' and '#2 cam'.

Is that what they mean by 'route reading'? ;-)



I did Wellington Crack many many moons ago and all I remember is that it was good, so probably not much help to anyone.
jon on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Mick Ward:
> (In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe)
> I guess, one day, I'll end up at the bottom and get to find out...
>
> Mick


Hmmm, I thought it was about as hard as LW. Whether that was because I thought it was going to be easy, or whether I thought LW was going to be desperate and therefore approached them in a totally different frame of mind, I've no idea.

But hell, in front of a camera...! I think you should hunt the footage down!
In reply to john arran: ha ha, good one, yeah it definitely invalidates the on sight but I'm not sure how you'd categorize an ascent in its current state (presuming ground up no pre-practice), perhaps a 'Text-point'?
john arran - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Alastair Lee:

A guided ascent?
Offwidth - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Alastair Lee: Have you put this on the UKB tickmark hall of shame thread??
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In reply to Offwidth: Didn't know such a thing existed, this would be prime subject matter for said thread, although this is taking tickmarks to a new level...
Simon Caldwell - on 15 Jul 2011
silo - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Toreador: That's nuts! its safe has houses!
PeteH - on 15 Jul 2011
I was thinking about having a go in the autumn if training goes to plan, but this thread hasn't done much to dispel my concerns about it being a sandbag at E4 5c! Maybe I should wait until I'm solid at E5 :P

Pete.
Lemony - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Toreador: hmmm.. the OP has a bit of previous with regards ridiculous chalk abuse: http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/?action=view&current=IMG00181-20100831-1821.jpg
unclesamsauntibess - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to John2:
> (In reply to paul mitchell) I've a reasonable photo of it here http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=1588

who are the climbers?
John2 - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to unclesamsauntibess: The leader is Fred Simpson - I don't think he climbs any more. He's wearing his grandfather's vest, as I recall.
Enty - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Toreador:

That deserves it's own thread and hopefully people will be named and shamed.

E
conorcussell - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Enty: If only i was in leeds at the moment, i could take advantage and actually climb wellington crack!
jon on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Toreador)
> [...]
>
> That deserves it's own thread and hopefully people will be named and shamed.
>
> E


I wonder if it's real or set up - there's almost no chalk in the crack...? Surely it'd be plastered.
Alex@home - on 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:

that was you!
i seem to recall you got up it 2nd go though so it wasn't all bad.
paul mitchell - on 16 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell: My ticks on Wellington.Apologies for not removing them.I'll get me coat...
Jon Ratcliffe - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell: From your own profile:

"Climbing is an art,sometimes a transcendental art.It is best performed as dance,or as near dance as you can.

If you can't do the move,then become the person who CAN do the move."

That was some art work. If you can't remember the move then maybe you should you become the person who CAN remember the move instead of writing it all over the rock.

May I strongly suggest that you refrain from such excessive graffiti in the future.
Unbelievable behavior from anyone, but from someone who has been climbing for as long as you I am (almost) lost for words.

Enty - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:
> (In reply to paul mitchell) My ticks on Wellington.Apologies for not removing them.I'll get me coat...

Are you trolling?

E

andi turner - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:

At it again hey Paul? I think you have some sort of chalk vendetta... first Newstones and Ramshaw, which you seemed apologetic for (same excuse of 'I forgot to rub it off'), then a few weeks later you claim an old route as a new route and think it funny to call it 'chalk police' (so you can't have actually felt apologetic) and now this.

Yeah, it washes off in the rain, but it looks disgusting in the meantime and gives all climbers a bad name and/or excuses the public to graffiti the crag by giving a bad example. And you ask 'who's onsighted the route', well, I imagine no-one whilst that drivel has been pasted all over the rock.

Completely unexcusable Paul, you've severely dropped in my expectations.
Steve Findlay - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to Chris Shorter: I remember the second occasion Chris, a bit messy all round I believe.....
Steve Findlay - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner: How pleasantly refreshing to hear someone else having a good rant about chalk.
Adam Lincoln - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to Toreador:

This must be a joke. Surely?

Goucho on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:

Stop learning Buddhism, and learn how to climb instead FFS.
Bulls Crack - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to Toreador)
> [...]
>
> This must be a joke. Surely?

