/ NEWS: VIDEO: Fall off Strain Station - E4 - Roaches

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UKC News - on 26 Jul 2011
Strain Station Fall, 4 kbCan it be that an E4 on a well known grit crag can lay unrepeated for 30 years?

This was like a red rag to a bull for Pete Bridgwood - who takes quite a fall in the following video...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63255

Monk - on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

That looks like a brilliant little route!
ChrisHolloway1 - on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: Nice 1 Pete
jas wood - on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: like it :O)
Jiduvah - on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: Wow that guys climbs so quickly. Well done
wilsers on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: Ok Newbie question - In the first attempt why did he leave the set of wires with the last piece of protection?

Andy
lithos on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to wilsers:

* weight it down so it doesn't lift out,
* knows he doesn't need em later on (as evident later)
* and also though not so important less wight to carry
phleppy on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: A great short vid, a nice little story....A+ but it must have been done since fA, not that ive been to roaches like!
Jack Luke - on 26 Jul 2011
Who else boked with panic as he flipped hitting the first slab...
Wee Davie - on 26 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Great wee film. I loved his comment about thinking he should have worn a helmet!
andi turner - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to phleppy: why must it have?
David Kay - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: Nice work! Please get a helmet... : )
phleppy on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner: I dunno, its popular place & its only E4, they`ll be many climbers who dont let the climbing community & guidebook editors know about their exploits.
SCC - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to phleppy:

Well, 7 speople have voted for the grade on the UKC logbooks, bit nobody has it in their logbook.

Not quite sure how that works, but still...

Si
Mike Nolan - on 27 Jul 2011
Video not appearing on iPhone 4 with OS 4.3.3 :-(

Mike
In reply to phleppy:
> I dunno, its popular place & its only E4, they`ll be many climbers who dont let the climbing community & guidebook editors know about their exploits.

I tend to agree, who is to say it hasn't been repeated (I'll check my guide when I get home!)?

I remember and article in Climber years ago by Jim Perrin, going on about how no-one had ever bothered to repeat Atlantic Ocean Wall, and Edward's route at Lands End. At the time knew three people who had done it - including me, and there could have been many more!


Chris
andi turner - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to phleppy: Only E4? E4's can be extremely hard and it's probably closer to E6... Voila 3, Summo Cellulite, both E4, lower tier, I'd be extremely surprised if they'd been repeated. Or Sidewinder or Steps or Gillted...I cleaned then climbed Punch a few weeks back, I'd be amazed if that had been climbed in the last 15 years, again a starred route on one of the most popular crags in the country and "only" E4

Yes, there are some 'dark horses' who secretly tick off test pieces, but a lot less than you'd imagine.

Pete is a superb climber, but I know he has had to put a lot of effort into climbing this route. Even routes like Secrets of Dance, Licence to Lust, Drop Acid, and Slips have at most had a handful of ascents. It'd be great to think that all routes get their fair share of ascents, but people tend to stick to the same old ones time and again.

I'd put 10 down that Pete's is the second ascent.
lowersharpnose - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner:

Is this the first ascent (the first non-ballpoint)?

Jon Read - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner:
Or even...?

Electric Savage (ramshaw)
Sketching Wildly

Jellyfish (hen cloud)
Aretenophobia
Night Prowler
Frayed Nerve
Driven Bow
Songs of Praise
Loose Fingers
Jean the Bean
Levitation
The Raid
Monkey in you Soul
Catharsis
Justin Time
Myxi
Scrumptious
Mandatory
Mandrill
Chicken Direct
Mindbridge

... and some of them are E2!
davidj on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner:

I'd put 10 down that Pete was bricking himself in mid-air Andi! I blame the belayer...

Funnily enough, I know Pete and his brother Dom both did Summo Cellulite not too long ago, think Dom flashed it. A much neglected classic!

He is also quite a good spotter...

http://www.vimeo.com/20950672

Nice one lads
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Scarab - on 27 Jul 2011
Dont like to moan, but he couldve ended up worse regarding not wearing a helmet..

Still pretty good effort going back on the route!
valentinesbabe - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to David Kirsfelds:
I'll second that...superb climb!!
phleppy on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner: Ok, calm down deer, E4 is definately a challenge for most climbers & me as ive only top roped one & he obviously is a great climber & he climbed very well making it look like a great route, im not slagging him off so chill out!
You cant 100% know that he is the second ascentionist though but again i liked the story behind it & hope it is true as the less repeated any routes are the better i reckon, them parts of crags that are rarely visited are magical sometimes.
Enty - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

No ticks in the UKC logbook - that seals it then - definitely unrepeated ;-)

E
Gibson - on 27 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Was this not ages ago? Sure I saw it on a DVD, not sure which one though.
justin c - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: Worth asking simon nadin If he has been on it.
Great effort Pete . !!
Dave Garnett - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to Jon Read:

Surely Driven Bow gets done, given the excellent coverage it got in the guide?!

