/ NEWS: DANGER: Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress
Climbers are asked to avoid the North Buttress of Castle Rock for the time being.
Please read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63191
The new Eastern guide is going to be rather out of date after this, sadly
Looks like a splendid new route. If someone gets on it, please do film...
Think the BMC could be very pro active here, by hosting possibly the biggest boulder trundle session ever seen in the lakes ;)
As always though, concise reporting from Stephen & Steve.
Bomber gear though ...
Ummm a) might not be anything to do with it and (b) probably illegal!
Looks alarming. I'm trying to remember whether the buildings below are in the line of fire; the road certainly is. Leaving aside the climbing issues for a second there is clearly going to have to be some critical inspection and possibly a very complex stabilisation operation.
> Ummm a) might not be anything to do with it and (b) probably illegal!
VERY likely tree roots are the problem. Illegal who cares... half the Borrowdale climbers would have been in jail for this offence! Much better to take out a couple of trees than have mass destruction of everything below. Go to it .. from X Forestry Worker
It's actually quite a way from the road but it is steep and right over it, so not totally impossible.
It doesn't look to me that killing some trees will make this 'safe'.
You don't, perhaps, sir, feel that you've already had your fair share of fun on this crag? Rigor Mortis was, indeed, "a bit stiff". And the old debate about sticking gear in Triermain Eliminate and having to rest on it? A wasp settled the problem for me by zinging up my shirt, thereby facilitating a somewhat hasty (one runner) ascent.
Ted Cheasby in a gentle drizzle (they told me it was an easy E1!) and Ghost (after Bonington pulled a hold off and declared it unclimbable)...
All in all, a naughty little crag. Little did I know it was all just a warm-up for your horror of horrors, Post Mortem.
Scary, worth also noting this on the logbook.
Talking of 'naughty little crag'. I remember when Agony was HVS. Absolutely outrageous.
> It's actually quite a way from the road but it is steep and right over it, so not totally impossible.
> It doesn't look to me that killing some trees will make this 'safe'.
"Safe' nothing is totally safe if you rock climb.That's one of the reason's some of us do it. Castle Rock is now no more dangerous (perhaps less) than climbimg on or walking below an Alpine face.Just climb OB before the sun gets on it ...good luck.
Err... isn't Agony HVS? It was the first route we did on the crag. I remember my mate, Deke, shouting up, "Can't you get some gear in, Mick?" and me muttering, "Well, no... not really." Soloed to the top. Should have learned something from that but (being very young and even more foolish), didn't.
You need Gibson up there. There is literally nothing that guy can't fix with a pot of sika #everything at masson lees.
Elsewhere on the site
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more