/ NEWS: VIDEO: Fall off Strain Station - E4 - Roaches
This was like a red rag to a bull for Pete Bridgwood - who takes quite a fall in the following video...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63255
That looks like a brilliant little route!
* weight it down so it doesn't lift out,
* knows he doesn't need em later on (as evident later)
* and also though not so important less wight to carry
Great wee film. I loved his comment about thinking he should have worn a helmet!
Well, 7 speople have voted for the grade on the UKC logbooks, bit nobody has it in their logbook.
Not quite sure how that works, but still...
I tend to agree, who is to say it hasn't been repeated (I'll check my guide when I get home!)?
I remember and article in Climber years ago by Jim Perrin, going on about how no-one had ever bothered to repeat Atlantic Ocean Wall, and Edward's route at Lands End. At the time knew three people who had done it - including me, and there could have been many more!
Yes, there are some 'dark horses' who secretly tick off test pieces, but a lot less than you'd imagine.
Pete is a superb climber, but I know he has had to put a lot of effort into climbing this route. Even routes like Secrets of Dance, Licence to Lust, Drop Acid, and Slips have at most had a handful of ascents. It'd be great to think that all routes get their fair share of ascents, but people tend to stick to the same old ones time and again.
I'd put £10 down that Pete's is the second ascent.
Is this the first ascent (the first non-ballpoint)?
Electric Savage (ramshaw)
Jellyfish (hen cloud)
Songs of Praise
Jean the Bean
Monkey in you Soul
... and some of them are E2!
I'd put £10 down that Pete was bricking himself in mid-air Andi! I blame the belayer...
Funnily enough, I know Pete and his brother Dom both did Summo Cellulite not too long ago, think Dom flashed it. A much neglected classic!
He is also quite a good spotter...
Nice one lads
Still pretty good effort going back on the route!
I'll second that...superb climb!!
You cant 100% know that he is the second ascentionist though but again i liked the story behind it & hope it is true as the less repeated any routes are the better i reckon, them parts of crags that are rarely visited are magical sometimes.
No ticks in the UKC logbook - that seals it then - definitely unrepeated ;-)
Was this not ages ago? Sure I saw it on a DVD, not sure which one though.
Great effort Pete . !!
Surely Driven Bow gets done, given the excellent coverage it got in the guide?!
I have a strange yen to have a go at Jellyfish if I can figure out exactly where it goes and find time to take a scrubbing brush to it.
As for strain station I would be very surprised if no one else had done it
Don't think Icarus Allsorts at the Clouds has seen that many ascents either! Ace route.
Out of all proportion to its size!
Jellyfish would be a good route, but for the rock being infinitely scrittly there; brush off one layer and another layer of ball bearings presents itself. Give me a shout, I'll have another go at it, but do remember it was an E4 that I WOULD NEVER lead.
looks like theres some pro in the small crack just before he stands up on the exit, if so that would be far less scary. of course hard to see from behind the keyboard..
Strain Station has been on 'the list' for a long time. However every time I'm up there I go- "nah, not today..."
I imagine there's always been at least a handful of climbers doing this for 30 years!
2nd ascent or 6th its still a fine effort... And lets not forget, its hardly prime conditions for grit out there at the moment!
Most people are clipping bolts or ticking over on easier terrain.
All the more reason to congratulate Pete for getting stuck into this gem.
Well done Pete.
I'm sure some of them have, but which?? and when?? and by who??
Go on, Rob, spill the beans. Hard facts are what's needed, as usual.
Btw, I cleaned Frayed Nerve last night (a bit of an undertaking!), all expect the final groove, which should be a formality and there's good gear just below. All ready for on-sighters, safe but fluttery.
(Caveats apply; I tried to clean more than just the holds I would need, but if you're a 5'5" climber who climbs grit in exactly the same way as I do you'll be ok.)
This what I hate! It's a discussion that's been going round and round for years and years.
If people want to say with clarity that something has been repeated/climbed whatever, why won't they say so?
I've never understood the idea behind 'dark horses'. They only rear up when it's time for a counter claim.
Which have been repeated Rob? It's really helpful for future ascentionists to know whether a route's grade (if nothing else) is close to the mark. In the list that Readza gave above, almost all the grades are questionable.
I still reckon that Pete's ascent is the second ascent, occam's razor and all that.
Cheers mate, he did do it after falling off though. Brilliant sequence on Script - equally as good as Entropy's Jaw, if not better!
<Or Sidewinder or Steps or Gillted.>
I think Steps had an ascent a few years ago from somebody called Neil Foster, whoever he is.
Does a repeat ascent of ones own route really count as a second ascent?
Ha! I'd forgotten that small detail - which explains the route name.
That's a relief. Any recommendations for something inexplicably unrepeated despite being well-protected and apparently soft for E2?
> Does a repeat ascent of ones own route really count as a second ascent?
Actually I did lead the whole thing twice - originally starting up the wide crack on the right, and returning a few days later to add an independent start (whilst under sustained attack from a million midges).
As for Mr Parsons coming on here and spilling the beans about my favourite band, that really was quite uncalled for...
hi all, nice to see your having fun with the vid we did.
I think strain station deserves much more attention, despite the rubbish fall, the climbing is relativly straight forward. 2nd acsent or not, it was a great route and has the classic grit exposure, more vids to follow soon, so watch this space.
check my gallery for a pic of jellyfish at hen cloud from today, sadly seb who took the shot was also the only spotter, so i rather he run down and spot then take pictures. but credit to seb who swiftly followed on up behind me and to dom that onsighted it tonight.
Cool video! Looks exciting, you should at least wear a hat. You look awfully familiar, did I climb with you at Seynes and the Ardeche spring 2010? If you're the same Pete I hope all is well and your trip to Font was good! Cheers, Eivind
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