I have a strange yen to have a go at Jellyfish if I can figure out exactly where it goes and find time to take a scrubbing brush to it.
mark s - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to Dave Garnett: I'd got driven bow sorted and was ready to crack on with it,but changed my mind.not doing anything like that again.

As for strain station I would be very surprised if no one else had done it
Jus - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to Jon Read:

Don't think Icarus Allsorts at the Clouds has seen that many ascents either! Ace route.
Jon Read - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Out of all proportion to its size!
Jellyfish would be a good route, but for the rock being infinitely scrittly there; brush off one layer and another layer of ball bearings presents itself. Give me a shout, I'll have another go at it, but do remember it was an E4 that I WOULD NEVER lead.
dror - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

looks like theres some pro in the small crack just before he stands up on the exit, if so that would be far less scary. of course hard to see from behind the keyboard..
robert mirfin - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to Jon Read: quite a few of these have been repeated
Col Allott - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Strain Station has been on 'the list' for a long time. However every time I'm up there I go- "nah, not today..."
I imagine there's always been at least a handful of climbers doing this for 30 years!
Souljah - on 28 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

2nd ascent or 6th its still a fine effort... And lets not forget, its hardly prime conditions for grit out there at the moment!
Most people are clipping bolts or ticking over on easier terrain.
All the more reason to congratulate Pete for getting stuck into this gem.
Well done Pete.
Jon Read - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to robert mirfin:
I'm sure some of them have, but which?? and when?? and by who??
Go on, Rob, spill the beans. Hard facts are what's needed, as usual.

Btw, I cleaned Frayed Nerve last night (a bit of an undertaking!), all expect the final groove, which should be a formality and there's good gear just below. All ready for on-sighters, safe but fluttery.

(Caveats apply; I tried to clean more than just the holds I would need, but if you're a 5'5" climber who climbs grit in exactly the same way as I do you'll be ok.)
andi turner - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to robert mirfin:

This what I hate! It's a discussion that's been going round and round for years and years.

If people want to say with clarity that something has been repeated/climbed whatever, why won't they say so?

I've never understood the idea behind 'dark horses'. They only rear up when it's time for a counter claim.

Which have been repeated Rob? It's really helpful for future ascentionists to know whether a route's grade (if nothing else) is close to the mark. In the list that Readza gave above, almost all the grades are questionable.

I still reckon that Pete's ascent is the second ascent, occam's razor and all that.
andi turner - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to davidj:
> (In reply to andi turner)
>
>
> He is also quite a good spotter...
>
> http://www.vimeo.com/20950672
>
> Nice one lads

Awesome vid! Those Bridgwoods just love falling off!
davidj on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner:

Cheers mate, he did do it after falling off though. Brilliant sequence on Script - equally as good as Entropy's Jaw, if not better!
Ian Parsons - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner:

<Or Sidewinder or Steps or Gillted.>

I think Steps had an ascent a few years ago from somebody called Neil Foster, whoever he is.
Jon Read - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Does a repeat ascent of ones own route really count as a second ascent?
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Ian Parsons - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to Jon Read:

Ha! I'd forgotten that small detail - which explains the route name.
Jon Read - on 29 Jul 2011
Jellyfish saw an ascent today by Pete, apparently. Nutter.
andi turner - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to Jon Read: Followed by the youngest of the brothers grim, Seb.
Dave Garnett - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to andi turner:

That's a relief. Any recommendations for something inexplicably unrepeated despite being well-protected and apparently soft for E2?
Neil Foster - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to Jon Read:
> (In reply to Ian Parsons)
>
> Does a repeat ascent of ones own route really count as a second ascent?

Actually I did lead the whole thing twice - originally starting up the wide crack on the right, and returning a few days later to add an independent start (whilst under sustained attack from a million midges).

As for Mr Parsons coming on here and spilling the beans about my favourite band, that really was quite uncalled for...

Neil
northy1983 - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

hi all, nice to see your having fun with the vid we did.
I think strain station deserves much more attention, despite the rubbish fall, the climbing is relativly straight forward. 2nd acsent or not, it was a great route and has the classic grit exposure, more vids to follow soon, so watch this space.

check my gallery for a pic of jellyfish at hen cloud from today, sadly seb who took the shot was also the only spotter, so i rather he run down and spot then take pictures. but credit to seb who swiftly followed on up behind me and to dom that onsighted it tonight.


happy days
Ian Parsons - on 29 Jul 2011
In reply to Neil Foster:

Oops...
eivindf - on 31 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Cool video! Looks exciting, you should at least wear a hat. You look awfully familiar, did I climb with you at Seynes and the Ardeche spring 2010? If you're the same Pete I hope all is well and your trip to Font was good! Cheers, Eivind
Barneyscreek - on 01 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Met the lad who was belaying In this video last Friday up at wings of unreason really nice guy, cheers for the mat as well even tho it would. Have made any difference the phycological value was massive

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