Not quite the same thing but some time ago I watched some bloke redpoint Wall of Horrors - he seemed to be 'with' some luminaries of the Yorshire scene - on (a lot of) pre-placed gear. He screamed with delight on topping out - I'm not quite sure why.
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Bulls Crack - on 17 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:

You had a very large chalk bag back in the late 80's I seem to remember...still using it up? ;-)
Souljah - on 18 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:
Thats not acceptable behaviour. Paul you should hang your head in shame.
mark s - on 18 Jul 2011
In reply to Souljah: paul could have his own thread for tick mark hall of shame,it would be full. I suppose he could also have a thread "new routes that arnt new at all"
Souljah - on 18 Jul 2011
Al Evans on 18 Jul 2011
In reply to Mick Ward:
> (In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe)
I guess, one day, I'll end up at the bottom and get to find out...
>
> Mick

Don't leave it too late then Mick, it's nails and I've only followed it:-)
Al
Tiberius - on 18 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell:

I remember being there in 1987/88, I was messing around soloing easy stuff opposite Wellington and watching one of the current top climbers soloing it. He was leaning back with a hand jam in while someone was taking photo's.

Sadly I can't remember who it was, John someone? He was on the covers of climbing mags around that time. I guess this was towards the end of Ron's dominance.

Shortly after I fell at Malham and didn't climb for another 20 years.
Offwidth - on 19 Jul 2011
In reply to Alastair Lee:

Soljah has linked the UKB thread I referred to, just above.
In reply to paul mitchell: WT... I remember top roping the route,(never good enough to lead) back in mid 90's before PL left us, and was lucky enough to get his thoughts on the route. Point being I top roped and had ago, my memory isnt that great and i might have over chalked my hand occasionally, but mapping a route like this...
...maybe I could have lead it!?
pasbury on 25 Jul 2011
In reply to Tiberius:

Probably John Dunne.
Mike Hammill - on 25 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell: Flashed Wellington in 1988. Quite pleased as Allan and Bancroft couldn't! It is pretty trashed now though. The removal of the capping block means it gets wet and debris washes down it. A lot of the atmosphere has gone too - brooding roof at the top made it quite impressive.
Cheers,

Mike Hammill
jon on 25 Jul 2011
In reply to Mike Hammill:

> The removal of the capping block means it gets wet and debris washes down it. A lot of the atmosphere has gone too - brooding roof at the top made it quite impressive.

What happened Mike?

Bulls Crack - on 25 Jul 2011
In reply to jon:

Council removed it I think after an accident eslewhere on their land
jon on 25 Jul 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack:

My recollection of the crag is very hazy and I don't really remember what was above the crack. How big was this thing?
Stone Muppet - on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> Not quite the same thing but some time ago I watched some bloke redpoint Wall of Horrors - on (a lot of) pre-placed gear. He screamed with delight on topping out - I'm not quite sure why.

Going out on a limb here, but I'd say it was because he was pleased with what he had achieved. Not everyone has the same goals as you! :)

Graffiti on the other hand, that's very short sighted, gives the rest of us a bad name.
unclesamsauntibess - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
>
> My recollection of the crag is very hazy and I don't really remember what was above the crack. How big was this thing?e

Probably about garden shed size IIRC. I led it in '83, on sight, really, really badly. It was out of my league then, two years later did it properly. Funnily enough it never felt E4, far too safe, more like E1 really. You couldn't hurt yourself if you tried. It wasn't even P3.

Michael Hood - on 27 Jul 2011
roberto18 - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to conorcussell: Considering you fell on Tufted crack, Wellington crack might be a touch hard
richardh - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to roberto18:

very different routes, tufted is very parallel sided and smooth, Wellington more locks and jams, I'd say the hardest move on tufted is harder than the hardest on Wellington.
victorclimber - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to paul mitchell: Quite funny this thread people getting upset about chalk marks on Wellington Crack,even calling it Graffiti !! well I thought all the chalk on the rock is Graffiti just makes the routes easier ,so why the fuss about Wellington ?
jon on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to Michael Hood:

Thanks, quite large indeed.
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