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40 metre wall for Weston

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 John Alcock 22 Jul 2011
Plans for a 40 metre wall for Weston-super-Mare have been approved. The press release is below. Does a 40 metre wall really make sense?

One of the largest leisure development schemes in the UK has gained overwhelming planning approval from North Somerset Council yesterday evening (21 July 2011), and is set to provide a major jobs and leisure boost for Weston-super-Mare. The application now goes to the Secretary of State for Communities & Local Government for review before final approval is granted.

Based on a 12.7 acre site at Locking Parklands, a former RAF site in Weston-Super-Mare, the £50 million Leisuredome attraction will provide weather-reliable and world leading extreme sports and recreational activities all year-round.

The Leisuredome will boast a 210 metre ski slope, the longest in the UK, and an indoor climbing centre with a 40 metre climbing wall, the tallest in the world, alongside an indoor surfing centre and sky-diving facility. It will also support the local community with fitness and meeting facilities, including a children’s centre, BMX skateboard park and gymnasium.

Being developed by Leisuredome (UK) Ltd, the new facility is the brainchild of directors Mark and Clive Hamilton-Davies who have combined their business success and personal passion of skiing to create the leisure and sport facility.

More than 573 direct and 256 indirect jobs will be created by the development, which has already secured 92% of its retail and activity concessions.

Clive Hamilton-Davies, director, Leisuredome (UK) Ltd, said: “We’re absolutely delighted that planning approval has been granted by the Council. The Leisuredome has had overwhelming support from the local community, regional business and sports clubs from further afield.

“This decision is a major economic and leisure boost for the West Country and for the town of Weston-Super-Mare. It will deliver employment-led regeneration in an area where there is long term unemployment and provide a direct investment of £50m to the town.

“Our development will build on Weston’s growing reputation as a leisure destination and the success of the Grand Pier which reopened last year. We estimate it will attract 550,000 visitors in the first year, which will add to the £369 million already generated by tourism in the local economy every year.”

It is hoped that work will commence as early as December this year and the facility will open in early 2013. Sir Robert McAlpine will be the main contractor.

 Kyle Warlow 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock:

Ha! Gutted for the route setters lol
 ClimberEd 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock:

30m would make more sense so people can climb it with a 60 rope.

Bloody good idea, great for training.
 Monk 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock:

Unless they hire out 80m ropes, this will end up being quite a specialist wall! Most people have a 60m rope, so a 30-35m wall would be ok, but 40 sounds a bit daft to me. I'd probably head down to have a look though.
 Lord_ash2000 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Yeah I heard about this a while ago. Onyl a small section will be to 40m (about 4-6 lines) and its likly to be almost vertical. More a bit of a show peice than anything usefull. The rest of the centre should be half decent though. Although not huge in terms of actual floor space.
 another_mark 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Obvious question is will it be multi-pitch?
 koalapie 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Wow sounds awesome. They may have two or three anchors perhaps over 40 m for shorter ropes/routes. If I lived locally and the route setting was good I would certainly consider buying an 80. Stationary wave!? OMG.
OP John Alcock 22 Jul 2011
In reply to koalapie:
If it's only a few 40 metre routes I guess it might be okay and obviously good for say teaching multi-pitch and getting stamina, but generally I suggest having many routes that long wouldn't be commercially viable as they'd take too long to climb and most people still don't have 80 metre ropes.

Mind you maybe I could get a full time job route-setting, particularly if they gave me free skiing.

I also wonder if the wall in Weston will be more aimed at tourists and they certainly don't need long routes to get knackered.
 MJ 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock:

If the route is overhanging you might need a rope longer than 80 metres.
Additionally, you would have to have some routes which make full use of the entire wall by some epic diagonal traverses etc. I reckon 100 metres might suffice.
 Richard Hall 22 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Hey John, got some long draws here.

Dick
OP John Alcock 22 Jul 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:
Thanks I'll pop in
 chris j 29 Jul 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Impressive plan, interesting diversification from two blokes whose main business is selling bar code readers. I see the guys from Dart Rock are going to be managing the climbing wall side of things, hopefully it will live up to the name they've chosen of 'Extreme Rock' and it's not all just aimed at the holiday parks of Weston...
 robbie Warke 02 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: for more information go to http://www.facebook.com/pages/Extreme-Rock-Climbing-Centre/216021935091280
and join the facebook page
 toad 02 Aug 2011
In reply to chris j:
hopefully it will live up to the name they've chosen of 'Extreme Rock' and it's not all just aimed at the holiday parks of Weston...

Hmmm. What do you think?

 Bulls Crack 02 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock:

Maybe it's 40 metres wide?

Never mind the length - make sure it's good quality. We've had a 22 metre wall open-up near here recently but it's not that great as yet.
 chris j 02 Aug 2011
In reply to toad:
> (In reply to chris j)

> Hmmm. What do you think?

What do I think? To be honest sadly I think I'll probably end up keeping on commuting north to use the circuit board at TCA.
 Mark Edwards 02 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock:
>
> The Leisuredome will boast a 210 metre ski slope, the longest in the UK, >

That looks like a council issued press release to me i.e. to hell with the facts lets just print what we want (the last time I looked Wales was still part of the UK) So maybe that 40 meter wall is actually 4.0 meter.

“Located within Pontypool Park is one of Wales' longest dry ski slopes. A 230m slope serviced by 1 poma tow and 1 rope tow.”

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-south-east-wales-14012750
 DrGav 02 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock:

Sounds brilliant. It must be rather hard to set interesting 40m routes though!

Guess they wanted 40m to beat the Dutch.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1827
 Cypher 03 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Sounds bloody brilliant.

