In reply to John Ww: I spent a year at Dresden Uni and managed some climbing.
Small protection was single tape with a single overhand knot in it to put in the crack and doubled over tape knot to clip.
Go up through the sizes of dyneema cord (normally double) with a barrel knot.
8mm+ normal static cord as above
Very large protection could be made by tying a monkey's fist knot, but the skill is in getting it all tight enough.
Some sort of plastic "proddler" is useful for threading some of the houglass threads.
Don't think I would ever have felt comfortable falling onto any of the gear (and I didn't).