UKC

The Pou-brothers' Orbayu, a contender for the hardest multi pitch in the world, on the West face of Naranjo de Bulnes, Asturia, Spain, has been repeated by Nico Favresse and Adam Pustelnik.
First the route was done by Nicolas, who lead all pitches and the next day Adam did the same. They are both...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63604

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Shotgun the 6a pitch.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Blimey

If this is meant to be a contender for the hardest multi-pitch climb in the world, it looked pretty unconvincing in the video.

In reply to mentzturbator: Pitch 5: 8c+/ 9a, 37m and 2 new bolts for the free variation. A first section of around 7c+/8a of technical climbing, a bouldery sequence of 8A+/B (boulder), and a final section on monos and two finger pockets at around 8b (sport). The first and last sections are protected by copperheads, pitons and small wires sunken in by potential falls of up to 20-25m.


your right, must be easy

In reply to Jiduvah: I just reckon that to label a route 'The Most Difficult Big Wall in the World' is a pretty big call. Then to post a video with a bunch of staged falls and some rather unconvincing footage of its difficulty doesn't exactly help its cause.

I bet there are a stack of other climbs around the world that are more worthy contenders for such a title.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: like, uuuh... Long Hope?

In reply to mentzturbator:


Yes, and these guys have pretty much done them all, so i think they may know what they are on about. Though there may be a case of overgrading here. We'll have to wait for Nico's and co press release to find out more.

In the meantime, here is what 'the Pou' have done so far up to last summer (C&P'ed from their site):

- “Murciana” 8a (5.13b)/500m on sight. In the Naranjo de Bulnes (Spain)

- “El Pilar del Cantabrico” 8 a+/500 m. (5.13d/500m) The first one in Free Climbing in the day, in June, 1997, by the rope made up of Eneko and Iker Pou.

- “The Great Canadian Knife” 8 a+/800 m (5.13d/500m). In unclimbable massif of Yukon- Canada. August- September 2000. After having made all the difficult 7º and 8º grade pitches, we went back without getting the top due to the bad weather. First repetition attempt by Iker and Eneko Pou.

- Silbergeier” 8b+/200m. (5.14a/200m) Switzerland, August 2002. 4th worldwide repetition by the rope made up of Iker and Eneko Pou.

- “El Niño” 8b/850m (5.13d/850m). Yosemite- El Capitan- USA... May –June 2003. 2nd worldwide repetition by the rope made up of Iker and Eneko Pou.

- “Zunbeltz” 8b+/500m (5.14a/500m). Picos de Europa- Spain. First in Free Climbing by the rope made up of Iker and Eneko Pou in September- October 2003.

- “Bravo Les Filles” 8b/600m (5.13d/600m). Tsaranoro- Madagascar. The hardest Big Wall of Africa. The first Free Climbing ascent by Eneko and Iker Pou in July 2004.

- “The Nose” 8b+/1100m.(5.14a/1100m) Yosemite- El Capitán. We climbed 32 pitches of 34 in free climbing. September- October 2004.

- “Totem Pole” 7b+/ 70 m (5.12c/70m). Tasmania- Australia. The first Spanish Free Climbing by the rope made up of Eneko and Iker Pou in February 2005.

- “Eternal Flame” 8a/1100 metros (5.13b/1100m) Trango Tower (Himalaya).We open the “Pou Brothers Variant”8 a to 6000 metres. July-August 2005

- “Franco-Argentina”6c+/1300m. (5.11c/1300m) “Fitz Roy” (Patagonia). Attempt in five times to 40 metres to the top. January-February 2006

- "Quinto Imperio” 8b/500 m. (5.13d/500m) Naranjo de Bulnes (Spain). The first in free climbing by the rope made up of .Eneko and Iker Pou. Jun 2006

“Lurgorri” 8c+/250 metros (5.14c/250m). Naranjo de Bulnes (Spain). We open the route and did the first free climbing. First 8c+ in Big-Wall in the world.