So not only do I have:
Undercover Rock
The Climbing Academy
Avon Gorge

on my doorstep.

I have Cheddar Gorge, the Wye Valley and this newfangled centre at Weston Super Mud opening.

Oh the joys of being a Bristolian.

Maybe I won't be moving after all :P
 simon.roberts 03 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Im sure in my local climbing wall newletter last month they said that it is a 40mtr high wall, and that they will be looking after the wall and setting the routes. (dartrock ashburton)
 robbie Warke 03 Aug 2011
Please check our facebook page for details. Extreme rock will indeed have a 40m high section of wall, however the centre will be huge with lots of leading, toproping, bouldering making the centre one of the largest in the country, a truely impressive wall for the South West. Dart Rock are financing, building and managing the wall.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Extreme-Rock-Climbing-Centre/216021935091280
 robbie Warke 08 Aug 2011
In reply to robbie Warke:

We will be choosing our wall builder in the next few days and as soon as we can we will be publishing the designs for comment
 robbie Warke 11 Aug 2011
In reply to robbie Warke: We aim to work closely with the BMC and the GB team to produce a truely awesome facility, more news soon
 lowersharpnose 11 Aug 2011
In reply to robbie Warke:

Don't buy an Entre-Prises Wall.

Remember Ratho, so large it can't cover its running costs and it bankrupted the original funder - all as as I recall.

How many punters a day do you need to cover your running and payback costs?
 robbie Warke 11 Aug 2011
In reply to lowersharpnose: Hi Thank you for your feedback. Our model is very different compared with Ratho and we have calculated our visitor numbers closely.
Entre prise is one of the runners but we have made no decisions as yet
 lowersharpnose 11 Aug 2011
In reply to robbie Warke:

Faceted ply is the way to go, with lots and lots of bolt on hold sites.

Did I mention that I don't think you should buy Entre-Prises.

Get Living Stone, Crispin is very creative with his designs.
PTR 13 Aug 2011
In reply to lowersharpnose:

It doesn't matter who built Ratho, it would not have worked!!

EP have just built our new wall in Exeter, looks fab and is of a totaly new design and concept. But then again, have you had a wall built by EP for you, or is that just your opinion?
 lowersharpnose 14 Aug 2011
In reply to littleone:

But then again, have you had a wall built by EP for you, or is that just your opinion?

Of course it is my opinion.

I have been in more than one bid that involved Entre-Prises.

What is the totally new design and concept?
 robbie Warke 22 Aug 2011
In reply to robbie Warke: We will be letting you all know who will be building our mammoth wall soon we hope.
 Yanis Nayu 22 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: It's 40m wide, and only 6m high.
In reply to lowersharpnose: My money would be on King Kong/Walltopia winning the bid on price. A pint on it?
 robbie Warke 22 Aug 2011
In reply to wayno265: No mate, see our facebook page for the full proposed stats
 lowersharpnose 22 Aug 2011
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Not quite sure what I am betting on, but you're on.
 robbie Warke 22 Aug 2011
In reply to Graeme Alderson: Well Graham its currently between two, if you can guess who your first climb is free!!!
 Yanis Nayu 22 Aug 2011
In reply to robbie Warke:
> (In reply to wayno265) No mate, see our facebook page for the full proposed stats

Whoosh!
 robbie Warke 29 Aug 2011
In reply to wayno265: We are keen to get feedbak as to what you would like to see at Extreme Rock, what is important to you?
 will909 29 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Has this got the go ahead? I thought I read there were plans for a new village at that site?
 Legionreturns 29 Aug 2011
Less blank, flat ply, more realistic featured walls please! And at 40m.. put a belay half way up!
 robbie Warke 29 Aug 2011
In reply to will909: It has indeed got the go ahead, planning came through a few weeks ago! Climb on!
 AJM 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Legionreturns:

Complete opposite for me - steep flat ply walls with well set routes are all that's really needed. And to be fair, yes, a selection of 30-35m routes so we can use existing 60-70m ropes on them would be pretty neat
 chers 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Legionreturns:
Too many walls are flat, featureless and multi-coloured...be brave and be different. Look at the Barn or Beacon...
 Paul Hy 29 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: Multi-coloured walls are funky but doesn't help you transit to real rock. so half and half would be good with easier routes on the multi-colured walls. 40m though is simple too tall. but the most important thing is don't do what they have done at the Trafford Centre Aereal Extreme where to climb for 1 adult is a whopping £25 for 2 hours i've been there at 7 on a Wed and there was about 5 people in there. Awesome walls costs me £7 for as long as i like, noramlly 3-4 hours and its normally full 30+ people. i.e. £25x5 = £125 against £7x30 = £210 and i would bet Aereal Exreme don't get the return customers that Awesome gets.
 chris j 30 Aug 2011
In reply to will909:
> (In reply to John Alcock) Has this got the go ahead? I thought I read there were plans for a new village at that site?

It's part of a redevelopment of an old airfield - leisure centre, 800 houses, primary school, local shops etc.

 Phil1919 30 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: I don't understand how ski slopes fit in with CO2 reductions? Does this show a lack of joined up thinking or politicians unable to make sound decisions because of short termism.
 robbie Warke 30 Aug 2011
In reply to chris j: Thanks for the feedback guys, rest assured Extreme Rock is going to be great. Please check out and join our facebook group to keep up to date with this exciting project
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Extreme-Rock-Climbing-Centre/216021935091280
 kiwi boy 30 Aug 2011
In reply to John Alcock: This all sounds great. If you are putting in a ski slope how about making a few ice routes such as the ice factor esp if you have 40 metres to play with.
Cheers Andy

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