- “Supercanaleta” 6c-M6-90º/2000 metros. “Fitz roy” (Patagonia). Second Spanish clima. January 2007

- "Beneitiers” 6c/500 metros. Mocho (Patagonia). January 2007

- "Corredor Amy” 60º-5 /450 m. Aguja Guillaumet (Patagonia). February 2007

- "Claro de Luna” 6c/850 metros. Aguja st,exupery (Patagonia) Attempt to 150 metres to the top. February 2007

- "Vela y Viento” 7b/700 metros (5.12c/700). Aguja Mermot (Patagonia). Attempt to 100 metros to the top starting in Chalten. February 2007.

- “Schatila” 7c/300 m. Ratikon (suiza). July 2007

- “New age” 8a/250 metros. Ratikon (suiza). July 2007

- “Freedom” 8b/300 metros. Rote wand (Austria).The first ascent in one day. July 2007

- “Bleau Lagune”7b+/250m, “Legaxy” 7b+/320m, “Batman”7b+/250m, “Cleoplatra”7c/270m. All the routes on sight in Wendenstock. July 2007.

- “ Elefhantenohr” 7c+/320m. Wenden (Suiza). July 2007

- “Azken Paradizua” 7a-M6-90º/600m. Zerua Peak, Antartica Peninsula. We did ten days in a wind-boat, crossing famous Cabo de Hornos and Drake Sea, and after we climbed a new Peak that we called Zerua Peak (Sky Peak) doing “Azken Paradizua” new route. December and January 2007-08.

- “Astroman” 7a/400m. Washington Colum. Yosemite. California. May 2008.

- “Regular to Half Dome” 7b/850m. Yosemite. California. May 2008.

- “Pachamama” 5/1.000 m. Morro Von Ronsen 5.450 m. Argentinan Andes. April 2009. First climb to the South Face of the mountain- New Route.

- “Vitoria-Gasteiz” 85º/600m. Aguja Negra 5.350 m. Argentinan Andes. April 2009. First climb to the South Face of the mountain- New Route.

- “Gure Etxea” 60º/900 m. Chañi Grande 5.896 m- Punta Ibañez 5.888 m and Traverse to the Big Chañi. Argentinan Andes. April 2009. First climb on the north face of Punta Ibañez- New Route.

- “Marcados por el Chañi” 85º/650 m. Chañi Chico 5.570 m. Argentinan Andes. April 2009. First glaciar ascensión to the south face of the mountain- New Route.

- “Orbayu” 8c+/9a/ 500 m. Naranjo de Bulnes 2.504 m. Picos de Europa. Spain. New Route in combination with a old one and the first ascensión in free climbing. A3 in artificial climbing. The hardest free climbing proposal in big wall of the world.

- “Solo Per Vechi Guierrieri” 8c/150m,

-“Pan Aroma” 8c/500m

-“Zahir” 8b+/300m. Es la primera vez que se escalaban tres vias tan difíciles en el mismo verano.

In reply to mentzturbator:

If there's "a stack" of them then presumably you can name a few? Apart from Tommy Caldwell's unfinished Dawn Wall project, how many big walls have a crux pitch estimated at 8c+ or higher?

There are undoubtedly several that are far more sustained though, such as Caldwell's free ascents of Dihedral Wall and Magic Mushroom. So it depends on how the "difficulty" is being measured/prioritized.

In reply to Mr Lopez:

Blimey, freeing The Nose (nearly) and Eternal Flame in less than a year - pretty handy these boys then!

In reply to mentzturbator:

Who cares if it is the most difficult in the world or not? Still... is amazing what they've done, and it doesn't look easy to me! Just because there are a few bolt doesn't mean is easy many british climbers tend to think so....

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

8c+/ 9a protected in part by wires and copperheads...
I'm just going to have a lie down after thinking about that!